turbo 4cyl RWD toyota motor?

[JoeDirtMcD3]

Hey guys, I've been absent from posting for the past few months mainly due to my purchase of a 1987 NA Supra with the 7MGE motor and W58 trans. It interupted my plans for a 5 speed swap and motor change, not to mention AE86 rear axle swap with disc brakes. I got this big plan to swap a 2JZGTE and R154 5 speed into the Supra and was looking into that. Now I'm selling the Supra because my dad is forcing me to, otherwise I wont be able to borrow money from him for this fall's tuition.

Anyway, I can't think of any well known / reliable 4 cylinder Toyota motors that were turbocharged. I thought the RB20DET Nissan motor was 4 cylinder for weeks until I just discovered its an i6. I have lost some direction as I think the 22r is a dead end for 200+hp. I feel like 200 hp or maybe 250 absolute max at the flywheel would be more than necessary for my corona. I like the W58 enough to want to use it also. Any ideas? I don't know my Toyota motors too well so I'm hoping someone else can shed some light. I don't think a 6 cylinder will fit...

I'd even contemplate a Nissan motor if I had to... I was looking at the RB20 already.

Thanks,
Joe

[SexieWASD]

The RB20DET is my all time favorite motor, because it is a strait six, and yea it's a LONNNNGGG motor, absolutely huge.

3sGTE

I don't think you are going to find what you want for a RWD setup though, I4 is almost always for FWD setups.

You could do what they do for the accord kit cars and massacre the trunk to fit the engine and trans in there, you would need to make a custom engine cradle though, and inspection, registering, and insuring it would be hell.

[Raffaelli]

Dont jump to conclusions about the 22r. Heres the pro's...
-Can keep your w58. (Its plenty strong)
-A 22r came factory turboed.
-Its a super uber tough bottom end.
-Parts are cheap (enginebldr)
-200-250hp has been done.
-Its not a nissan.
-It wouldnt have fitment issues.
-They area torque producing engine.
-Factory forged crank
Cons...
-22rte came with 135hp.
-Has a beast of a flywheel
-Cast pistons.
-Kinda rare, but they can be found.
-The turbo is tiny
-Non intercooled

Personally, Id go the built 22RTE. Forged pistons, balanced bottom end, supra turbo, intercooler, light flywheel, keep it fueled, and it would be a runner. Check out 22rte-trucks.com

[JoeDirtMcD3]

I just don't have much faith in the 22r, I feel like you have to put 5 grand in it just to get 200 horses and even then it won't be reliable. I cant decide, it would be nice to tkeep the Corona Toyota powered, plus the less modification the better as it would keep my father quiet.

I'd have to purchase a w58 and get all the parts necessary to do that swap and then probably start with a 22rte block and work my way up... damn this sounds like a pain in the ace

[79Corona]

If you want a sports car, the Corona may not be the best choice.

[JoeDirtMcD3]

I have my 4.1L buick v6 chevette as my sports car... I don't know what to say to that other than I don't like driving slow cars. Even 50 more horsepower out of my current carb'd 22r would probably shut me up for awhile.

[Raffaelli]

No faith in the 22r.....Tisk Tisk.
Worried about how expensive building this engine? Come on man be practical. Can you even touch a 2jz turbo for less than say 2 grand?

The Nissan 6 is the same way. Ok my rants over.

Is your corona 22r powered already? 4 speed? There is a cheap way to add about 40 hp to it.

[JoeDirtMcD3]

Let's not get judgmental... Yeah I would be payin over $2k, maybe 2500 for a decent 2jz swap - but then I'd have a fairly reliable 300+hp motor stock.

My current setup is a 1981 Toyota Corona thats on its 5th 22R (remanufactured) long block, original intake manifold, original carb, used but "refreshed" K&N Filter element in the original intake. It has the original exhaust manifold, crappy homemade test pipe in place of the Cat (will be replacing the cat ASAP, no real gain without it...), tiny 1.75" exhaust, 2.5" Edelbrock muffler.

The car is by no means fast, though noticeably louder without a catalytic converter. The cat seems to do a lot more muffling than the original muffler itself. The trans seems aged sufficiently past its prime, not that I know how it performed in its prime. Not all of the vacuum hoses are connected, though I know there are no intake leaks after the carb, at least not due to missing vacuum hoses anyway. Just replaced the vacuum advance diaphragm with one out of a 22r pickup (original was leaking).

