22re maintenance at 200,000

[charlie9g]

have a '95 4x4 pickup 22re motor with 200k and need advice and suggestions. i am going to get a timing chain kit with steel guides from engnbldr. people have advised that it is wise to do the head gasket at this time as many 22r motors need them at about 180,000 so while it's open that will be done.
while the water pump is off i'll replace it as it is original. any suggestions on where to get it?
is it worthwhile to replace the O2 sensors, my truck has two, one before and one after the cat convertor, and the check engine light has been on for over 100,000 miles. my truck will pass inspection without them, in new york now '96 and newer vehicles will not pass with the check engine light on. if i need them, where is the best place to get them?
anything else should be done at this time?
this is one kick butt reliable truck. these people have made a lifelong toyota customer out of me, i have had this truck and a '92 corolla my daughter totalled.
thanks, chuck

[mburdick]

I have a 2000 Tacoma 3.4 that the Check Engine light came on. AutoZone told me it was a bad O2 sensor as it read "bank 1 lean" on their tool. Then, they cleared the code and the light went out. About two weeks later, the light came back on.

I was an hour from home, and was eperiecing a very bad vibration in the truck. I found a local dealer and had the problem addressed. While they had it, they did a quick check for me and found that my Mass Air Flow sensor was dirty and that was causing the check engine light to be on.

They cleaned the sensor and I haven't had a problem since. They told me that I was fortunate the the light was the only issue. The MAF sensor got dirty becuase something got by my air filter...

[qsd-dan]

Engnblder has a wonderful timing kit. There is a great writeup on how to replace the timing chain here.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

Rodger even tells you where the hidden tiiming cover bolt is which isn't even mentioned in the toyota service manual. Make sure to note where EVERY bolt goes in the timing cover! The best way is to make a rough drawing of the timing cover on a piece of cardboard and stick each bolt through the cardoboard as you remove the one by one. Nearly all of the bolts are different lengths and even one misplaced bolt can destroy the timing components.

O2 sensors become contaminated with carbon and over time they start to give inaccurate readings which tend to make the motor run rich. This is the reason why they need replacement every 60,000 miles. Even if the manufactor indicates replacement at 100,000 miles, which has just recently been the new following for some models, replace them at 60,000....it makes a difference.

If you desire to tinker around even more, check and adjust the TPS sensor. These go out of adjustment and cause anything from a rough and varying idle, to poor performance and fuel milage. Here is the write up on this, but you may need to look up the specs for your particular year as this write up is dealing with an 85.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

In regards to your water pump and headgasket (do not use anything but a genuine toyota headgasket!!), the best place I've found for genuine toyota replacement parts is http://1sttoyotaparts.com/. They have the cheapest prices available anywhere!

Good luck!!

Dan

[Sidney]

1)Replace both oxygen sensors
2)Replace headgasket
3)replace alternator carbon brushes
4)Replace starter copper contacts
5)Lube brake bleeder screws
6)sandblast frame specially back frames if you live in an area where it snows and road salt is used then coat frame with http://www.por15.com

read below for complete details of the above info and for brand name & sources to buy the best parts at the lowest prices.

From my/others experience/research purchase an o2 sensor in the following order:

1)Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso)
2)Denso aftermarket (Same as original but sold aftermarket)
3)NTK (oxygen sensor division of NGK)

Available at:

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html (10% shipping by Fed Ex)
http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com (free shipping with $100 & over)
http://www.Toyotaparts4U.com
http://www.toyotaofplano.com
http://www.densoaftermarket.com
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com

Most engine wear on any engine occurs at startup with that said the R series Toyota engines such as the 18R,20R and 22R all use a timing chain which it's tension is supplied by hydraulically driven timing chain tensioner which has it's oil pressure build up few seconds after the engine has started therefore the timing chain rubs on the driver's side brown colored nylon/plastic timing chain dampener or guide and after so many miles (140-170 000 miles in the city with the average 4 starts per day) the driver's side guide breaks through causing the chain to rub on the timing chain cover for the first few seconds upon startup and when driving in 5th gear and letting off the gas.
Usually by this point the other timing components such as the camshaft sprocket,crankshaft sprocket and chain have their specs out of tolerance and hence must be replaced as well.The tensioner sometimes sticks due to dirt build up and other problems arise as well and must be replaced as well,all of those parts are sold in the aftermarket world as a "timing chain kit" which also include gaskets and a front oil crankshaft seal.Toyota on the other hand for some reason does not sell the parts as a kit but as individual parts which would cost around $400+ and from all of the reading I have done on many Toyota 4-Runner/pickup discussion sites I have come to the conclusion that many experienced off-roaders who cannot afford to buy all of the genuine Toyota timing parts instead buy the chain and tensioner from Toyota and the other parts from aftermarket as a kit but of course don't use the aftermarket chain or tensioner.
The best brand of aftermarket timing chain parts to use on the 20R & 22R series Toyota motors are:

