Hello fellas i need your help here with a fuel system problem that im trying to figure out. This is a 86 Toyota 4Runner with 22RE EFI engine stock. This Toy was running before but it was time for a rebuilt. This is where Iam at Ive checked the Ignition system and its all good, I did a compreesion test and read all cylinders above 100psi{good}, Next I checked fuel system what i found to be wrong, -- I grabbed a spray bottle with fuel and sprayed some into the throttle body Car will start until the fuel that i sprayed was gone. So I took off top intake "again" to check the fuel system right. It has a new filter on it, I check for voltage on each injector plugs;They all have signal voltage, There is plenty of fuel in in the fuel rails including the "cold start" line injector. There only place I didnt get any signal voltage was from the cold start injector plug, But i wasnt sure if it works only when you crank the engine. So fellas Whats happening here Im pretty positive is not the injectors if one was bad engine will still start Could a fuel pressure regulator cause this kind of problem?? Any help will be great thanks PEPE
Is your MAF hooked up? The fuel pump will not turn ON until the MAF senses air flow from the engine cranking. There is a plug on the drivers side fender in engine compartment that can be jumped to turn ON fuel pump manually. You could jump that and listen for the fuel pump coming ON. If it does come ON, then trying cranking engine and see if it starts.
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'86 4runner, 22RE, auto, 4" ProComp lift, 33x12.5 BFG All-Terrains on 15" A/R rims, clear lens front & rear, 260,000+ miles. Wanting 4.88 gears and soft-top. '88 4runner, V6, 5spd, sunroof, power everything, 185,000+ miles.
Texas MAF is hooked up I do hear the pump on I unplug the "cold start" injector fuel line and when i crank it there sufficent fuel pressure squrting thru but for some reason it just wont start unless i spray some fuel thru the throtle. Should there be voltage signal on the "cold start" injector plug with ignition key on?? B/C I get no signal.Thanks
Not sure about the signal on the cold start but it should not keep you from starting. Maybe cause a rough idle when cold.
Fuel in the rail...will start by spraying fuel through throttle...It sound like the injectors are not firing.
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'86 4runner, 22RE, auto, 4" ProComp lift, 33x12.5 BFG All-Terrains on 15" A/R rims, clear lens front & rear, 260,000+ miles. Wanting 4.88 gears and soft-top. '88 4runner, V6, 5spd, sunroof, power everything, 185,000+ miles.
Thats what Im thinking But I checked for voltage signal on each plug and they all have signals, I really doubt all injectors go bad in a snap. Will the fuel pressure regulator have to do anything with this?
I know from experience that, while voltage checking fuel injectors is good, they STILL can be clogged! (And, yes, it should start if just one is clogged but it won't run for long..one or two revs at the most. If Two are clogged, it, usually, won't even start. But it starts with the spray so I'm suspicious of the injectors or fuel....did you check the fuel system?)
I've never cleaned injectors, just bought new ones, so if anyone has a way to clean them, I'd try that, first. (Or just buy one new one and try it like testing light bulbs on a Christmas tree.)
Texas what I meant about this is that i unplug the cold start fuel line attached on top of intake to see i if fuel is going thru the rails, Yes there fuel running thru and lot pressure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by texas12
I unplug the "cold start" injector fuel line and when i crank it there sufficent fuel pressure squrting thru
Is it squirting thru the cold start injector or just the line to the injector. As I recall, the cold start injector should just drip fuel.
Will the fuel pressure regulator have to do anything with this?
Doubt if that would be the problem since you have pressure at cold start injector.
About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes and auto tranny computer codes to see if a fault is registered.
To pull the ECU codes:
All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:
Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.
Any Public Library in your area would have the Factory service manual,Haynes,Chiltons,Mitchells,Clymers,Bentley and Toyota repair books.
1)buy a used one off e-bay
2)some Toyota dealerships may give you one or sell it for $10-20 (used) as most Toyota dealerships don't repair many old Toyotas and no longer need the service manual
3)some public libraries sell their old books as they are not in demand any longer
4)some free buy & sell classified papers,websites and bulletin boards may have some used ones for sale
5)some junk yards may have one laying around
6)some Toyota specialty garages may have one laying around and no longer use it as the vehicle may be too old and those mechanics probably have so much experience that they could publish their own factory service manual with corrections and "real world repair tips"
7)if someone has the FSM maybe they could scan all of the pages and post it on a site for all of us to download or view.
Sidney
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 243 000 KM
Guys If the toy was running before I swap this engine in Why would a PCM go bad??? What Im going to try tomorrow is check all wirring againg and test injector connectors see if they blink when craking engine, I have this strong feeling that there is something not conected What else should i check fellas? Thanks
if the injectors were sitting for a period of time, they may be stuck shut. If you have the proper fuel pressure and an injector signal, they should be working
guys I finally found the problem after rechecking all basics and my work again. Everything was at specification, The problem was on top of the coil theres a little box with green 3 plug wire. I found one wire torn after tearing off the seal of those wire to see if everything was hoked up. I rewire the torn wire and Poom and starts at first crank. I thought i should put this just in case others have a situtation alike this Thanks again fellas
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No fuel No start Help Please
to check the fuel system right. It has a new filter on it, I check for voltage on each injector plugs;They all have signal voltage, There is plenty of fuel in in the fuel rails including the "cold start" line injector. There only place I didnt get any signal voltage was from the cold start injector plug, But i wasnt sure if it works only when you crank the engine. So fellas Whats happening here Im pretty positive is not the injectors if one was bad engine will still start Could a fuel pressure regulator cause this kind of problem?? Any help will be great thanks PEPE
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