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Old 09-16-2005, 09:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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USA How do I set the valves on my 84' truck

I bought a 4X4 84' toyota 2.4L 22R from my uncle.....he rebuilt the motor but didn't adjust the valves on it. He was gonna do this for me but I can't wait for him. I just wanted to know how so I can go ahead and get this thing in the mud. I've been told that I have to set them when it cold then set them after the motor is hot.....??? Is this correct....?? Also I have no clue as to where to even start.....is this something I'm gonna do with a torgue wrench or do I use shims to do this......I have a book but it doesn't tell me how or where to start....just wanted to see if someone on here has some info, diagram, website, or can just explain it to me so I can get this truck in the mud......any help will be well appreciated.....Thanks Jonathan
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Old 09-16-2005, 01:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I need to do the same thing.

From what I read you need to set the motor at TDC and than adjust, with a fealer guage, 1/2 the valves(my book said what valves to do, yours should also). Than turn the motor over 180*(degrees) and do the other 1/2 of the valves.

There is a nut you loosten and that turn a screw with a flat blade and tighten the nut when it is set.
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Old 09-17-2005, 09:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Get a Chilton or Haynes manual. If you are willing and able to do this level of service, that is something beyond oil and filter changes, you really need a book. They are less than $20.

I had an '84 and dont rembember if the valve adjustment was cold or hot. The difference is very important. My new 2005 Tundra lists a cold setting on the under hood sticker.

That 1984 22R had aluminum instead of iron rockers, that is why they "clatter" a little more than others when out of adjustment. The important thing to remember about non-hydraulic valvetrain is that loose is better than tight. Loose valves make noise and a little less power, tight valves burn.
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Old 09-17-2005, 12:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It's not that hard of a job at all the only pain is that you DO have to do it while it's at operating temp., that sucks here in Phoenix. after you do it 2-3 times youll be able to complete it in a half hour. if your engine isnt running yet I'm not sure what youll need to do to get it to temp but heres what you do when its warm.
Remove valve cover, get you #1 cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. turn the harmonic balancer bolt until the mark on your crank pulley lines up with the "0". if the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder aren't loose then take that pulley around 360 degrees til the marks line up again. when the #1 rockers are loose this is #1 TDC. the clearences should be 0.008 for intake and 0.012 for exhaust. Now on #1 TDC adjust both valves on #1, intake on #2, and exhaust on #3. Now rotate the crank pulley 360 degrees again and adjust the others,they'll be #2 exhaust, #3 intake, #4 intake and exhaust. you loosen the locknut with a 12 mm wrench while holding a flathead on the screw with your other hand. loosen the wrench, loosen or tighten the screw, tighten the wrench, then check clearence again til their all correct. then put it all back together. one note, if there's too much clearence they chatter, if there's not enough clearence the exhaust valves don't stay closed long enough to keep cool and they burn up.
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