Hey guys whats up. I recently posted about my truck dying on me while driving and after inspection, have noticed that my timing chain broke. My brother just did a complete tune up on it ~500 miles ago, including the timing chain. The old chain had worn a hole through the cover and coolant leaked into the oil, so when he changed the chain, he also had the hole welded and changed the oil again. It ran fine after that.
Well anyway, the main point of what i am getting at is the brand new timing chain that was installed a few weeks back has broken already. Now, i was wondering what could have caused this? The only things i can think of are: 1. faulty chain, 2. bad tensioner, 3. other bad parts or some foreign object...
would my valves have been damaged? also, how hard is it to change the timing chain on these motors? Ive changed 3 timing belts before on honda's that ive owned, so i know that it can be a real pain... but i pretty much know how these things work so i have a pretty good idea of where to start. My has changed a few 22r chains before and told me i have to remove the radiator, fan, belts, valve cover, take out the top bolt of the alternator and move it aside, and obviously i need to remove the crank pully bolt. Is this really that hard of a task?
Thanks for any information. I really hope i didnt damage any valves. I should probably just buy a new timing kit, huh?
anything thats attached to or blocking access to the front cover will have to be removed. it usually takes a tech about 3 hrs. to do with a lift and impact wrenches, etc. so it will probably take longer done at home.as far as damage to working parts in the head, i believe toyota has a metal divider between cams gears and valve train. so you will probably be ok there.i hope. I'm not sure about that. as far as cause? could be faulty chain, but they are pretty sturdy. or tensioner like you said. or maybe something was preventing cam shafts from turning.. who knows. when you open it up u should be able to make a determination. there should be a sticky on this forum with engine schematics to look at and help u.. good luck http://members.cardomain.com/mr2bad
Hey guys whats up. I recently posted about my truck dying on me while driving and after inspection, have noticed that my timing chain broke. My brother just did a complete tune up on it ~500 miles ago, including the timing chain. The old chain had worn a hole through the cover and coolant leaked into the oil, so when he changed the chain, he also had the hole welded and changed the oil again. It ran fine after that.
Well anyway, the main point of what i am getting at is the brand new timing chain that was installed a few weeks back has broken already. Now, i was wondering what could have caused this? The only things i can think of are: 1. faulty chain, 2. bad tensioner, 3. other bad parts or some foreign object...
would my valves have been damaged? also, how hard is it to change the timing chain on these motors? Ive changed 3 timing belts before on honda's that ive owned, so i know that it can be a real pain... but i pretty much know how these things work so i have a pretty good idea of where to start. My has changed a few 22r chains before and told me i have to remove the radiator, fan, belts, valve cover, take out the top bolt of the alternator and move it aside, and obviously i need to remove the crank pully bolt. Is this really that hard of a task?
Thanks for any information. I really hope i didnt damage any valves. I should probably just buy a new timing kit, huh?
I just did this last week. My chain was starting to go and was beginning to wear a groove in the timing cover (due to original plastic guide breaking).
As far as how difficult it is, not really that bad, just takes time to take everything apart and put it back together. Remove the radiator, fan w/ pulley, A/C (if you have it...i don't), Alt (I took it all the way out, but you dont have to), Power Steering pump (after unbolted, it will swing out of the way far enough). Remove the valve cover, distributor. then you are ready for the crank pulley bolt. If you have an impact, use it. I just used a big breaker bar...put the truck in highest gear (if you have an Auto, maybe someone can tell you how to do it)...then I blocked up the tires so the truck wouldn't roll and just worked on it until it came loose...it took awhile but I finally got it.
Now, since your timing chain broke, I don't know about your valves...I have heard that the 22R 22RE engines can cause damage to the valves if the chain breaks...and I have heard that it won't hurt the valves....someone on here will clearify for sure.
Before you remove the timing chain cover, set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC)
After the timing cover is off, its just replacing the chain, sprockets, tensioner, and guides. You have to make sure you get the the crankshaft in the correct alignment with the cam shaft, since your chain broke.
For a kit, I purchase one off eBay from the seller "engnbldr" (i think that is right)...He sells a great kit with the metal guide (and all the gaskets you will need). I heard about him from many people on this forum, so I think his kits can be trusted. I think the kit was around $55. His kits come with a warranty too
Another thing, I removed my oil pan to get the plastic guide out, but if you probably won't have to if the original guide was removed already.
