what does it take to replace timing chain set in an 87 22RE
what all do you HAVE to unbolt ?
cylinder head ? balancer ? timing cover ?
p/s ? alt ? any accessories ?
what is the timing cover made of ? aluminum or ?
how is the balancer held on ? will a normal three slot pulley/wheel pulled yank it off ?
where to set engine at before disassembly ? how to know where its at ?
are there marks on gears ?
where they need to be at ?
what do parts costs ?
tensioners ?
anyone got pics ?
im just curious,
i know the set is well worn in my 87 with 130k, it is real noisy up front,
but im thinkign this is a HUGe long job and i highly doubt ill do it and will instead drive it til it busts the timing then junk the truck if nothing else goes before that does,
already got no fuel guage, vent wing glass, bed, etc,
idler arm is sloppy worn, thats 60 bucks i wont spend on it, forgt all that,,, not for a measly idler arm..
but it keeps running and driving, oh and brakes are screwy in the rear, they will not adjust out, they piss me off!
thanks
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what does it take to replace timing chain set in an 87 22RE
what all do you HAVE to unbolt ?
cylinder head ? balancer ? timing cover ?
You do not have to take the head off...the balancer should come off pretty easy w/o the use of a puller...and you have to take the TIMING cover off to get the the TIMING chain. Valve cover must come off too.
p/s ? alt ? any accessories ?
Everything has to come off the front of the engine...P/S will come off, but don't remove it completely, it will swing out of the way. Remove the ALT..it just gives you more room to work. And A/C if you have it.
what is the timing cover made of ? aluminum or ?
Aluminum...and if it has been pretty noisy for a while, chances are you got a pretty nice groove in the cover (due to the original plastic guide breaking). Take a look and replace it if you have any doubt the groove is too deep. If the groove is too deep, you risk it going through and letting coolant into your oil, which will kill your crank bearing and make you spend more money Talk to member D'mon about this
how is the balancer held on ? will a normal three slot pulley/wheel pulled yank it off ?
Balancer is held on by one bolt (19mm socket I believe). If you have a manual trans, put it in the highest gear, and block up the tires so it wont roll on you. Get the longest breaker bar you can. I got down from underneath and loosened it that way. There is a trick to get the breaker bar wedged up against the frame and then tap the starter (coil wire off). The engine should break the bolt free. I haven't tried it, but if you have a auto tranny that is what I would do.
The manual recommends a puller but mine just slid right off, no troubles at all.
where to set engine at before disassembly ? how to know where its at ?
Set it a TDC (notch on pully lined up w/ 0 degree mark). Make sure it is TDC on compression stroke, which you can tell with your valve cover off...when you have it at TDC on the compression stroke, the number 1 valves (toward front of eng.) will be loose.
are there marks on gears ?
where they need to be at ?
There are marks on gears that link up with certain links on the chain. The sprockets have keyways, so as long as you line up the chain links (they will be a different color) with the marks on the spockets, your timing will be fine. So it doesn't really matter what you have the engine set at before you disassemble, but the marks on the sprockets are straight up and down at TDC.
what do parts costs ?
tensioners ?
anyone got pics ?
I recommend a seller off eBay, as someone also recommended him to me. Seller ID is ENGNBLDR. He has great kits....just the timing kit, which includes sprockets, chain, tensioner, guides (w/ metal drivers side guide), all gaskets. And a 3 year warranty. All this for $50-$55. He also has that same kit w/ a new timing cover for $78-$84.
im just curious,
i know the set is well worn in my 87 with 130k, it is real noisy up front,
but im thinkign this is a HUGe long job and i highly doubt ill do it and will instead drive it til it busts the timing then junk the truck if nothing else goes before that does,
Your chain is not going to break, the only thing that is going to happen is the chain is going to wear through that cover, letting coolant in, which like I said before could destroy your crank bearings.
already got no fuel guage, vent wing glass, bed, etc,
idler arm is sloppy worn, thats 60 bucks i wont spend on it, forgt all that,,, not for a measly idler arm..
but it keeps running and driving, oh and brakes are screwy in the rear, they will not adjust out, they piss me off!
thanks
Also, since your guide broke (which I am assuming, with the noises you mentioned), I would recommend removing your oil pan to remove the chunks of plastic floating around there (which are right under the oil pickup). For mine (4X4), you have to remove the engine mounts, and then block up the engine as far as you can...this will give you enough clearance to remove the pan. A new water pump might not hurt either, as long as you have it all apart.
get the oil pan off and then the oil pump, then the cover, and dont forget the 10mm bolt under the valve cover right at the front of the head that goes into the cover, dont loosten the head, get the timing marks aligned and then replace the chain and guides and inspect the inside of the cover to see if the chain ground the drivers side into the water jacket, glue the cover gasket to the BLOCK, just put 2 dabs of silicone where the head meets the timing cover and the block and carefully position the cover to the block, install all the cover bolts but dont tighten them up all the way, tighten the small bolt in the head first, then tighten the rest, replace the oil pump o ring and balancer seal and put the pump on, then put black silicone on the BLOCK, and put the pan on
Most engine wear on any engine occurs at startup with that said the R series Toyota engines such as the 18R,20R and 22R all use a timing chain which it's tension is supplied by hydraulically driven timing chain tensioner which has it's oil pressure build up few seconds after the engine has started therefore the timing chain rubs on the driver's side brown colored nylon/plastic timing chain dampener or guide and after so many miles (140-170 000 miles in the city with the average 4 starts per day) the driver's side guide breaks through causing the chain to rub on the timing chain cover for the first few seconds upon startup and when driving in 5th gear and letting off the gas.
Usually by this point the other timing components such as the camshaft sprocket,crankshaft sprocket and chain have their specs out of tolerance and hence must be replaced as well.The tensioner sometimes sticks due to dirt build up and other problems arise as well and must be replaced as well,all of those parts are sold in the aftermarket world as a "timing chain kit" which also include gaskets and a front oil crankshaft seal.Toyota on the other hand for some reason does not sell the parts as a kit but as individual parts which would cost around $400+ and from all of the reading I have done on many Toyota 4-Runner/pickup discussion sites I have come to the conclusion that many experienced off-roaders who cannot afford to buy all of the genuine Toyota timing parts instead buy the chain and tensioner from Toyota and the other parts from aftermarket as a kit but of course don't use the aftermarket chain or tensioner.
The best brand of aftermarket timing chain parts to use on the 20R & 22R series Toyota motors are:
you can also remove the valve cover and take a flashlight and see if the driver's side timing chain dampener or guide wore through.
You can bend 1 to all 8 valves and have timing cover eaten through if you wait and then coolant and oil mix together to give you butterflies in you stomach.You can do a fluid analysis on your engine oil by going to any Caterpillar and buying a fluid analysis kit for around $15-20 and taking a sample of your old oil.
Finally these sites explain the timing chain replacement well:
Sidney
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Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 244 000 KM
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Talk to member D'mon about this
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