Engine help needed

[ToyoLoyal]

if you set the tick mark on the crank on 5 degrees and took the head off and the piston was at the bottom? somthing doesn't compute. Was the mark still on the 5 degrees. The crank pulley only goes on one way as stated by raven. If the #1 piston is at the bottom with the crank pulley lined up with 5 degrees, that is the problem.

Possible the key is missing from the crank. It is a little moon shaped piece of metal that goes in a slot and sticks up from the crank a bit. It corresponds with the slot in the crank pulley, thus making the crank pulley only go on one way. If that key is missing, the crank pulley could go on any direction and so your marks would be all off.

If what you said is accurate (I believe you, just double check) that would almost have to be the problem.

[pejka1]

I took the head into the machine shop today. everything checked out fine on it. valves were good, camshaft seemed fine. They said they'd take my money but couldn't do anything for me. lol.

The story with the pulley white mark, distributor etc....... Before I started pulling the head off, I set the crankshaft pulley white mark to line up with 5 degrees BTDC like it calls for. I also checked the distributor, it was perfectly in line with #1. After taking the head off, #1 piston was maybe 2/3 down the cylinder, probably closer to half. I remember thinking that they all were near the middle of the each cylinder. It definately wasn't at the bottom and no where near the top. I talked to someone at Jasper where he got the engine from today. The engine came complete with the head on so they set the crankshaft and camshaft there.

In every install manual I can find about setting the timing it talks about "bright links" in the timing chain. Single one for the crankshaft and two next to each other to locate around the camshaft. This chain only has one bright link. It also has a red and a yellow line away from the bright link. The red and yellow lines are about 10 links apart. Wrong chain? Jasper's instruction also talked about the three bright links. I think it was screwed up at the factory.

While laying under the truck today I found the engine ground unattached. I think that was the starter problem. I guess I have to go through and check everything this guy did. I also found about 3 bolts laying loose in the engine compartment. Need to find them a home too.

Any ideas on the timing thing. I was going to stop at the auto parts place and look at a new chain for this engine.

Last question... The 22R engine and the 22R-E are the same engine, correct? The E just means fuel injected. It doesn't change anything else, does it? It's stamped 22R on the side of the block and the truck is EFI.

Thanks for the help so far. I'm hoping to post a pic soon of the exhausting tailpipe.

Jim

[ToyoLoyal]

Once again, if the crank mark is on 5 degrees and the #1 piston is NOT at the TOP, there is something wrong. The crank pulley is on wrong somehow as I stated earlier.

Bright Links -- Most that I have set up had only two bright links they should be exactly opposite each other. Chain should have an even number of links. If you stretch it out on a bench the links should run right next to each other and at each end there should be one bright link connecting the two sides. If you can only find one bright link, I always stretch it out like this and the other bright link is the one exactly opposite. Hope you can picture this in your head, it's hard to explain.

As to you last question, 22re vs. 22r, this could change everything I just said. '85 and up 22r and 22re BLOCKS are the same. The cam is different, but the heads will interchange no problem. So, as long as you have a '85 and up head AND block, you are ok, even if it was originally carburated. However, if you have a '84 or older block or head either one, you have problems. The block is shorter and head taller (or vice versa, I can't remember). The timing chain is also different, I think the '84 and older chain has an odd number of links. I believe the '85 and up blocks have a short of chevy emblem looking thing cast in the side.

[pejka1]

Well I think I figured out what was wrong..... As far as I can tell the cam and crank were not aligned somehow. this must have happened when it was put together at Jasper. I see the two bright links on the chain and aligned them with the marks on each sprocket after getting them to TDC. There is red paint on the timing mark on the cam sprrocket and also a red line on the chain about six links away from one of the bright links. Somehow these must have been aligned when assembled. Luckily there was not damage to the head. A local machine shop checked it out.

i just got everything back together and fired it up. It wouldn't idle for me and in the process of adjusting, restarting etc I fried the starter out. so off to the store now to get a new one.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the help.

Jim

[pejka1]

It runs and sounds pretty good. It won't idle, in fact, the engine quits immediately when I let my foot off the gas. There is also a whine/whistle/scream from the right side of the engine somewhere. It's hard to pinpoint where its coming from cuz the engine has to be reved to keep it running.

Every vaccuum hose, connector and line were hooked back up exactly the same as when I got the truck. Nothing is loose. checked 5 times.

Only things that I can think of now that might be wrong are:
1. Computer/fuel delivery system isn't functioning correctly.
2. There is a "throttle sensor" on the throttle body that may need to be replaced.
The book talks about a IAC-- Idle air control. Is this the same as this "throttle sensor"? It looks similar to the pic in the book, except there are no vaccuum lines from the one on this engine.
3. The guy that initially put the engine in hooked up something wrong and I copied it.

Anything you might like checked? Time to bring it in for diagnostics? Would that even help at this point?

Thanks,
Jim

[alltrac165]

Sounds like an enormous vacuum leak to me. Have someone else keep their foot on the gas while you find out where that scream is coming from.

[crazycruzer]

I agree. Sounds like a major vacuum leak. You can adjust the throttle cable so that it will hold idle and spray around with Carb cleaner. If you get a sudden rise in idle, then you have a vacuum leak in the area you sprayed. Hope that helps.

[pejka1]

here's the latest..... It starts fine and runs great for about 1 minute. After that the idle slows and it starts to run rough, the idle also pulses back and forth just enough to keep it running. The scream/whistle screech from the manifold area is just about gone now. Barely audible. I tried the adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body, didn't seem to help any.

There is now a strange noise coming from the engine somewhere. It's very hard to describe but if I had to I'd say it's a squeaking rattle that is pretty loud at times. It's not a constant noise. More so when the engine starts to run rough and shakes.

I've taken the manifold off and checked every vaccuum line I can find. They all have a home and seem to be correct. Nothing is loose, cracked etc.

The strange thing with the truck now is every time I run it, it seems to be better than when I left it. That's without doing anything to it but letting it sit. I hope this continues.

Jim

[tim1]

Jim, if you let it set long enough, you say it will completely heal itself? Cool! If you guys want to pull your pan off on the 4x4's, here is a easy way. Take the steering loose on the drivers side only, jack the engine up as much as possible, drop the pan down and reach in there an take the pickup tube off and drop in pan and slide it out the front. When you go back get a new tube gasket from toyota and visa versa. Napa sells a Victor cork gasket for the pan and it is sweet. I removed mine to remove the plastic guides, but the pickup screen is huge and the pieces were large and would settle in the bottom, so was a waste of time,I'm just a fanatic, i guess. Tim