does anybody know how many links are in a 1989 2wd 22re truck timing chain. Got mine yesterday from engnbldr. Put it on the motor minus the side rails and tensioner and it seemed loose. Although the other components tightened it up a bit . I put the chain on the sprockets first then installed on crank and camshaft ends and went on really easy. everything I've read says its hard to put on. Anyway that leads me to the question again. How many links are in a timing chain? Oh the motor is stock.Don't know if there all the same or not. Thanks in advance. Turmoline
Do you have the tensioner on as well? It won't be loose when that is on. How about the side rails? It should be a bit difficult to put the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft if you have all the parts on.
There are two different ways of doing the job, removing the head and not removing the head. If you remove the head you put the timing chain cover on before the head so the tensioner will be on. In that case it is difficult to put the camshaft sprocket on. If you did not remove the head you won't have that problem. Removing the head is the "correct" method but you can get away without doing so. If you don't, make sure you have the correct gasket thickness on the top of the timing chain cover when you put it back on. You may want to buy a head gasket and cut off the part you need.
I used engnbldr's parts and the only problem I had was that the new Rock timing cover did not align with my oil pan very well. I had to file the holes in the pan a bit. If I was to do it again I would look for a used Toyota cover on eBay. I had to replace mine because the broken chain whipped around and broke the cover. Can't beat engnbldr's prices and customer service though.
yah after I put the side rails and the tensioner on it did tighten the chain up a bit. was wondering if it was normal to be loose without those components on. I did remove the head in doing this job. I purchased most of the parts ie. full gasket set,timing cover, and timing set through engnbldr. At first they sent me the wrong crank sprocket .120 undersized crankshaft bore. When they sent the kit back and the chain was loose I got a little suspicious. Thanks for the reply. Turmoline
Most engine wear on any engine occurs at startup with that said the R series Toyota engines such as the 18R,20R and 22R all use a timing chain which it's tension is supplied by hydraulically driven timing chain tensioner which has it's oil pressure build up few seconds after the engine has started therefore the timing chain rubs on the driver's side brown colored nylon/plastic timing chain dampener or guide and after so many miles (140-170 000 miles in the city with the average 4 starts per day) the driver's side guide breaks through causing the chain to rub on the timing chain cover for the first few seconds upon startup and when driving in 5th gear and letting off the gas.
Usually by this point the other timing components such as the camshaft sprocket,crankshaft sprocket and chain have their specs out of tolerance and hence must be replaced as well.The tensioner sometimes sticks due to dirt build up and other problems arise as well and must be replaced as well,all of those parts are sold in the aftermarket world as a "timing chain kit" which also include gaskets and a front oil crankshaft seal.Toyota on the other hand for some reason does not sell the parts as a kit but as individual parts which would cost around $400+ and from all of the reading I have done on many Toyota 4-Runner/pickup discussion sites I have come to the conclusion that many experienced off-roaders who cannot afford to buy all of the genuine Toyota timing parts instead buy the chain and tensioner from Toyota and the other parts from aftermarket as a kit but of course don't use the aftermarket chain or tensioner.
The best brand of aftermarket timing chain parts to use on the 20R & 22R series Toyota motors are:
you can also remove the valve cover and take a flashlight and see if the driver's side timing chain dampener or guide wore through.
You can bend 1 to all 8 valves and have timing cover eaten through if you wait and then coolant and oil mix together to give you butterflies in your stomach.You can do a fluid analysis on your engine oil by going to any Caterpillar and buying a fluid analysis kit for around $15-20 and taking a sample of your old oil.
Finally these sites explain the timing chain replacement well:
Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 245 000 KM
You must be the other gentleman who got a kit that was packed with an Acura gear by accident, the other one went to Italy which was just swell. *Sorry about the error, I will have everyone shot.
*Just two so far out of the last 100 sets but we now check them all.
On the links, the late set has 96 links, it will feel loose until the tensioner is in place. The tensioner indents slightly which is why the top timing mark will be just left of TDC as you face it.
We find it is helpful to tape the tensioner arm back during install, then torque the holdown bolts to 12 ft lbs, assure the top oil pump bolt does not protrude through the cover and jam the tensioner arm. Then check to make sure a small amount of the tensioner shaft shows to make sure nothing is jammed. Lastly, look at it from the side to assure proper alignment.
The system operates on oil pressure so it could feel slightly slack, this is no problem. Note if the head/block have been resurfaced, this will affect the amount of slack in the chain at rest. if that comes out excessive, then you may need a thicker head gasket or a block saver shim....*EB
Hmmmmmm...........I do know that eventually timing chains do need to be changed, but interesting how when I shopped Gen 4 Camry's against Nissan Altima's more than a few Nissan dealers told me things like.......
