If intake and headers won't do much, then why would a cat back exhaust alone will? That's like breathing through one nostril. If you're going to allow your engine to breathe better, then you need to do it properly and upgrade the ENTIRE exhaust and intake to allow more air to enter. Intake and exhaust go hand in hand. Don't do a halfass upgrade. You won't feel any increase in power that way.
The reason why most drivers will not notice much difference is that a lot people get their "performance boost" refererence from V8 engines. American V8 engines are almost always choked by an ultra-crappy cast iron exhaust manifold that dumps an exhaust volume that is more than twice the volume of a 22 series engine.
The 22r/re has less than half the C.I.D of a 350/ 5.7 liter V8 , but the Toyota exhaust manifold has two downtubes that run into the cat.
A 22 series header may benefit some, but that is after other modifcations that may make the engine "un-smoggable".
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1984 4x4 Xcab...and...Stock 1990 Camry Sedan. 3sfe. A/T. A/C. P/S.P/B. Work car...I install TOYOTA PARTS 90% of the time, even when it hurt$.
Headers are known as one of the most bang for the buck upgrades that you can do on your vehicle to increase horsepower. Headers will run you between $300-$800 depending on the brand and quality you choose and will increase 5-25 horsepower on average depending on the engine. If you're trying to free up exhaust to allow it to exit faster, then you should start from the beginning of the exhaust and not the end. Many times when people install cat-back systems and not upgrade their headers, they are gaining horsepower because of the higher flowing muffler and not because of the the bigger piping. Also, 99 out of 100 people will neglect their catalytic converter. These days there are many high performance cats that are smog legal and will free up an extra 5+ horsepower and costs about $150-$200 bucks - that's a pretty cheap upgrade. In my opinion, upgrading your exhaust from the cat back is like changing to a high flowing fuel pump but keeping the stock injectors.
There are quite a few people with considerable knowledge and experience who seem to think that the stock exhaust manifold works pretty good. This isn't a standard log manifold. It's not what I would call perfect, but it's a pretty good Try-Y design. From what I hear, upgrading the pipe to 2" from the manifold to the cat or muffler, then up to 2.25 for the rest does just as good as the same system with headers. I've opted to skip the header on my truck and just do the exhaust. I'll let you know after the weekend how it feels.
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Bob Raby
Santa Cruz, CA
'88 Alltrac (broken) FOR SALE
'87 4x4 Toy Truck SOLD
'90 4Runner (3.4 swap, CA certified legal with K&N intake, modified thermal coated headers, 2.5" exhaust, and almost as fast as a stock 3rd gen ) SOLD
im sure ebay will have some good deals but I run a off the shelf unit from a local parts house $70-$100. if you are looking to free up some existing HP look into a underdrive pully kit, you can also find them on ebay. the combo (fan&pullies) should net 7-10HP to the wheels.
how much would a nice fan be?? how much was ur Flex-a-lite?
Black Magics are expensive and will run you about $250. I got mine for $160 bucks from some guy who bought it brand new and no longer wanted it. Lucky for me .
I hate to sound like a piss ant...but the Factory Toyota fan clutch does exactly what is supposed to do...Provide air-flow at under 30 MPH...and slip during acceleration/cruising at speed.
Off-road water crossings may benefit from an electrical fan that can be turned off (to keep the fan blades from catching water and driving a hole into the radiator)...but merely sticking a one-piece black plastic high-flow fan can put a great stress on the small waterpump bearings I have seen on the 22R/22RE.
Go electric...or go FACTORY.
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1984 4x4 Xcab...and...Stock 1990 Camry Sedan. 3sfe. A/T. A/C. P/S.P/B. Work car...I install TOYOTA PARTS 90% of the time, even when it hurt$.
i am goin to replace my fan clutch with just a stock one. i will see how well that works for me. any other advice??
ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS APPRECIATED!!
I hate to sound like a piss ant...but the Factory Toyota fan clutch does exactly what is supposed to do...Provide air-flow at under 30 MPH...and slip during acceleration/cruising at speed.
Off-road water crossings may benefit from an electrical fan that can be turned off (to keep the fan blades from catching water and driving a hole into the radiator)...but merely sticking a one-piece black plastic high-flow fan can put a great stress on the small waterpump bearings I have seen on the 22R/22RE.
Go electric...or go FACTORY.
The Flex-a-lite Black Magic IS in fact a LOW PROFILE ELECTRIC FAN that comes with proper temperature sensors and thermostat to automatically activate and deactivate the fan at your preferred temperature setting. It also free up stress on the water pump. I don't get your comment????
Last edited by crazycruzer; 03-12-2005 at 02:00 PM.
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