Hey , first time on, been racking my brain for a while on this for a while. 89 4runner 3.0, starts great in the cold, or shade, but if it runs for a while it will not start again, if it is a hot day it will not start, if I bring it inside on a cold day it will not start, it cranks over fine. Get this it will start with a jump, be it from a booster pack or another car. i have replaced the coil, gas cap, plugs wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, charcoal cannister under the hood, blown out the fuel vent lines, and swapped out two batteries, the alternator is good, the starter is good. According to the local toyota dealer they couldn't find any trouble codes and there is no check engine light on. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks.
What is the total mileage? Have you ever done any service to the fuel injectors? Can you re-start after the engine cools down for a while? 30 min.s? 1 hr.? Have you observed the exhaust upon successfully re-starting? How long is "runs for a while"? Does it reach normal operating temp.? Any odor of raw fuel?
Thinking back on this, what does it do when it doesn't start? Does it rotate, but not turn over, or are you just hearing a clicking sound when you turn the ignition?
Oh, and its an automatic, right?
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Ok, when I mean after it runs for a while I mean up to operating temps, it will restart after it has cooled back down to "cold" which depends on the day and ambient temp. I have not done any injector work aside from running injector cleaner thru it. I just checked the timing and it was 15 degrees advanced, but that didn't help anything. Anyway, when I go to restart it it cranks over with no smell of gas from the exhaust, it is not flooding. I am starting to suspect it may be a vapor lock situation happening in the fuel vent line. Its the only thing I can reason out, it won't re-start without a booster pack because the fuel pump can't push hard enough on regulaer voltage to overcome the pressure. I have heard that fuel pumps need certain amperage to operate at optimum pressure, so would it reason that additional amps would boost the pressure? I have run it without the gas cap on, I don't think the problem lies on the tank end, I just had the tank out a month ago and re-did all the connections on the sending unit and tank, I know they are good. Thats enough for a moment. my brain hurts........
In addition, the started is known good, and when I said I ran it with the gas cap off, I mean it doensn't change a thing, still will not restart. Also, it turns over at normal speed, when warm, just doesn't wanna start, not even a chug out of it.
My car does the same.. I'm not sure about your motor, but on a 4AGE its heatsoak.. the starter on our motors is located just under the exhaust manifold, so when this gets really hot, so does the starter and it won't work till its gotten really cold. good thing I can jumpstart my car.. its a bitch to wait if you got an automatic.
Spark, fuel, air....those are the what mechanics check for.
Reading over the posts, my next check would be the fuel pump....I've heard of bad ones having problems when they get hot.
I'm not familiar with your engine, but most fuel pumps can be checked with a voltage amp and partner. (You can hear them turn on when the ignition is turned, so takes two people to troubleshoot.)
If that's fine, my next check would be the injectors. You'll have to take apart the top of the engine to get to them to check with, again, a voltage meter. (But I haven't heard of heat affecting them...when they go out or get clogged, temperature doesn't matter much!)
Good luck....keep plugging away at 'er (Git r done! I love that guy!)
i have now determined that there is no spark when it is warm. For example, last night the temp was 20 (F) today it warmed up to about 45 and the stupid thing wouldn't start without the booster pack. We tested the coil, even put a new one in, no dice. We tested the wires going to the ignitor, we found only one wire was hot (positive) when turning it over, and two of the other ones had weak grounds (not sure if they are even supposed to be grounds) I am starting to wonder if it is
About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes and auto tranny computer codes to see if a fault is registered.
To pull the ECU codes:
All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:
Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.
Any Public Library in your area would have the Factory service manual,Haynes,Chiltons,Mitchells,Clymers,Bentley and Toyota repair books.
1)buy a used one off e-bay
2)some Toyota dealerships may give you one or sell it for $10-20 (used) as most Toyota dealerships don't repair many old Toyotas and no longer need the service manual
3)some public libraries sell their old books as they are not in demand any longer
4)some free buy & sell classified papers,websites and bulletin boards may have some used ones for sale
5)some junk yards may have one laying around
6)some Toyota specialty garages may have one laying around and no longer use it as the vehicle may be too old and those mechanics probably have so much experience that they could publish their own factory service manual with corrections and "real world repair tips"
7)if someone has the FSM maybe they could scan all of the pages and post it on a site for all of us to download or view.
Sidney
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 243 000 KM
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