HELP! 92 toyota stalled while driving, wont start now.
I need help. I finally got my 92 toyota running after it stalled on me once and after replacing the fuel pump, it ran again. I drove it around for a few days, and last night while i was heading home, it stalled on me while moving and my foot was on the gas. It did not sputter or anything, it just cut out without warning. So i pulled over to the side and tried to start it again, and it turns over but wont start. So i had to leave it overnight, and when i went back to look at it this morning, it still is acting the same.
i pulled the coil wire off of the distributor and held it next to metal and turned it over, and we had no spark. I took off the coil and looked into the front where the wire goes, and it was very corroded. So i cleaned that out with sand paper and cleaned the two posts off on the front of the coil too. the truck still didnt start. Im hoping it isnt the igniter, even though with my luck it probably is...
Can anyone shed some light on this? Could it be something simple that i overlooked? I actually took today off of work just to get this figured out Any help is appreciated. Thanks.h
BTW, timing chain is brand new, spark plugs and wires are brand new also. Nothing was replaced as far as the distributor cap goes, but that still wouldnt explain why i wasnt getting spark from the coil.
Id say get a new coil and try that since you dont have any spark from it. I just put a new Accel coil on my 92', and that works well. It didnt need a coil, but i had the accel, and just decided to put it on. The accels are like 30$ around here at least. It wouldnt hurt to give it a try.
ID also look at the main fuse block in the engine compartment and check all those fuses. Thats just a suggestion id take a look at.
-Adam-
__________________ 1992 Toyota pickup 4x4. 3" body lift, Skyjacker Nitro 8000's, ICW alloy rims, 31X10.50" tires, K&N drop-in w/ airbox Mod. Sony Xplod head unit, MTX & kicker front speakers, BAJA and APC lights up front, Accel SS coil
thank you for the reply and advice. I guess your right, even though the coil didnt work after i cleaned it off, it still could be the problem. ill check that out.
I'd look at the ignitor, should be under the coil. Common problem for toyotas around that age. If you know anybody with a similar truck, borrow theirs. Some cars may have same part.
you can test a coil with an ohm meter. try autozones site for specs also if you need an ignitor i have 2 of the kind with the round coil that i could spare. they are used but i know worked on the donor engine i bought. you can test the ignitor with an ohm meter too try a volt meter on your coil contacts to see if the ignitor is getting voltage and also look in the distributor cap at your pick up coil if its unravvled or looks toated that will do the same thing you can also test this with the ohm meter.
thanks guys. my cousin was supposed to pick up my truck for me (he owns a flatbed) but he didnt end up picking it up tonight like he said he would. But im glad that he hasnt, because even though its 3 am here, i feel like going down and tinkering with it. Luckily its only about 6 blocks away from my house, so i could even walk to it.
i think i might bring my volt/ohm meter down with me and check the connections. I have a chiltons manual that my brother gave me with the truck, so that should help as far as the specifications go. I should have just ordered a coil today for 35 bucks so i could pick it up tomorrow. But i might stop at the local junkyard(s) and see if they have an igniter and coil for cheap and slap that on.
BTW, i when i was talking to the guy at advance auto and asking him if they tested coils, he said that they do not test the coil, but they can test the control module. Im not exactly sure what he meant by control module. Was that their technical term for "igniter" or are they talking about that little black square box on the fenderwell right next to the coil? Im not sure. That little black box is about 1.5x1.5 inches and has a white + mark on the top of it. Does anyone know what that thing is?
thanks guys. my cousin was supposed to pick up my truck for me (he owns a flatbed) but he didnt end up picking it up tonight like he said he would. But im glad that he hasnt, because even though its 3 am here, i feel like going down and tinkering with it. Luckily its only about 6 blocks away from my house, so i could even walk to it.
i think i might bring my volt/ohm meter down with me and check the connections. I have a chiltons manual that my brother gave me with the truck, so that should help as far as the specifications go. I should have just ordered a coil today for 35 bucks so i could pick it up tomorrow. But i might stop at the local junkyard(s) and see if they have an igniter and coil for cheap and slap that on.
BTW, i when i was talking to the guy at advance auto and asking him if they tested coils, he said that they do not test the coil, but they can test the control module. Im not exactly sure what he meant by control module. Was that their technical term for "igniter" or are they talking about that little black square box on the fenderwell right next to the coil? Im not sure. That little black box is about 1.5x1.5 inches and has a white + mark on the top of it. Does anyone know what that thing is?
Thanks again for the help guys.
that would be the ignitor/spark control module did you open the distributo cap (2 screws,not the 12mm bolt) and look under at the pickup coil?
I think i found the problem. I towed my truck home last night with the help of a friend and my dads truck. I just hooked up a chain to the front and away i went.
Well, i was just out in the yard and took the distributor cap off and then tried cranking the truck over, while my girlfriend watched the rotor for me to see if it turned. It did not. So... now im sure that its just the timing chain that slipped. It is a brand new chain according to my brother who did a complete tune up to it before he gave it to me, but im wondering if maybe the tensioner is worn and let some slack into the chain?
Is there some sort of thing about changing the timing chain on a toyota that maybe was overlooked? Is there some special way it needs to be done to keep stuff like this from happening, or did i just have a bit of bad luck with the tensioner?
I think i found the problem. I towed my truck home last night with the help of a friend and my dads truck. I just hooked up a chain to the front and away i went.
Well, i was just out in the yard and took the distributor cap off and then tried cranking the truck over, while my girlfriend watched the rotor for me to see if it turned. It did not. So... now im sure that its just the timing chain that slipped. It is a brand new chain according to my brother who did a complete tune up to it before he gave it to me, but im wondering if maybe the tensioner is worn and let some slack into the chain?
Is there some sort of thing about changing the timing chain on a toyota that maybe was overlooked? Is there some special way it needs to be done to keep stuff like this from happening, or did i just have a bit of bad luck with the tensioner?
dude if the rotor isnt turning maybe the chain itself broke which is not good at all. that or maybe the distributor broke sounds kinda fishy, id take the valve cover off and see if the chain is still on the sproket if not you might need more than just a new chain because yu may have bent a valve if it did break or slip off not to mention alot of other things . if the chain slipped a tooth or a few teeth it would still turn the rotor it would just run reall reall bad or backfire but youd still have spark. its always a good idea to change the complete timing set (chain tensioner , gears , and guides.) if the rotor isnt turning you have problems way worse than just ignition. although if you brother did not tighten the cam sproket bolt maybe it came loose and the distributor drive gear cam loose?? heck i dunno just trying to ad insight , pull the valve cover and look at your chain.
yeah im probably gonna do that in a little while (its 1:30 a.m., but i have a huge light stand and nothing else to do...)
i thought about the chain actually being broke after i posted that. I thought to myself, it it wasnt broken, the rotor still would have turned.
But what could make a brand new timing chain break? I could understand a belt breaking, because its soft material, but a chain?
also, i was under the impression that this motor was a non-interference motor? If a valve or valves are bent, im gonna be pissed! That would really suck.
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