Still have noisy valves...help!

[tackepj]

Hi, I'm new to this board. I have a 94 22RE with about 130000 miles on it. The valve were last adjusted (not by me) at around 80000, so I thought I would give it a try. The procedure went smoothly, although it felt like most of the adjustment screws needed to be backed out a little bit. When I put it all back together again, it runs noiser than before I started! Now it sounds like a diesel.

Is there any trick that I should know before I tear it apart again tonight? Can't think of what I could have done wrong...I used a new metric feeler gauge, did it while the engine was hot, etc. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[Mushroom_Toy]

Just did this earlier this month and had same problem. Make sure you tighten them to the point where there is only the slightest clearence. the drag on the feeler guage needs to be hard. Make sure the feeler guage barely pulls in and out. If they are too loose they are extremely noisy. I adjusted mine 4 times before I finally got the correct adjustments.

[tackepj]

Thanks for the tip. Turns out that the Haynes manual had the wrong clearances in it. I called my local dealer and he told me it was 0.008/0.012 cold or 0.007/0.011 hot, but the Haynes manual said 0.008/0.012 hot. I ended up loosening just about all of them, and as you said, it was noisy as hell. Did it again last night and it's much better. I still have one or two still a little "off", so I'll try again this weekend, but so far so good. I bet just one is still too loose.

I noticed I still have the plastic timing chain guides in mine. Did they ever recall these or upgrade the guides to metal? My chain still looks OK but the guide on the right rides damn close to the chain.

[Rycam]

22r/22re valvetrain noise will never be totally eliminated because these engines were originally designed in the 1970's.

Go to the TOYOTA DEALER, and get these two rings that fit on the INTAKE sides of cylinders #2 and #3!

http://www.wheelingadventures.com/Tech/Fixs.htm

These work wonders, and are only $5 each. Rocker tips are $4 each at the dealer, and I will NOT take the time to tell you what happens with aftermarket parts (boring stuff). Just believe me when I tell you that this simple part is of a specific alloy. You may need only two for the intake side on cylinders #2 and #3 anyway.

[Rycam]

Originally Posted by tackepj

I noticed I still have the plastic timing chain guides in mine. Did they ever recall these or upgrade the guides to metal? My chain still looks OK but the guide on the right rides damn close to the chain.

The original, smaller/older 20r engine DID HAVE METAL CHAIN GUIDES! They also had heavier steel rocker arms (with less lift ratio). Aftermarket steel guides are available for the 22r/re engines.

[Mushroom_Toy]

Originally Posted by tackepj

Thanks for the tip. Turns out that the Haynes manual had the wrong clearances in it. I called my local dealer and he told me it was 0.008/0.012 cold or 0.007/0.011 hot, but the Haynes manual said 0.008/0.012 hot. I ended up loosening just about all of them, and as you said, it was noisy as hell. Did it again last night and it's much better. I still have one or two still a little "off", so I'll try again this weekend, but so far so good. I bet just one is still too loose.

I noticed I still have the plastic timing chain guides in mine. Did they ever recall these or upgrade the guides to metal? My chain still looks OK but the guide on the right rides damn close to the chain.

Woah woah woah, wait a sec. It is .008/.012 hot, and .007/.011 cold. Do it when it's up to normal operating temps for best results. But for the most part you can feel when they are too tight or too loose. You definately need to replace the chain guide. If it hasn't happened yet, it will break. Only a matter of time. And you can get steel guides at www.engnbldr.com this is the best place to get them. While you're at it you might want to look into getting a double row timing chain set from www.lcengineering.com , although it's not neccesary.