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Old 01-19-2005, 10:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question mileage out of a 3VZE 3.0L clutch? is it just the slave?

I have a 1992 extra cab 4WD V6 truck w/ 135k on it. I love it, save for the semi-anemic power (will retrofit 3" exhaust tubing for air intake tube from MAF to manifold when I get a chance, and when I get the cash, maybe some downey headers...) and infinite turning radius. I noticed sunday night driving back from the DC motorcycle show that in 5th gear my clutch was starting to slip if I stomped on the gas. running about 3000rpm, i could stomp it, get it up to about 4000rpm, and if i let off the gas slightly (lowering torque input to clutch, duh) the clutch would fully re-engage. i'm pretty sure my foot wasn't touching the clutch pedal, but not positive. i got it to do the same thing on the way to the dealer yesterday to pickup a timing belt, water pump, seals, etc. What's wierd is, I couldn't get it to slip on the way home or in the 30+ miles I drove on highways last night. Duh, do I need a new clutch? Also, how many miles have those of you been getting out of your clutch w/ the 3.0 V6 and 4WD? I got 180k out of my 1st car (Dad's rotted to Hell '76 Celica GT, original clutch) thanks in advance for the help. also, should I consider getting a centerforce clutch instead of OE? (my cost for the OE pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing is about $220) I need to check prices at summit, but i'm running out of time. it's also important to note that I'm about to embark on my 2nd cross country journey from DC to Mammoth, CA (i'm a perpetual studies college student just booted out of Virginia Tech and a professional ski bum and instructor...) hopefully by saturday or so. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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135K miles is pretty good for a truck clutch. You obviously know how to drive a stick. I have known several people who would be unable to get even close to that mileage. Is there any evidence that any aftermarket clutch will last longer for you than the original? Will you still be driving the truck 136K miles from now? I'd probably go with the less expensive option.
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Cool

If the original clutch got 135,000 miles, I wouldn't be worrying about oem quality LoL!
Sounds to me like you need one.

If you're really pissed about 3vz-e's lack of power, do some seirous valve train enlargement, or retrofit the DOHC 3vz-fe heads on the 3vz-e block. That's good for 40hp there, get those ported and polished before they go in and you're looking at some seriously large power gains.
Ongoing project

There are a bunch of problems to overcome! The 3vz-E pistons only have two indentions for it's two valves, while a 3vz-fe has four. They havn't finished their project yet, but I really have to wonder if a 3vz-e ECU can handle the 40hp to possibly 70hp extra. I don't know if It can cope.
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Old 01-22-2005, 10:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Question thanks, i'm going to start upping power monday...

I went ahead and ordered the centerforce clutch (stage 1) from summit and had it next day air'd to my house in blacksburg. it was withing a couple bucks of getting the OEM disc, pressure plate, and TOB at wholesale, surprisingly, so I figured 40% more clamping force was worth it, and my friend's been very happy w/ his centerforce in his drag car. currently i'm snowed in here in northern VA, 2 hrs sleep last night and finally a nap today... still trying to button up the front end of the motor after a timing belt/water pump/crank seal/cam seal replacement. note to self and others: if it ain't broke, don't fix it! besides, it's a toyota! doing the cam seals required removing the intake manifold (major pain in the ass, fyi) and then the valve covers to get a fuck up wrench (metric adjustable) on the hex part of the cam w/ a 6' piece of pipe on the end so that i could get the cam gear bolt loose. finally, i got it w/ help from a nieghbor. at least the valve cover gaskets needed replacement anyways... she's nearly done, but i left my manual in blacksburg and am working "in the dark" i got the cam timing spot on, she's purring, but i can't figure out how to rebolt the accessory freewheel pulleys...????
when i put the 2 pulleys on the accessory spindle that comes off the aluminum plate that bolts over the timing belt, the studs have 5mm of shank left, so i can't thread the nuts all the way down and tighten the wheels to the hub. wtf? did i forget a secret part? the pulleys look lined up, so ????

as far as power goes, that sounds like an awesome option for down the road (DOHC rocks) right now, i'm going to put the 2" or 3" PVC piece in the airbox before the filter w/ threads so that i can put the plug in it if i add a snorkel later, it'll still be watertight. next week i plan on doing the intake tube mod (removing the water seperator and teh restrictive tubing and replacing it w/ a 3" piece of muffler tubing w/ 2 NPT fittings as described on this site or another.
has anyone done this mod? do you get appreciably better gas mileage or power? i'm asking because i'm about to embark on a 3000+ mile trip, and if it's worth it, i'll do it before i leave to save gas. (i currently get 18 mpg if i'm lucky on the highway, but will be fully laden w/ my race motorcycle, spare parts, mountain bike, extra clothes, etc etc etc in my truck on my way from VA back to mammoth, CA to teach skiing the rest of the season.) my friend at the dealer said there are noticable hp and gas mileage gains if you spend the $200+ and get the K&N FIPK or whatever it's called. i'd rather spend $20 and make it myself, thank you. well, thanks for the help, let me know how to put the pulleys back on (is there a spacer or something under my truck hiding that i don't see that'll give me enough room so that the nuts will still have threads left to engage and room to pinch the pulleys on the idler hub?)
also, if you've had any experience w/ intake mods, pros and cons, new gas mileage vs what you used to get, etc, that'd be great too. i did put a factory replacement K&N in my truck and realized a slight hp increase, although I haven't bothered to benchmark the differnece in gas mileage due to the K&N vs. a dirty stock filter yet...
thanks again, (i'll quit typing and get greasy again, never should have taken typing in hs..)
Dave
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What did you do with the clutch fan??
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Old 01-23-2005, 02:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i found it and re-installed it, duh. thanx.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Racing a Hawk still? Hope you're in Modern Vintage, since the dang SV650s have taken the fun out of LW superbike for me (FZR400)!!

I hear Willow is a fun track, have fun out there!
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i pulled 207k miles out of my 89 22r toyota pickup engine... and that's only cause my friend was messin around and burnt the clutch a bit.. you'll do fine on what you buy
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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My dad's '89 2wd with the 22re has passed 230k and still has the original clutch. However my '89 4wd with the 22re wore out at 110000k. Those toyota clutches are tough.
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