Recent new plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, radiator cap (old one causing some coolant issues - didnt hold pressure properly)

Starter's goin' out, almost got stranded at PSU Harrisburg today - had to call my friend and ask him to bring a hammer to knock the solenoid into position so she would crank. Worked thankfully, but there's another issue I get to deal with. I got passed by an attractive young woman in a beat up volvo station wagon despite my best efforts to keep her behind me without blatantly cutting her off.

What suggestions do you have for more power now - before I figure out what all I need for turbo time?


P.S. - I have the previous 22R longblock on the engine stand in the garage. There was a knock sound coming from that motor, but all the rod bearings seemed tight, not sure what was causing the noise.

[AK_Highlander]

If you are contemplating a nissan engine, look at a JDM imported SR20DET for a turbo RWD 4-banger.

[Raffaelli]

Let me suggest my setup:




Early 82-84 22R block, 20R Head ported(I did it and its stupid easy).

The exhaust was a huge seat of the pants upgrade, Junkyard 2.25 exhaust and resonators(two of them). Definatly fab something up, stock sucks.

Its no V8, but I'd line it against any other Jap minitruck with hope. Stock valves, springs, and cam pull HARD till 5.5K then hits a wall. It sucks the fuel compeatly out of the carb and can't keep up by 3rd gear.Definatly has more power in it...

You have a spare engine? Lucky. Check crank endplay (front to back movement) Could be your noise

Its not easy to turbo this(my) setup. It would require a custom F.I. intake manifold. Turbo engines are less dependant on port flow, but no way A swirl inducing smogger 22r head flows better than the 20r.

I wish I could TIG weld or I'd have boosted it already.

[2wickedtoyz]

does the 22re intake manifold fit a 20r head? the turbo for the 22rte can be upgraded and made to be more efficient. it just takes time and ideas. keep it toyota

[Raffaelli]

Thats the issue. A 22RE intake does not fit a 20R head. Only carbed 20R manifolds out there.

[JoeDirtMcD3]

Many times I've dreamt of going the 20R hybrid direction, but then there's sourcing a clean and ported 20R head with power steering provision without payin 2000 dollars for one from LC. I guess it wouldnt be too hard to find one from a yard and then port it myself and have it cleaned/cut to be like new. Then I'd need an intake manifold, carb, exhaust manifold, have to get an exhaust, and then worry about what my compression ratio is and what octane rating I should be running. People always talk about pinging when adjusting timing in these motors, but I don't know what that exactly feels like.

When you pop a 20R head on, does the distance change between the crank sprocket and the cam sprocket? Do they make adjustable timing gears for the camshaft?

I'll have to check the crankshaft endplay like you said, never heard of that. Ever since I spun my first rod bearing in my grand national 4.1 v6, I always check for spun bearings first.

Fuel injection is the way to go, but a tunable system?... its just so expensive. Oh and TIG welding isnt that hard - you could figure it out in a week with a couple hours a day. I used to MIG before I headed up to school and then me and my friend practiced and self-taught ourselves to TIG while on the BAJA SAE team. I would TIG at home too if I had a TIG welder - all I have is the trusty Miller MIG with shielded flux core wire... Messy

[Raffaelli]

Bud your overthinking it.(which is kinda good)

Early Twin chain 22r block(I think you have one)
20R head. They have both P/S and Non P/S heads.
20R intake. Get it with the head
22R Carb. Its better and you have.
LCEngineering carb plate. Mounts 22R carb on 20R manifold.
22R exhaust manifolds. U already have.
22R gasket set
20R intake manifold gasket.

I relapped the valves, no valve job needed. I run midgrade fuel at sea level with 10 degrees timing. Pings just a little. On the edge like I like it.
Pinging sounds like a ball bearing rattling in a can. Only its inside the motor when you load it up.

Whole sha-bang costed me like 150 bucks.
They make adjustable cam sprockets (LCE) for like 90 bucks. Ill get one when I get a cam, valvesprings and Oversized valves.

My truck puts out 185 PSI cranking compression. That is TIGHT. The swap does bump up the compression ratio slightly.

I wouldnt pay 2g's for the most tricked out heads on anything. I was soo close to putting a 5mge in(I had it ready). Im glad now I didnt.

[JoeDirtMcD3]

sounds more and more reasonable... guess ill be keepin an eye out for a P/S 20R head and intake manifold. might as well do something with it as its terribly slow...