Someone will help you with making sure the cam and the crankshaft are aligned right. You just have to make sure the crankshaft is at TDC and not 360 degrees off...
For a kit, I purchase one off eBay from the seller "engnbldr" (i think that is right)...He sells a great kit with the metal guide (and all the gaskets you will need). I heard about him from many people on this forum, so I think his kits can be trusted. I think the kit was around $55. His kits come with a warranty too
I have 75,000 on my 92, and need to do change it before it commits suicide. Is the chain and guide you get from engnbldr any better than the original? I wouldn't want to change my timing chain every 75,000 miles on the road to 500,000.
wow, thanks 87_SR5. That was a lot of info. It is very cold up here in vermont right now, its about 5 degrees outside without the windchill factor. And also seeing as how i have to work a mandatory full weekend this week, ill be working straight through every day until at least next saturday... who knows maybe ill get next sunday off
It seems like the only time i have to work on this is in the morning for 1-2 hours and at night if i can get myself up to braving the cold and setting up my lights. So this process is going slowly but surely. I just wish i had a warm garage and a full day off to work on my truck. Id be able to get it done in no time. Working outside in the snow sucks!
well, thanks again. Ill check out that guy on ebay.
I have 75,000 on my 92, and need to do change it before it commits suicide. Is the chain and guide you get from engnbldr any better than the original? I wouldn't want to change my timing chain every 75,000 miles on the road to 500,000.
Thanks,,,
The chain is single full roller chain like the original, the tensioner in the kit is OEM, and the passenger side guide is OEM. The drivers side guide is not OEM....the OEM is plastic like the passenger side. The drivers side guide is metal, so it will not break like the original plastic guide.
It says the gears are fully hardened, so I don't know if they are like the originals.
Here it is directly from the auction page:
Quote:
These FEATURE our EXCLUSIVE 3 year, no mileage limit, free replacement warrenty against failure for ANY reason! This is the whole SET, ready to go. ALL of the front end gaskets and seals are included. The picture is accurate, it is THIS kit is EXACTLY like one we took a pic of...we add the front end gaskets & seals.
Fits ALL Toyota Pickup & 4 Runners with the 22R, 22RE, 22REC, or 22RTEC engine, 2.4L SOHC, 1985 to 1995.
This kit is as complete as you can buy, it features the fully hardened upper and lower gears, not just the teeth of the gear. This comes with new hardened shaft OEM tensioner, genuine single FULL roller chain, BRAND NEW STEEL BACKED driver's side guiderail, OEM style passenger side guide.
The timing chain (well actually the chain wasn't the problem) on my '87 lasted 165,000 miles....probably would have lasted longer if the drivers side guide didn't break. I caught it just in time...probably not much longer and the chain would have worn a hole clear thru in my cover....
i'm pretty sure that the 22re is an iterference motor so it would hurt to make sure nothing is damage. i know it would suck to get all that done to find out it did hurt something
Another thing to look out for is when you bolt the oil pump and water pump onto the front of the timing cover, be very careful which bolts go in which holes. I know for sure that at least one water pump bolt hole is directly in front of the chain and if you put a bolt in that's too long it hits the chain and will cause failure. There may be 1 or 2 more similar bolt holes.
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Santa Cruz, CA
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i was jsut reading all your posts on here and have a few questions. My 92 22re has 164,890 miles on it, and im wondering if its days are limited with the timing chain. I dont want to get somewhere and have it break on me and destroy the valves and such. How do i know if it was ever done before, are there any symptoms before it goes out? Im just wondering how much itd be for a shop to put a new one on? theres a toyota specialty shop here in york that sells parts, and works on toyotas, and sells a few used trucks as well. A family business that seems to be ran pretty well. Id try to attempt it myself, but id be afraid id screw it up and cause more probs. Just wondering. thanks
-Adam-
__________________ 1992 Toyota pickup 4x4. 3" body lift, Skyjacker Nitro 8000's, ICW alloy rims, 31X10.50" tires, K&N drop-in w/ airbox Mod. Sony Xplod head unit, MTX & kicker front speakers, BAJA and APC lights up front, Accel SS coil
Another thing to look out for is when you bolt the oil pump and water pump onto the front of the timing cover, be very careful which bolts go in which holes. I know for sure that at least one water pump bolt hole is directly in front of the chain and if you put a bolt in that's too long it hits the chain and will cause failure. There may be 1 or 2 more similar bolt holes.