"Altima uses a timing chain so you never need to change it!........"
In hindsight.........Timing Chain = "Timing Belt that lasts just a little longer"!
My 1983 Toyota Pickup was making a loud rattling noise under the hood.The engine has over 500,000 miles on it. Just as my Wife and I got to the edge of town,the engine stopped running and would not start. We called a tow truck and now it sits in my backyard. I suspect it was the Timing chain as the problem happened once before. We took it to the shop back then and with parts and labor costs ran around $900.00- $1,200.00. I guess when that chain broke,it messed up a lot of intricate,sensitive parts. I know a little bit about Toyota's and I'm still learning. Mine's usually held together with Bondo and plywood due to all of the rust. Living on a restricted income sure makes it tough. Glad I still have my Mt. Bike on hand Have a great Day!
Sorry to jump in here but I seem to have the opposite problem with my 22R timing chain. I put a new timing chain on and it was so tight I had trouble. The book said to put the timing chain on than the tensioner. The chain went on fine but I would not compress the tensioner enough to slide it on. I ended up lifting the rear of the head installed the tenioner and than installed the chain. I than put all my weight on the head and tightened the head bolts so the head would stay down. The tensioner is now fully compressed and the rubber of the tensioner is compressed also. The chain is super tight as well. I got the chain off ebay for short change. Is this correct? Did I get the correct chain? Is it possible to force a shorter 20R timing chain onto a 22R? Should the chain streatch a bit when first used?
I haven't tried to start the motor yet. I need to lash the valves, flush the water lines in the block install the rad and than it wil be ready to start. I just want to make sure I am not going to have any problems and have to start this 4 month project over again.
Thank you
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'93 Ge-ota Corr-izm (totaled)
'87 Toyota P/U 22r (sold)
'09 Corolla S (g/f's)
2 non Toyota's
Sorry to jump in here but I seem to have the opposite problem with my 22R timing chain. I put a new timing chain on and it was so tight I had trouble. The book said to put the timing chain on than the tensioner. The chain went on fine but I would not compress the tensioner enough to slide it on. I ended up lifting the rear of the head installed the tenioner and than installed the chain. I than put all my weight on the head and tightened the head bolts so the head would stay down. The tensioner is now fully compressed and the rubber of the tensioner is compressed also. The chain is super tight as well. I got the chain off ebay for short change. Is this correct? Did I get the correct chain? Is it possible to force a shorter 20R timing chain onto a 22R? Should the chain streatch a bit when first used?
I haven't tried to start the motor yet. I need to lash the valves, flush the water lines in the block install the rad and than it wil be ready to start. I just want to make sure I am not going to have any problems and have to start this 4 month project over again.
Thank you
Whoa, that sounds way too tight. I would double check the number of links in that chain.
could it be possible that you have the chain from the earlier 22r and the 85 - 95 late model 22r or vice versa? the deck heights are a little different if i remember the old block before 85 is a little bit taller. this is the one with round exhaust ports on the head the late model has a pear shaped or tear drop shaped exhaust port where the manifold bolts on.
The old and new timing chains lined up at exactly the same length when I held them side by side. Now that you mention it I had to get a new head as the previous owner drove the truck with a popped radiator and the original head got worped and than actually pitted from sitting over the winter. The new head has the older round ports and the original one had the pear shaped exhaust ports. Were the heads a differant height also?
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'93 Ge-ota Corr-izm (totaled)
'87 Toyota P/U 22r (sold)
'09 Corolla S (g/f's)
2 non Toyota's
Check the 2 links out, They'll give you some insight on just how much diference there are on the 2 heads dimensions and the deck heights of the blocks.
__________________
"Price reflects quality- You get what you pay for!"
I am starting to think I am scr%wed again. I'm gonna talk with the guys at LCE and a guy localy that deals with Toyota and see what I can't come up with.
Called and got some good news. All I have to do is have the head planed down 160-180 thousandths. $30 at local machine shop
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'93 Ge-ota Corr-izm (totaled)
'87 Toyota P/U 22r (sold)
'09 Corolla S (g/f's)
2 non Toyota's
Ok.
From what I found out all I have to do is get the head milled down to the stock height.
Now do I have it set to the factory 3.130" height or do I go a bit shorter to bump up the compression? Would 10-15 hundreths (0.010" - 0.015") cause any noticable power increase? Would it require the use of premium gas or higher than 87 octain?
And I also found our that:
83-84 22R has 98 links in timing chain
85-95 22R/RE has 96 Links in timing chain
They shortened the height of both the block and the head in 85. I would have liked to have known that a few months ago.
__________________
'93 Ge-ota Corr-izm (totaled)
'87 Toyota P/U 22r (sold)
'09 Corolla S (g/f's)
2 non Toyota's
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