http://www.engnbldr.com/ToyotaHotlicks.htm
http://www.22r.biz/
http://www.rpmrons.com/toyotatiming.html
http://www.toyota-engine-parts.com/
http://www.europeanautomotive.com

and if you choose to buy from Toyota these places have the best prices in the USA & probably the whole world:

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html (10% shipping)
http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com (free shipping with $100 & up)
http://www.Toyotaparts4U.com
http://www.toyotaofplano.com

Other ways to check timing chain wear are:

http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm

you can also remove the valve cover and take a flashlight and see if the driver's side timing chain dampener or guide wore through.

You can bend 1 to all 8 valves and have timing cover eaten through if you wait and then coolant and oil mix together to give you butterflies in your stomach.You can do a fluid analysis on your engine oil by going to any Caterpillar and buying a fluid analysis kit for around $15-20 and taking a sample of your old oil.

Finally these sites explain the timing chain replacement well:

http://yotarepair.com/22R%20timingchain.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/ http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...torbrushes.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...nateur_kzj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166525
Rebuild your own alternator
http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/art...lternator.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...c/altrnatr.htm

For decoding the dashboard lights:

http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternator_faults.htm
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozir...alternator.htm

Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724
AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip)
Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder)
Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip)
Beck Arnley # 178-1376
Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip)
Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair
Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000
Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000
Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000
Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000
Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA)
Echlin # ECHE601
Echlin # EC480
Echlin # ECHE480
GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip)
GM # 94123056
GM # 96054118
Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72
Honda # 31144-PD1-0040
Honda # 31144-PD1-0030
Honda # 31150-PR7-A01
Honda # 31150-PTO-003
Hino Industries # 021660-0390
Hino Industries # 021660-0510
Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0
Mazda # 021660-0390
Mazda # 021660-0510
Mazda # KL47-18-W75
Mileage Plus # E601SB
Mitsubishi # MD604474
Mitsubishi # 21660-0510
Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip)
NipponDenso # 021660-0390
NipponDenso # 021660-0510
Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip)
Subaru # 021660-0390
Subaru # 021660-0510
Suzuki # 31631-82610
Suzuki # 31656-82611
Suzuki # 021660-0510
Toyota # 27370-42010
Toyota # 27370-75060
Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip)
Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511)
Toyota # 27371-76004-71
UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB
Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire)
Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Specifications:
Length=15 mm
Width=7 mm
Thickness=5 mm
Lead length=49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped
1990-93 Acura Integra

15 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites:

http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/tech/starter/ -
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://char.tuiasi.ro/vw/reality/rog...s/Starter.html
http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...rterrepair.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...r/haveblue.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical...er_rebuild.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/image...ded%20view.jpg
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/star..._contacts.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/starter.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/start_bj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166530
Repair your own STARTER
http://www.toyotanation.com/showthre...312&forumid=10

Starter contact kits:

Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511)

For others besides 22R series:

Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC)
Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and gasket)
Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70)
Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80)
Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)

Starter contacts only:

Toyota # 28226-70040
Wilson’s Electric # 45-29-652

Starter brushes:

AC Delco # D762
GP Sorensen # 255048
Standard # JX-117

Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 244 000 KM

[fj40supraman]

Dan above is right on.
I get my oxygen sensors from www.sparkplugs.com, but they only have NGK and Denso
(Use coupon code "dodgetalk" to get extra 10% off(Japanese) and not Bosch. I just get the universal ones and wire them myself. I seal them with hot glue to avoid corrosion. Good luck getting them out, hope you have acetylene. I had a 22re and it was a damn good engine. Only thing I ever had to do to it was change an external bearing of which I got for $10 at the junkyard.

[humanoid]

Holy 2 year old threads, Batman!