Here are some good starters:
1)check all 6 spark plugs,rotor & distributor cap
2)clean throttle body
3)pull the ECU codes
3)Replace front (exhaust/front pipe)oxygen sensor
4)replace alternator carbon brushes
5)Replace starter copper contacts
6)Lube brake bleeder screws,other parts including rubber suspension parts & spare tire assembly
7)Check 5 speed manual tranny pilot shift lever bushing & seat for excesssive wear and in auto tranny CHANGE THE FLUID to avoid shift solenoids from going bad
8)Replace timing belt &
BOTH IDLER BEARINGS
9)sandblast frame specially back frames if you live in an area where it snows and road salt is used then coat frame with
http://www.por15.com
And in detail below are the above info:
Check all 4 or 6 spark plugs,rotor & distributor cap.Then clean the throttle body and replace the oxygen sensor.Also pull the ECU codes incase a part is an electronic sensor is faulty or bad wiring.
Usually excessive short trip city miles combined with low octane gasoline causes excessive carbon build up in the throttle body which does not allow sufficient airflow and hence the butterfly flap/accelerator plate to close all the way.
To clean the throttle body remove the air intake hose and examine the intake and throttle body for excessive carbon build if found then buy a can of throttle body cleaner labeled "safe on oxygen sensors,TPS's and catalytic converters" do not use carb cleaner make sure your engine is fully warmed up prior to using as when the throttle body is hot it dissolves the carbon easily and quickly.The labels usually specify to park the vehicle at ground level (0 degrees,no inclination) and have the engine running but I disagree I instead park the vehicle on a hill facing down and shut the engine off and hold a rag below the lip of the throttle body and poor the stuff and use a tooth brush.
About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.
To pull the ECU codes:
All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-90.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...ct/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/t...tml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://members.igateway.net/~pscott/enginecodes.html
http://www.autobook.co.kr/data_links...uble_codes.htm
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...E/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm
Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.
The oxygen sensor is replaced for free in the USA only when the vehicle reaches it's first 80 000 miles regardless of the age & number of owners as stated in the factory owner's manual in the maintenance section,some Toyota dealerships are reluctant to replace it for free if that happens contact the Toyota regional head office for your region where they will give your local dealership 48 hours to comply.
On average the oxygen sensors should be replaced every 6 years or 100 000 miles or so which ever comes first as stated in the owner's manual,warranty booklet and factory service manual.
Symptoms of a bad o2 sensor are poor gas mileage,hesistation in acceleration,worse emmissions,and in severe cases after the stat opens the engine can no longer maintain stable 750 rpm (with manual 5 spd tranny) idle and the engine begins to stall.
The 02 sensor is designed to function once the vehicle has warmed up which is about after 10 minutes where the thermostat begins to open at 190 or 195 degrees Ferenheit depending on thermostat then the vehicles ECU system enters what they call a "closed loop system" then the exhaust manifold's temperature reaches 400 degree Ferenheit (I think)that's where the sensor starts to do it's job which is usually when the thermostat first opens up then the oxygen sensor senses the ratio of air to fuel and sends a signal back to the ECU then ECU compensates by increasing or decrease the open time for the fuel injectors to pump fuel.So usually the problem of stalling shows up after about 10 minutes of driving or so.Many folks think that the o2 sensor is bad but an exhaust leak can cause excess oxygen to enter the exhaust system thereby fooling the sensor into thinking there is too much oxygen,there are other problems that could cause it to give false reading such as a vaccuum leak.
