88 starting problem - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

markski1 · 03-11-2005, 05:55 AM

my truck, 22re motor wont start right away when its cold, just cranks and it wants to but dies, does this for about six attempts then it will start and run great, any ideas, my bud thinks it is electrical but i think its fuel....really runs great after its started though. mark

texas12 · 03-11-2005, 10:18 AM

Sounds like you are losing pressure in the fuel rail and it has to build back up. Fuel pump will not come on until your engine is actually cranking. There is a connector on drivers fender well to short to ground that will make fuel pump come on when key is turned on or you could pry open flap on MAF to simulate air flow and fuel pump will come on with key on. That way you can charge your fuel line before cranking to see if that is your problem.

fast68 · 03-11-2005, 11:00 AM

sounds like pump or filter issue really, when dont have enough fuel volume then first symptoms be hard starting

have pressure checked, replace filter now, see how does then

good luck

crazycruzer · 03-11-2005, 06:11 PM

Sounds like a bad point and condensor.

Rycam · 03-11-2005, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazycruzer

Sounds like a bad point and condensor.

Hee-Hee...You are funny!

Rycam · 03-11-2005, 09:52 PM

Seriously!!!!...If you think this starting prob is electrical/fuel related...YOU NEED TO GET BACK TO BASICS before you assume wild explanations before you get disapointed and give up or spend a lot of $ for nothing.

Use ONLY Toyota Factory caps and rotors. Use other's plugs wires if there is no other way.

Check the timing according to spec!

Clean the throttle body.

crazycruzer · 03-12-2005, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rycam

Seriously!!!!...If you think this starting prob is electrical/fuel related...YOU NEED TO GET BACK TO BASICS before you assume wild explanations before you get disapointed and give up or spend a lot of $ for nothing.

Use ONLY Toyota Factory caps and rotors. Use other's plugs wires if there is no other way.

Check the timing according to spec!

Clean the throttle body.

Back to the basics IS about fuel, fire, and compression. Those are the 3 BASIC compenents that is required to start an engine that cranks over. As for timing, yes you should always check the timing first unless you don't have access to a timing light. However, your timing will have to be thrown off by a lot in order for the engine to not start up. I have own cars where I never had to adjust the timing unless the timing belt was changed.

qsd-dan · 03-13-2005, 03:22 AM

If your truck starts right up at normal operating temperaurte but is hard to when cold, it is either the cold start injector or the cold start injector time switch. Start by testing the cold start injector time switch.

markski1 · 03-13-2005, 06:21 AM

can you explain a simple way to test that switch/ injecter? is there a way to adjust the maf senser?

qsd-dan · 03-13-2005, 10:22 AM

For testing of the cold start injector time switch, remove the connector and measure the resistance between the two terminals. The cold start injector time switch is located right beneath the bvsv valve. The sensor to the right of it is the water thermo sensor (also known as the coolant temperature sensor) My manual is for an 84 so yours may vary. But if you're curious mine indiates 20-40 ohms below 86 degrees F and 40-60 ohms above 104 degrees F. From the lower prong to ground should be 20-80 ohms.

For testing of the cold start injector, remove the connctor and measure the resistance between the two terminals. My manual indicates 2-4 ohms. However, the injector could ohm out correctly yet be plugged. You can remove the injector with the fuel line still attached and see if it squirts out fuel while somebody else cranks over the motor. The motor must be cold for this to work as the cold start injector does not fucntion with a warm engine. Be sure to disable the vehicle from starting by removing the coil wire or something to that nature. Also remember the battery is very close the injector so BE CARFULL!! Try to direct the fuel into a container of some sort.

There is a way to adjust the airflow meter, but this will not correct your problem as they never go out of spec. The adjustment is for aggressive modifications only such as wild camshafts and turbos/supercharger additions. Adjusting it is only a bandaid approach, and that's even if it would work anyway. Good luck and be carefull!! Post your results when you find the problem.

markski1 · 03-14-2005, 05:41 AM

well the injecter is at 3.5 olms and the switch is 79 cold and 79 with engine warmed up so i am going to test the switch by grounding it and see if i get voltage to the injecter......

qsd-dan · 03-14-2005, 10:26 AM

No need for any more testing, it is the cold start injector time switch. The resistance should vary depending on heat. Yours is staying constant and on the high side of resistance, so it is telling the computer that your motor is hot no matter what temperature the coolant acutally is. This is preventing your cold start injector from turning on. For shits and giggles, I tested my own and found 28.9 ohms cold and 52.4 ohms hot.

markski1 · 03-14-2005, 12:33 PM

thanks for the help now i just have to come up with the $100. now on to my 87 toyota moterhome, it runs fine but when taking off from a stop it hesitates bad, just about stalls. i usually have to pump the gas pedal like its a carberated motor but its efi.....

markski1 · 03-15-2005, 03:12 AM

do you think i could just put in a toggle switch in place?

qsd-dan · 03-15-2005, 03:56 AM

Yeah, I've actually heard of one person doing just that. Make sure you don't engage it for more than 30 seconds as there is the chance of burning out the cold start injector. He said it worked great being able to give the motor an extra shot of fuel when the temperature reached below -30F.