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Old 04-21-2005, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2nd Generation tuff time starting my yota HELP

ive asked this question on this and other forums before but nobody was able to help me out so im tring again
when starting the runner it turns over but never cranks i can pop the hood and remove the oil cap and turn the once and it cranck right up EVERY TIME it does this for about a week at a time then goes a month working fine if you have an idea as to why or even a guess i thank ya lot for sharing it ive taking it to the shop and of course its running fine i thank ya for any help
oh ive got a 90 4runner v6 3.slow automatic

Last edited by bikerider; 04-21-2005 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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When her car wouldn't start, my mother would pop the hood and hit the battery with a tire iron. She swore that made it start every time. I would be inclined to think there might be another problem with your truck and the oil cap thing is a red herring.

BTW, it is a small thing, but the term "crank" usually means to turn the engine over. It probably comes from the fact the the first cars used cranks instead of electric starters.
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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2nd Generation

lol thanks alot but i asure you if it works its got to be the cause im not doing any thing else and it starts (cranks) and im not saying that the oil cap is the cause either but really someone toss me a suggestion im at a loss
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Since the problem is hit-and-miss, I would look for loose connections in the wiring associated with the starter. Another possibility would be to keep a voltmeter handy and as soon as the problem shows up, trace the voltage through the circuit while someone turns the switch (before removing the oil cap). Perhaps you are moving a wire or affecting a loose connection when you remove the cap or when you pop the hood??
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks ill try that but since the last time its done it ive been smelling gas real bad even after 6 hours after driving ive heard that it could be the charcol filter on the evap or the fuel injectors is there a test you can run on the two with out removing or going out and buying both and that not be the problem?
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Old 04-28-2005, 12:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Sounds like you're definatley running rich. It could be the canister. Usually the more common devices that fail are the fuel pressure regulator and a stuck injector. The cold start injector is very common to sticking and are usually the culprit.

I am only familair with the 22re, but you can check any pressure regualator by removing the vacuum hose and see if any fuel pukes out while the motor is running. If it does, then it's toast. The cold start injector can be tested by removing it with the fuel line intact, shorting the fuel pump connector and turing the key on to cycle the pump. If it drips more than 1 drop per a minute or worse yet, sprays out fuel, then that is bad. Couldn't tell you how to test the charcol canister, they seem to change every year.
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Old 04-28-2005, 05:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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2nd Generation

thanks bro ill try that but if i cant fix this problem im just getn a rebuilt motor cause everytime and i mean everytime i fix one thing a week later something else so thats that thanks again
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Old 04-29-2005, 09:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Check the vaccum. Maybe engine is holding to much pressure and by removing the oil cap is is releasing the pressure. I don't have a clue but I know vaccum can mess them up. Usually if I remove my oil cap the truck will not run or will run very very rough because of the pressure loss
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Old 04-30-2005, 10:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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well the only reason i found out about the oil cap is my last runner i for got to put the oil cap back on after changing the oil and it ran a little and died but turned over fine then sputterd out again so i was just tring anything and it worked but anyhow ive got the manual for the 4runner here and it doesnt say anything about where the vaccum hose is just how to check to see if there bad or not so which outa the 1000 of hoses that i see under the hood is the vaccum thanks for the replies
the only thing they have for a pic on vaccum is the egr vaccum modulator

Last edited by bikerider; 04-30-2005 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 05-06-2005, 06:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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well if any were wondering the reason was the ventialation hose near the oil cap had a huge crack down the back side so i got a new one so far so good gas smell still there
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Old 05-07-2005, 10:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You should also check the PCV valve system. The Positive Crankcase Ventiation system has LARGE diameter hoses that can introduce unfueled air into the intake if there is a crack in the PCV hose or the valve itself is defective. This can cause all sorts of problems. I do recommend the factory part ($7.50 for my truck). The hose I used was off the the roll at the parts store but it eventually molded itself to the perfect shape.
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Old 05-08-2005, 01:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Im with Rycam on this one. The thing about that which stuck with me is the fact that you say it fires right up once you unscrew the oil cap.
Perhaps your PCV valve is sticking and when you unscrew the oil cap it allows the pressure to be released.
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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fuel smell can be from charcoal canister
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Old 05-10-2005, 08:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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2nd Generation

it smells the most around the injectors but that is close to that ventilation hose could that be the reason for the gas smell after replacing the vent. hose the smell has gone away some what isnt nearlly as strong and for the not want to start it hasnt acted up to where i have to unscrew the oil cap but isnt want to start on first 2 turns of the key always the third

Last edited by bikerider; 05-10-2005 at 08:23 PM.
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