If you discover that the o2 sensor is bad and it is not under warranty then from my/others experience/research purchase an o2 sensor in the following order:
1)Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso)
2)Denso aftermarket (Same as original but sold aftermarket)
3)NTK (oxygen sensor division of NGK)
Available at:
http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html (10% shipping by Fed Ex or free shipping with $100 & over speak to Roger at 1-888-271-3948
http://www.Toyotaparts4U.com
http://www.toyotaofplano.com
http://www.densoaftermarket.com
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com
before you replace the oxygen sensor soak the 14 mm brass nuts with any of these deep penetrating oils several times for several hours:
1)PB Blaster
2)Liquid Wrench
3)Kroil Oil
4)Aero Kroil & Sili Kroil
5)Toyota Rust Penetrant or High Performance Penetrating lube
6)Rust Check
the first ones being the best,also if you decide you need new ones here is the Toyota part for the exhaust manifold (brass)nuts # 90179-10175 (14 mm socket)
If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.
For carbon brushes R&R:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/ http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...torbrushes.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...nateur_kzj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166525
Rebuild your own alternator
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...r+brush+holder
http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/art...lternator.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...c/altrnatr.htm
For decoding the dashboard lights:
http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternator_faults.htm
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozir...alternator.htm
Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.
Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:
Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN
Honda # 31105-PZ1-003
Metro # 39-82003 (
www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Unknown brand name # F4019-53035
Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):
AC Delco # E724
AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip)
Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder)
Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip)
Beck Arnley # 178-1376
Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip)
Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair
Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000
Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000
Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000
Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000
Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA)
Echlin # ECHE601
Echlin # EC480
Echlin # ECHE480
GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip)
GM # 94123056
GM # 96054118
Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72
Honda # 31144-PD1-0040
Honda # 31144-PD1-0030
Honda # 31150-PR7-A01
Honda # 31150-PTO-003
Hino Industries # 021660-0390
Hino Industries # 021660-0510
Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0
Mazda # 021660-0390
Mazda # 021660-0510
Mazda # KL47-18-W75
Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip) (
www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Mileage Plus # E601SB
Mitsubishi # MD604474
Mitsubishi # 21660-0510
Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip)
NipponDenso # 021660-0390
NipponDenso # 021660-0510
Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip)
Subaru # 021660-0390
Subaru # 021660-0510
Suzuki # 31631-82610
Suzuki # 31656-82611
Suzuki # 021660-0510
Toyota # 27370-42010
Toyota # 27370-75060
Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip)
Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511)
Toyota # 27371-76004-71
UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB
Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire)
Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)
Specifications:
Length=15 mm
Width=7 mm
Thickness=5 mm
Lead length=49 mm
These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:
1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped
1990-93 Acura Integra
15 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites:
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/tech/starter/ -
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://char.tuiasi.ro/vw/reality/rog...s/Starter.html
http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...rterrepair.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...r/haveblue.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical...er_rebuild.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/image...ded%20view.jpg
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/star..._contacts.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/starter.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/start_bj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166530
Repair your own STARTER
http://www.toyotanation.com/showthre...312&forumid=10
Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):
Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) (
www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511)
For others besides 22R series:
Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC)
Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and gasket)
Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70)
Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80)
Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)
Starter contacts only (8mm ID hole):
Ace Electric # S-5231
Ace Electric # S-5293 (crescent moon shape)
Ace Electric # S-5295 (crescent moon shape)
Metro # 66-82106 (
www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Tons more at:
http://www.metroautoinc.com/PDF%20Fi...%20Contact.pdf
Toyota # 28226-70040
Wilson’s Electric # 45-29-652
Starter brushes:
AC Delco # D762
GP Sorensen # 255048
Standard # JX-117
Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.
To check the pilot shift lever bushing & seat in the 5 speed manual tranny:
Shift lever pilot bushing # 33548-31010 (green)=$7 CDN
Shift lever seat # 33505-35020 or 33505-35030 (white)=$16 CDN
Note: the 2 above #’s fit all trannies:G,R,W series (22R,R-E,3VZE)84-95.5,no need for entire shift lever retainer (85-95.5 pre-Tacoma)
http://www.4runners.org/articles/shift/
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/shifter/index.html
http://www.marlincrawler.com/docs/sh...eat/index.html
This site hass detailed 3VZE timing belt replacement procedures along with the recommended timing belt idler bearing replacements:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/v6tbelt/index.html
Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 245 000 KM
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