Official Performance Mods Thread

[shonuff]

the same basic eng bay/drive train is present in:

us years
72-95 pickup (hilux) 2wd
72-85 celica rwd
72-8X corona
lots of little parts like relays, brake master's, speedo cables are interchangeable.


known swaps to fit in same eng bay

chev sbc 350 (bolt in kits for 4x4's)

1,2,3,4,5,6,7m engines use the W series tranny so the bellhousing swap is easy and many have been put in.

2/3rz new tacoma engine that is basically a dual overhead cam 22re

yota V 6,8's

1/2jz

ls1
rotary engines

and loads more or anything you can think of, you can fit anything you want in there, depends on your skill or wallett.

every swap ive mention is somewhere on www.celica-gts.com or www.pirate4x4.com

[gaijin71]

performance mods? for the early coronas? that'll be tough. when i still had my 74, i searched high and low for performance parts. came up empty handed on my end. i had to do custom work for most of the mods.

[73GTV]

[73GTV]

Here is what can be completed from an Old Japanese performance magazine. If you have the ability to collect parts from Japan or other sources than you to can build this as a small power upgrade for your car. It will fit. This was a great idea during the 80"s when these engines where plentiful and everybody in Japan sold engine upgrade parts in almost every speed shop. Complete articles where written with TRD part numbers, HKS part numbers and individual tuning shops where listed in almost every magazine.

Those where the days and I hope that I can convince someone to look deeper in what could have been accomplished had this engines was still a production option. I would have like to see what changes could have been made to explore the its true potential compared to more modern engines.

[gaijin71]

WTF!!!

that's a twin turbo setup! and it looks like it's still on carburators to boot. COOL!
any more info on that twin turbo 18rg?

[79Corona]

Please post your modifications and parts suggestions here. I'd like to keep the stock parts interchangeability separate from modifications. Thanks.

[shonuff]

i also neglected to mention that a carbed camden supercharger w/ a 2xr WILL fit in a EARLY pre-78 corona without struts for a complete bolt in. the EFI version will fit in all models.

[73GTV]

How is your Japanese? The shop address is on the bottom of the picture as well as the phone number. It was only 230 ps which was a lot back then. The info is here, lets see who can translate this first.

[Daddy NS]

Hi guys!

I own an RT130 Wagon and I feel the engine is underpowered on the top end side..



What is your suggestion for an engine swap? 4AGE?

[ddf101]

Need to upgrade my front spring to a much thicker diameter and I was told an early toyota truck will do. Here's what I found recently that has the same 4 1/2" od for the rt105. those aerly ford mazda courier has the same diamter as the rt and much more beef up(thicker). It is also an inch shorter already from stock corona springs.

[Daddy NS]

@ddf101: the diameter looks smaller than that of the RT130..

Hmmmm.. off to the pick-a-part!!!

[79Corona]

Originally Posted by Daddy NS

Hi guys!

I own an RT130 Wagon and I feel the engine is underpowered on the top end side..



What is your suggestion for an engine swap? 4AGE?

Cold air induction doesn't really do much on a carbed engine.

[Daddy NS]

Originally Posted by 79Corona

Cold air induction doesn't really do much on a carbed engine.

Really? I didn't know that

I always thought cooler air provided better combustion

Please explain, I'm at a loss now

[JoeDirtMcD3]

REVIEW: Adjustable Rear Swaybar manufactured by Australian company Whiteline for an AE86 Corolla. Finding more and more parts that are interchangeable between AE86 Corollas and my '81 Corona LE. (Currently preparing an AE86 disc brake LSD rear swap into my Corona, but thats another story)


Here's Whiteline's link: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=BTR25Z

Well I finally shelled out the cash, (under $200 shipped) to George over at Raptor Racing (george@raptorracing.com). SPOILER! I'm extremely satisfied with the experience, though to finish the setup I really need to invest in an LSD differential.



I sent George a heads up email before I sent the paypal payment to make sure he had what I needed (Whiteline BTR25Z). Sure enough he did, so I sent the funds his way and waited. Less than a week later the kit shows up at the house and goes in the trunk of the Corona so i can install it at work..... There it sat for a couple of days because school started so I had'nt been working much anymore. Had a free evening the one night so I popped it in at home.

The kit comes with a steroid abusing 20mm sway bar with several mounting holes to adjust stiffness, as well as the appropriate brackets, nuts, and bolts. The install was fairly straightforward, only a few slight issues. It turns out the D swaybar bushings that came with the kit were too small for the Corona's bushing cups/retainers (whatever you want to call them) and I wasn't just about to let it be all-sloppy and loose in there. I 'm guessing they would be the proper size for an AE86. My fix was to cut a few sections (approx. 2" lengths) of an old serpentine belt and lay them between the yellow bushing and curved retainer. This worked perfectly and took up all the necessary slop and left a tight finish.

Then I ran into the problem involving the chassis mounting brackets. These brackets are included because the method Whiteline uses to attach the swaybar to the chassis is different than Toyota's method. The bolt holes on these brackets did not coincide with the holes in the Corona's chassis. The AE86 Corolla's mounting holes must be spread differently.

Not to worry, there was plenty of extra material on these brackets to drill into. I took the originaly Toyota brackets that I had just removed and set them on top of the Whiteline pieces. I marked the center of each of 2 holes using a sharpie so that there would be enough material around each hole to be strong enough. I then got the punch out and made some dimples. I then drilled these holes out to the proper size, God knows what size it was. I've long since forgot. Started my holes with a small bit, something smaller than a 1/4" bit is good to start with. The final hole size is probably M10 or something around there, probably a 13/32" drill bit.

Oh, I FINALLY also ran into some issues getting the sway bar fully bolted up, but this was my own idiocy. The car was not sitting perfectly level as I had one side of the axle higher than the other. This was causing the sway bar to have preloaded tension and I didn't understand why it would not line up on both sides easily. DUH!



The car has MAJORLY less body roll on the street and highway when cornering at speed. The main goal I was shooting for was to stiffen up the rear end to improve the car's ability to drift as well as reduce body roll. I installed the swaybar at maximum tension from the start and it sure is tight. So tight that I don't doubt I could put it sideways on just about every entrance or exit ramp from the local highway, if I wanted to.

The car is much more predictable when attempting to begin a drift and requires little to no flick to begin, very contrary to the car's behavior prior. However, without LSD differential, it is still difficult to shift the drift's direction as the open differential causes unstable reactions. This effect could also be due to my driving style or other kinks the car has - not blaming the sway bar.

I highly recommend this kit if you are looking to improve your Corona's maneuverability!

Thanks for reading.
Joe

[Daddy NS]

NIce Joe!! I shouldn't have let go of my RT130 Sedan.. my Rt130 wagon is on rear end leaf springs.. too bumpy