I own a pretty nicely restored (to stock) 1987, 2WD Toyota short bed pick-up.
I love my truck - and I want everything to run just like the day it rolled off the factory floor in 1987!
Here's my problem:
My dome light went out recently, I checked it out, and the bulb was melted!
I'm guessing this is not good.
First, I'm thinking 'check the fuse', but I've lost the driver's side fuse panel cover so I don't even know where the fuse is!
Can anyone provide a list/picture/link showing which fuses are where?
Or, does expert out there simply know where the dome fuse is?
Or, can anyone tell me what's going on if it's not the fuse?
Also, and possibly related, is the fact that the dome only comes on when the PASSENGER door is opened - I can't get the driver's door to trigger the light. I've changed the switches in the doorframe, and checked all visible wiring but still the problem persists.
Any response whatsoever is greatly appreciated in advance,
There was a thread called : Electrical...Diode Location for Interior Light Circuit.
In that thread you will find info about how the dome light goes through the seatbelt warning relay. This is the relay that buzzes when you have your door open and the key is in the ignition. It also buzzes with the seatbelt warning light to remind you to put on your seatbelt. A lot of people remove the relay because the buzzer is annoying. It is located up above the brake pedal. If you remove the relay, the dome light will not trigger when you open the drivers door but will when you open the passenger door (maybe a 2nd relay for the passenger side). Hope that helps.
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'86 4runner, 22RE, auto, 4" ProComp lift, 33x12.5 BFG All-Terrains on 15" A/R rims, clear lens front & rear, 260,000+ miles. Wanting 4.88 gears and soft-top. '88 4runner, V6, 5spd, sunroof, power everything, 185,000+ miles.
Here's the thing: I hear NO sounds like a 'door open buzzer' in my truck at all. Even if you leave the lights on and remove the key, the truck will keep quiet. Mine's an '87 - should I even have a buzzer?
If the previous owner removed that relay, that would explain my dome light trigger problem. But what about the melted bulb?
I got the fuse panel diagram - I'll check that they all have the correct ratings, and that they're all there!
I replaced the dome fuse with a 5 A - although it requires a 7.5A. There was a 15 A in there - could this explain the melted bulb?
Also, is it bad to put a lower rated fuse in? I'm thinking it's harmless.
I read that older thread -- it describes my problem perfectly. However, upon inspection of my truck, I can't see anything to re-connect.
I do see the white, 8 wire connector, but there's nothing that I can see for it to connect to. It's just hanging there all by itself.
There's a black button up behind the brake pedal also; it's attached to a square metal object - any idea what that is (just wondering)?
Tom
Hey Tom,
When someone had this problem before, I took some digi pics of the relay and it's location. I will see if I still have them. PM me with an email address.
Also, like said above, the lower rated fuse will only make it safer but may blow for no reason. If a higher fuse blows, you but move current through the circuit than it was meant to handle.......and yes, it could melt something.
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'86 4runner, 22RE, auto, 4" ProComp lift, 33x12.5 BFG All-Terrains on 15" A/R rims, clear lens front & rear, 260,000+ miles. Wanting 4.88 gears and soft-top. '88 4runner, V6, 5spd, sunroof, power everything, 185,000+ miles.
I thought about taking pics for your review also; but, like I said, the thing is just hanging there - not much to see.
Also, my harness has no numbers on it as you describe in tha older discussion, but (although I didn't count them) there looks like there's 7 wires going in.
Shouldn't there be another part for it to snap into? Or is it like a terminus or something?
I thought about taking pics for your review also; but, like I said, the thing is just hanging there - not much to see.
Also, my harness has no numbers on it as you describe in tha older discussion, but (although I didn't count them) there looks like there's 7 wires going in.
Shouldn't there be another part for it to snap into? Or is it like a terminus or something?
Many thanks,
Tom
Tom,
I am the one that had this problem before. I had exactly what you had....just a 8-wire connector (only 7 wires) hanging there under the dash. After some testing, and looking through the wiring diagram, I was able to connect two of the wires on the plug together which would make my domelight work for the drivers side. So I knew that was my problem.
I just went the the wrecking yard a couple days ago to get one. There was pretty much one in every truck/4runner...so I went through a few and found one that looked the cleanest. Cost me $15 (I also bought a window switch for a friend, so I could have got it cheaper). Its just a little black box and it slides onto the little metal tab above your brake pedal.
