That is a great kit put together by 'engnbldr'. Mostly everyone knows about him and his kits that he puts together. I think everyone would recommend his kits. Someone recommended his kit to me, and at that price I couldn't say no. I was very happy with it, especially with the warranty is has.
Wait, hold on a minute. That kit doesn't have the steel guide rail! Here is his kit with steel guide:
That is definitly the kit you want. The kit you mentioned has the OEM guide rails (which are both plastic) that you don't want. You need to have a steel guide on the drivers side and regular on the pass. side.....like that other auction.
I didn't even know 'engnbldr' offered a kit with OEM guide rails. Anyways, if you buy a kit from him (which i highly recommend), definitly get that kit from the link i provided.
Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 244 000 KM
Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 244 000 KM
oh and when i replaced my timing chain it took about 1 day. Its not too difficult if you buy a book on your truck that tells you how to do everything. Try doing it yourself, it'll save you alot of money. Oh and by the way the plastic tensioners are gonna be ripped to hell and some peices will probably fall in your oil pan.
__________________
Brandon
~ 1992 Toyota Pickup 4x4 DLX 22-RE ~ 121,000 miles ~ Flowmaster 40 Series ~ 3" Lift ~ 33x12.5 On The Way ~
I went out and looked at my truck (1990 with 3 liter V6) during lunch and am a little confused.
My mechanic is the one that says the timing chain seal needs replacing and recommended replacing the chain, tensioners and water pump. Now it turns out that it isn't a chain at all, but a belt.
I had pictured it having a timing chain being bathed with oil and a seal needing to be replaced. But now I'm wondering where the oil is leaking from and how replacing these items is going to correct the oil leak. Is it more likely the crank seal that needs replacing?
Oil is definitely leaking at the front of the engine, but I'm not sure from where.
From what I read in my manual, after a certain year, a pan gasket is not required (I don't remember which year)...so you could use form-a-gasket instead. After doing this myself, I say buy a pan gasket and make it easier on yourself. First of all, applying the gasketmaker is hard enough with the space you have to work with. I thought I got it pretty good, but not good enough to where it is completely leak free. Now I am kicking myself for not getting a gasket.
You are definitly going to want to remove the oil pan to remove the broken up guide. When it falls into the pan, it plastic pieces sit right under the oil pickup, so removing them won't hurt.
And if you have a 4x4 (at least I think it only applies to a 4x4) you will have to remove the motor mount bolts, jack up the engine as far as you can, and put blocks between the mounts to hold the engine up. Doing this gives you the clearance to remove the oil pan. First, unbolt the pan, and while it is hanging, you will have to unbolt the oil pickup before you can remove the pan. Installation is reversed.
Here are some threads on doing the timing chain (with links). Take a look if you want.
Oh yea, one more thing. When you are removing the many bolts that are involved, I recommend you make a cardboard template. Draw the outline of the timing cover and then poke holes in the spots where the bolts go. When you remove the bolt, stick it in the corresponding spot. Since some bolts are different sizes, you don't want to get them mixed up. This helped me out a lot.
Glynn,
The cam pulleys go through a seal into the head, those may leak. The front main seal may leak. Belt replacement isn't that hard, but somewhat time consuming. Now, getting the pulleys off to replace the cam or crank seals is a mutha and requires some cool tools or serious ingenuity. You can pull the plastic shields off and see where the oil is coming from before you get too far into it. Belt should be replaced at any rate.
As far as the 22R, I would drop the oil pan just to make sure I sealed up around the timing cover well. As mentioned, its not easy to seal it back up without removing the pan. Also 87_SR5 mentioned a template for the timing cover bolts. This is more than recommended, it's critical. If you put the wrong bolt in the wrong hole you can bind up the tensioner and cause failure of the chain and guides. There is one hole directly in front of the tensioner that requires a short bolt.
__________________
Bob Raby
Santa Cruz, CA
'88 Alltrac (broken) FOR SALE
'87 4x4 Toy Truck SOLD
'90 4Runner (3.4 swap, CA certified legal with K&N intake, modified thermal coated headers, 2.5" exhaust, and almost as fast as a stock 3rd gen ) SOLD
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