88 22re Clutch replacement

[PatchworkYota]

I'm planning to replace my clutch and flywheel this weekend (at 182k miles). The Haynes manual says to drain the tranny, but the factory service manual says not to. Anyone here do it without draining the tranny?

Also, last time I drained and refilled the transmission oil, I used 75w90 gear oil per the haynes manual, but it seems awful thick when cold. Anyone running lighter oil in their tranny.

Just hoping someone with experience can pass along some wisdom to save me some time/$.

[87_SR5]

Originally Posted by PatchworkYota

I'm planning to replace my clutch and flywheel this weekend (at 182k miles). The Haynes manual says to drain the tranny, but the factory service manual says not to. Anyone here do it without draining the tranny?

Also, last time I drained and refilled the transmission oil, I used 75w90 gear oil per the haynes manual, but it seems awful thick when cold. Anyone running lighter oil in there tranny.

Just hoping someone with experience can pass along some wisdom to save me some time/$.

I did it without draining the tranny (or transfer case)....just make sure you keep it level on the way out. I got it tipped a little and some oil came out the top where the shifters go, but it was no big deal. Just check and refill the oil once you get it back in.

After you get the driveline(s) off, and the tranny crossmember out, you can tilt down the tranny w/ the engine to reach the 2 top bell housing bolts. Those seemed the hardest to get...but with a couple long extensions, you can sit back at the end of the tranny and reach right up and get them (same way to put them back in). Just don't tilt the engine too far, as I did. My already rusting exhaust cracked right at the manifold....so now i have brand new exhaust

Also, take a look at your rear main seal while you have it apart. Mine looked good and wasn't leaking, but if yours is, nows the best time to change it. Changing the rear main seal doesn't require you to drop the pan, so its just a matter of popping the old out and tapping the new one in.

Have fun

[peterng]

I'm eager to see cause I'm about to do the same job. Funny you mentioned the thick oil cause I already drained it and I was thinking the same thing. Sorry no help from me but I'd be eager to see any tips that come along in relation to the job.

One question I would have is what brand of clutch to buy. I was always disappointed at how easily my clutch would slip in 4 high. Does a heavy duty clutch last longer or grip more?
Thanks,
Pete

[PatchworkYota]

Thanks, at least I know it's possible without making too much of a mess. (I will probably still make a mess). I'll go ahead and pick up the seal just in case I need it.

Originally Posted by peterng

I'm eager to see cause I'm about to do the same job. Funny you mentioned the thick oil cause I already drained it and I was thinking the same thing. Sorry no help from me but I'd be eager to see any tips that come along in relation to the job.

One question I would have is what brand of clutch to buy. I was always disappointed at how easily my clutch would slip in 4 high. Does a heavy duty clutch last longer or grip more?
Thanks,
Pete

I bought a fairly cheap clutch and flywheel set ($140) because I'm poor. I'll let you know if I have any problems with it.

[87_SR5]

Another thing I forgot to mention was the trick (at least I never saw it before) for getting the pilot bearing out. I think it is in the Haynes manual, but I overlooked it when I first read it.

Pack grease into the space behind the pilot bearing. Get a punch (or anything the size of the pilot bearing hole) and once you get enough grease in, put the punch in and give it a tap with a hammer. The pressure from the grease will pop the bearing right out. I never saw this before until my friend showed me. I think I saw it in the Haynes manual after I had the job done.

[PatchworkYota]

All done (if anyone is still viewing this thread). Just in time too - it's snowing! Took me a day and a half, but for having no experience, that's not too bad. I had the Haynes manual for the bearing trick. Took a few tries, but worked. I'd had a much more difficult time if it wasn't for your advice with the extensions. Thanks a lot. The new clutch is much smoother. The old one, although still functioning most of the time, was missing a huge chunk of it's surface area. My advice for future viewers of this thread - have a helper guide the socket to the top two bolts by reaching through the wheel wells, start the same two bolts by reaching through the wheel wells when you put them back in, use a transmission jack (I'd probably have injured myself without it), I found it useful to use 1/4" extentions through a number of the bellhousing bolt holes to guide the transmission into place.......and be carefull about twisting off those sway bar bolts, it added a few more hours to an already long project.