I installed it and it works great...however I don't get the buzzing noise when my seatbelt is undone of the key is in the igniton with the door open. I could care less about the buzzing, as long as my domelight works...
So, A Part Is Missing Then. And I Have To Get It From My Junkyard To Make This Work - Is That It?
Can I Get My Light To Work Bt Simply Connecting The 2 Wires Together Like You Did, Or Do I Have To Replace The Missing Part?
Many Thanks,
Tom
P.s. Was Wondering If You'd Fixed Your Problem!!
Yes, a piece is missing. You don't have to get this piece from a junkyard to make it work. I figured if I could get it for cheaper than $20, then I would take it. I was suprised with what they charged me for it. I thought it would be better just to get it back to where it was before, instead of snipping some wires and fixing it that way.
You can do it that way though. Your domelight circuit comes to this plug, which then goes through the relay, and then exits to the wire that goes down to you door pin switch. So by connecting these two wires, it will bypass the seatbelt warning wiring and just make a straight connection from your domelight to the door pin switch. I don't have the wiring diagram with me, but I know the wire that goes from the plug to the door is red (I am pretty sure, now I am second guessing myself)....I will get my book out and let you know the two wires you need to connect.
You can get under there and test it. Just get a short piece of wire and connect two terminals at a time until your domelight comes on.
Hey Tom,
Did you replace the melted bulb? Does it work with the passenger door? Does it work with the dome light switch? Just wanna make sure there isn't another problem since you said the bulb was melted.
If the light isn't working now with the dome light switch, messing around with the relay wiring will just make things worse.
IMO, just buy the relay (new or salvage) .
87_SR5,
If your buzzer is not working, someone probably opened that relay you bought and bent back the tab that causes the buzzing. That is what I did on my relay. Hated the buzzing but I like my light to come on when I open my door.
__________________
'86 4runner, 22RE, auto, 4" ProComp lift, 33x12.5 BFG All-Terrains on 15" A/R rims, clear lens front & rear, 260,000+ miles. Wanting 4.88 gears and soft-top. '88 4runner, V6, 5spd, sunroof, power everything, 185,000+ miles.
The information in this forum is almost too accurate - down to the ID numbers on the component!
I stopped by the local junk place today, finally found the one in a shamefully wrecked 4runner soft top, an '86 I believe. The guy wanted $25; I talked him down to $15. He gave me the ole 'Do you know how much these cost at the dealer?' spiel!
Inserted the ole harness into this mysterious black breaker thing (what is it anyways, a relay?) and the dome light worked!
I thought "Great! No buzzer!
Until I turned the key!
It's there too, and it sounds like it came from a shamefully wrecked 1986 4runner!
But, I'm so grateful and glad this all worked out.
Sincere thanks to Texas12 and 87_SR5, especially.
Tom
Last edited by English Tom; 03-08-2005 at 12:58 AM.
Reason: typo
The information in this forum is almost too accurate - down to the ID numbers on the component!
I stopped by the local junk place today, finally found the one in a shamefully wrecked 4runner soft top, an '86 I believe. The guy wanted $25; I talked him down to $15. He gave me the ole 'Do you know how much these cost at the dealer?' spiel!
Inserted the ole harness into this mysterious black breaker thing (what is it anyways, a relay?) and the dome light worked!
I thought "Great! No buzzer!
Until I turned the key!
It's there too, and it sounds like it came from a shamefully wrecked 1986 4runner!
But, I'm so grateful and glad this all worked out.
Sincere thanks to Texas12 and 87_SR5, especially.
Tom
Glad you got it to work. Yea, I checked it out and searched the part number Texas12 gave me and I came back with a price of $115!!! For that little black box....
You can always do what Texas 12 did and take the box apart (there are just little tabs holding it together) and you will see the tab that causes the buzzing. You can bend that back and it won't buzz.
I am still wondering why mine doesn't buzz. Maybe the one i got is broken. Who knows....
So it buzzes when the key is in the ignition (turned to ACC or start? or just in the igniton?) and the door is opened? What about your seatbelt? Does it buzz until you buckle up or what? Not that I am going to fix mine to buzz, but I was just wondering.
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