i was jsut reading all your posts on here and have a few questions. My 92 22re has 164,890 miles on it, and im wondering if its days are limited with the timing chain. I dont want to get somewhere and have it break on me and destroy the valves and such. How do i know if it was ever done before, are there any symptoms before it goes out? Im just wondering how much itd be for a shop to put a new one on? theres a toyota specialty shop here in york that sells parts, and works on toyotas, and sells a few used trucks as well. A family business that seems to be ran pretty well. Id try to attempt it myself, but id be afraid id screw it up and cause more probs. Just wondering. thanks
-Adam-
From what I have heard, there aren't major issues with the timing chains on these engines (as far as breaking...but they stretch). The problem with the whole set up is the original drivers side guide...because it is plastic and eventually breaks, causing the chain to eventually wear thru the timing chain cover.
You can take your valve cover off and look down the the timing chain. If you look down the drivers side, you will be able to see if the guide is still there or not (unless it was already done and replaced with a metal-backed guide). When I was told that the noise I was hearing could be my timing chain, I took the valve cover off and checked it out. There was no guide and I could see the grooves starting in the cover:
You can see right below where the head meets the timing chain cover that a groove is starting to show. There should be a guide there.
As far as symptoms, I only knew I had a problem because I was hearing a rattling noise...and it wasn't the valves. So I was hoping is was only the timing chain and not a spun bearing or anything that major. I don't know the expected life span (miles) of these timing chains...I am sure someone does.
I don't know how much a shop would charge to do it. The whole project was not that tough. Not really any special tools needed. Probably the toughest part was removing/installing the oil pan (which isn't required). Because the old guide broke into pieces (several, several pieces ) and was floating around in the oil pan, I wanted to take the oil pan off to clean it out. Since my truck is 4wd, in order to remove the oil pan, the motor mounts had to be undone, and then the engine had to be blocked up as far as it would go. This would allow enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the front diff. It was a tight fit but I got it off and on okay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alltrac165
Another thing to look out for is when you bolt the oil pump and water pump onto the front of the timing cover, be very careful which bolts go in which holes. I know for sure that at least one water pump bolt hole is directly in front of the chain and if you put a bolt in that's too long it hits the chain and will cause failure. There may be 1 or 2 more similar bolt holes.
For this, make up a cardboard template. I just used the this site: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml and there is a picture of the timing chain cover with all the bolt locations (for the bolts holding the cover to the block, not any bolts for the oil pump or water pump). There are 18 total bolts holding the cover on. The bolts are different lengths, so a template will keep you from getting them confused. Just sketch out the timing cover shape on the cardboard, then poke holes were the bolts are suppose to be. Stick each bolt in the correct spot as soon as out remove it. It sure helped me a lot.
I didnt get alot of time to work on my truck today, but i did notice when i was looking down into the timing chain area that the plastic guide that is there looks pretty new, so im suspecting that my brother replaced that too, ill have to ask him when i talk to him again. But what i noticed is that even though both plastic guides are there, the drivers side plastic guide is loose. Upon closer inspection, i noticed that it looked like there was a hole on the plastic guide where a bolt should have been holding it on, and i think that possibly the bolt wasnt tightened all the way and eventually worked itself back out and fell down to the bottom where it got caught and broke my chain.
So i think i at least know why the chain broke. Now i just have to get my parts and finish fixing it. Hopefully thats all i will have to do to it.
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1992 Toyota pickup 4x4. 3" body lift, Skyjacker Nitro 8000's, ICW alloy rims, 31X10.50" tires, K&N drop-in w/ airbox Mod. Sony Xplod head unit, MTX & kicker front speakers, BAJA and APC lights up front, Accel SS coil
great advice, I know this to be true also.
) and was floating around in the oil pan, I wanted to take the oil pan off to clean it out. Since my truck is 4wd, in order to remove the oil pan, the motor mounts had to be undone, and then the engine had to be blocked up as far as it would go. This would allow enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the front diff. It was a tight fit but I got it off and on okay.
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