89 toyota truck stalls out on start up.

[molcanic44]

89 toyota pick up(22re manual) is stalling on me on start up.idle for 3-5 seconds then stalls.have checked for air leaks and found no prob.

[qsd-dan]

[QUOTE=molcanic44]89 toyota pick up(22re manual) is stalling on me on start up.idle for 3-5 seconds then stalls.have checked for air leaks and found no prob.[/QUOTE ]


Have you jumped the diagnostic connector and checked for codes? Does it stall when the motor is hot or cold? Can you get it to run for longer periods of time if you throttle it? These symptoms sound like the possibility of the following parts malfunctioning: fuel pump, fuel pump relay, computer, ignitor, coil, AFM (air flow meter), distributor, cold start injector and cold start injector time switch (if stalling when cold), EFI relay, circut opening relay, EGR stuck open and probably some others that I can't think of at this time. These can be narrowed down with more detailed info of your problem. Let us know

[molcanic44]

Its stalls when its cold havent been able to drive it because of other problems.Anyways,i did check for an engine code and none came up.However i did get a code when the engine was running (was throttling it from stalling out)and the only code it throw was 51.I checked the cold start injector and it seems to be working fine also the tps and the air flow sensor tested fine. As far as the egr i have not ran a test ue to the fact that i dont have the correct tool.But i am told that the auxilary air meter might possibly be the cause.Was wondering if their is a test or a way could possibly repair or overhaul it .So i will keep you posted on my progress.Hopefully someone with an identical problem will come across this post.

[qsd-dan]

So once it warms up it's fine? If this is the case, that REALLY narrows it down.

It very well could be the aux air valve, but they rarely go bad. What usually does occur, however, is the passages leading to the air vavle in the throtle body get plugged and the air valve isn't able to supply additional air to increase the idle. To check the orfices, remove the air intake hose to the thottle body. Feel around the left side, inside of the throttle body and you should feel a couple of orfices there near the idle ajustment screw. Grab a flahlight and see if they're plugged. To clean the orfices, remove the rubber hose leading to the air vave (so it doesn't short the electrical part of the air vavle out) and liberally spray all of the orfices. I went as far as removing the idle adjustment screw and cleaning that area as well.

I did this several years ago, and my cold fast idle returned after disappearing years before. The idle smoothed out and I got an increase in gas milage as well.

[molcanic44]

No,it wont hold fires and as well.molcanic44

[molcanic44]

sorry for the typos.i meant to say it wont hold idle and when i do throttle it.it slightly misfires.when i stop throtling it,it dies and kinda diesel when it dies.

[xory4x4]

Just wondering if you ever got your engine started and running. I am having the same problem and cannot figure it out. I have checked my entire fuel path (Pump, Filter, Pressure Reg. and injectors) and everything is good there. I am about to move to the EFI system and check the sensos and relays etc.
If you did get it running for more then 5 secs please let me know what it was. I have the exact same thing happening to my 86 4x4 and am scatching my head on this one. I have not gotten the ECU readings.

I look forward to someones help!

xory4x4

[tcr22]

could it be cold injeters?

[xory4x4]

Do you think? I have not check the reading on them yet, but I do plan to check all the sensors and solinoids tonight. I brough home my ohm meter I can do that now. Last night I got half way through replacing all my Vacum hoses etc. I have not started the motor yet but will try tonight.
If anyone has any insight on this, please help???

[xory4x4]

Hey everyone! OK ... I got it running last night! Finally I figured it out. Looks like it was a combination of things but in the end I can narrow it down to two areas! The first was I replaced the distributor and rotor. Old old one did not seem bad so I figured for $10 I'd do it anyways. Then I replaced all the vacum hoses that lead to the Intake manifold / EFI. Then turned the key ... it ran!

Just wanted to share this info incase others have the same problem. I would say that the vacum lines were the big issue. Most of mine were dried up and brittle. Hope this post helps otheres out there.

xory4x4
New Bern, NC

[snowboarder2359]

check your firing order or timing