break in

[Timbaliya]

Hey, I'm about to purchase a 2005 6 spd MT, double cab, v6 4.0 L Toyota tacoma truck.
First thing I need to think about after purchase is how to break it in right. I came across this website which made some good points and am looking for input on how well their technique would work.

here's the link: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I'm especially looking for anyone has used this technique to break in their vehicle, but am not interested in replies from those who won't even read what this mechanic has to say. Thanks.

[humanoid]

Would you trust your $30K rig on that method? I personally would not. Your car is broken in the first 2 hours you drive it. Is he talking about cycles or cars? Take it easy the first 2-3K miles and then go at it! In the end, it's your $$$. Just my crappy .02.

[ltech221]

The manual states 1000miles is breakin but like humanoid said, just take it easy for the first 2-3k or till your first service. Ive read that page before but havent heard anything else or anyone trying his methods.

[bburns]

Hi, I'm new to the forum but I've seen that guy's break-in procedure touted in several forums. I would just note that he's talking about breaking in motorcycle engines which are usually higher compression and higher revving than the ones in most vehicles. I would take that break-in advice with a grain of salt (it's not bad advice but may only have limited applicability to you with a truck motor).

[Major Woods]

I'ts not the first time I have heard this.
Not by choise but I have been towing my boat every weekend since purchasing the 2005. 200 miles round trip. Only time will tell I guess if that theory is correct.

[greasyjeep]

rings are made of harder alloys than cylinder walls
the cross hatch will not file down the rings
just change speed a bunch - take the way home with traffic lights and windy roads for the 1st month or so.

i would change the oil (not the filter) after 1000 miles and see what ya got
even if it is still clean (which it better be) run it through a paint strainer and see what ya catch.
anything alarming, take to the dealer.

[mika]

Well I have uesd that method many times to break-in motorcycles and snowmobiles, and I will tell you this I have always had some of the fastest stock rides when I did that. I did that same technique with a Subaru I had 4 years ago. I had not problems with it and it ran perfect and made a ton of power. Was it more then if I followed the mfg suggestions, I dont know. Never had a chance to compare my Subaru to other ones from that perspective. However I can tell you the car had a life of hard use and it ran perfect. When I does come to all my other cars I tend to break them in basicly how I am going to drive them. I tend to be a somewhat agressive driver and my break-ins do not follow the mfg suggestions at all. I am religious as to maintance. I usually keep a car a very long time and I have had very few problem related to what I would consider break-in related. I have had a my fair share of transmission problems with some GM made trucks but I guess towing 5000 pounds at 80+ is my fault . I have also had trucks that I have towed very large and heavy loade at 80+ and plowed snow and I got 100,000 plus miles out of those transmissions. As far as engines I have never had an engine in a car or truck fail on me (knock on wood).

Requardless of what method you use to break-in an engine regular maintance and careful consideration of changes in your vehicles performance (sounds, fell, smells, ect...) can give you a good idea of what is starting to wear out.

And use good products inside your engine and drivetrain. I have been running full synthic oils for many years. That combined with good maintance schedule and proper care you will get many many reliable miles out of any vehicle you own reguardless of how you broke it in, IMO.

[greasyjeep]

that is the point tho
you are not only breaking in your engine, you are also breaking in your gears and tranny

[alltrac165]

I'd have to say it almost doesn't matter how you break it in. Most engines today will run for a great many miles with satisfactory performance no matter what we do to them. So it's a matter of sealing the rings to the cylinders. To that end, combustion pressure is how it's accomplished. On and off the throttle. No light cruising.
As for mototune, that method, more or less, is how race engines are broken in all over the world. Anybody with the money for a dyno breaks it in on one doing short full throttle runs. I've read books on the subject by well known racing engine builders who use similar routines for break in. Most say it's pretty well said and done in about 20 minutes of workout on the dyno or track. Flat tappet cams excepted. I'd wager that most of the manufacturer break in advice has more to do with driver/vehicle familiarity and over all safety than anything else. If anything major is going to break or go wrong, it's likely to happen in the first few thousand miles, so why not have the driver baby it for that time so it doesn't shake out while you are testing your vehicles top speed on some stretch of open road on the first day of ownership? Not to mention the driver needs to get used to the vehicle, etc.
I'd change the oil at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles, then regular service intervals. Switch to synthetic at a couple thousand miles, not for any other reason than I wouldn't want to throw away sythetic after 100 miles of use.