was removing the head, and managed to get the rest of them out, but the one in the top right stripped about 1/3-1/2 the way out. also, ive treid almost everything to get it loose. grabbing the IM and trying to lever it very carefully doesnt work. nothing works, all i do is shake the car. cant figure out where there might be other bolts or anything else keeping it from even moving..
i was going to do a 20v swap, then i bought a backup vehicle so i decided to do a mini me with the 20v head, now i just want to get the damn thing rebuilt and running again. i have a new stage 1 clutch 4 it but it has a bad knock, and i cant get inside to pull everything out to see what im going to need because of this stupid head bolt that stripped.
wont go down, wont come out, just stuck spinning in place. i dont see how the hell i did it b/c i was carefull as hell, but it was quite resistive compared to the others. that whole side of the head seemed to be ultra-pressurized.
dont know if i should sawzall the thing, but im thinking i should if i can get the damn head to @ least pop loose. any help would b appreciated
Are those bolts 12 pt or 6 pt... Snap-on makes a good set of "turbo sockets" which are great at getting stripped out bolts out. Do you have straight on access to the head bolt or do you have to rock the cam to slip your socket on the bolt head. I think you can get the same type of "turbo socket" from craftsman too. If all else fails before you sawzall that bolt......once you do that there is no going back, you will be committed then.
yea i know thats the shitty thing, b/c it will involve drilling out the rest of it from the block. i dont know if its stripped in the block or head, but ill look into the "turbo" socket. they are 12 pt and i used a big breaker bar to get them off for leverage. all the rest popped loose but this one. ill be comiitted alright, to the nuthouse if i dont get this done before the frosts come
You make it sound as if the bolt is stripped in the middle of its threads. If so, then put a pry bar under the head of the bolt and pry on it as you unscrew it. That does work with smaller screws and bolts, but I don't know with a head bolt.....Chase the threads with the stock size tap afterwards, or, worst case you need to get a thread repair kit. Drill, tap, and install a heli-coil.
Good luck
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'06 DCLB Indigo,Scangauge II, Redline tuning hood struts, map light mod, trailer plug mod, LED bed lights Thule X-sporter racks. Aux. back up lights.
thnx, gonna have to do the surgery, prying didnt work last time io tried. its been a few days though, maybe ill try one last time. i just cant imagine how this happened, but too late for that now.
make sure you have all of your accessories unbolted as well.... seeing as many times the lower mount is on the block and the upper mount is on the head.....
along with that, there is an intake manifold support bar that goes from the back of the manifold to the middle/back of the block.....
if those aren't loose, the head isn't going to move if you have all headbolts out..... k.i.s.s.
4ag's take a 10mm 12pt socket, all bolts are located under the cams (must remove them... make sure you keep the cam bearings in order, and do NOT let the shims fall out... otherwise you and a feeler gauge are going to be having some fun). Intake and exhaust bolts are different lengths.
If it's just the bolt head that's stripped -- worst case scenario is to have something welded to the bolt then loosen it... otherwise saws (make sure you dont' damage the head) and vice grips are your dear old friend.
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
Last edited by toyotaspeed90; 10-22-2008 at 03:03 PM.
You make it sound as if the bolt is stripped in the middle of its threads. If so, then put a pry bar under the head of the bolt and pry on it as you unscrew it. That does work with smaller screws and bolts, but I don't know with a head bolt.....Chase the threads with the stock size tap afterwards, or, worst case you need to get a thread repair kit. Drill, tap, and install a heli-coil.
Good luck
I would be careful about doing this.... potentially causing more damage than you want and ending up spending a lot more at the machine shop than expected......
lets get some clarity.... is the bolt head stripped? or is the bolt spinning and not going anywhere (highly doubtful)?
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
actually dude, unfortunately it is spinning and not going anywhere.. i got it but so far, about a little less than halfway out, and then it just stripped. i noticed that when i loosened theat side of the head, a burst of pressure was released unlike what was on the belt side. i got all the head bolts out but that one, and all accesories that i can identify that are attached to the block and head have been removed, so i cant find any thing else holding it on there besides for the one head bolt. its damn sure not as easy as removing a Y8 head, being that you have to take the cams out of the 4age. i labeled everything and also in respective numerical order, and all parts that didnt require individual labeling and were small enough ended up in sandwich bags with tape labels.
there was an impact with a guardrail from the previous owner, on that side of the vehicle. it was bad enough that we had to bend the frame back out and do a bit of stretching etc and replace body panels for it to line up as true as possible, so im thinking that may have something to do with the engine; as the impact may have affected the block and then after time the whole thing just warped itself out of wack?
@ this point, im thinking about hauling it down to the shop, and just having a friend get the head off for me, so i can rebuild it and get it over with but parts are so goddamned expensive and rare for this engine. i got lucky and found a set of 10.3:1 oem cast aluminum pistons on ebay but new connecting rods are like 70 a piece! and the s/c rods are way overpriced for used ones. considering all this high price and limitation to availability of parts, im starting to think this car is out of my time/price range...
i hate to feel that way, just because of limited parts avaliability and high costs. am i not looking in the right places? im always checking ebay every week but not too much to be had in the way of oem parts like a new crankshaft and new set of rods... ive been told it would b wise 2 invest in a "crankshaft kit" so im hunting one of those 4 the rebuild.
smallport Hi-Comps have the same rods as S/C GZE's and are probubly cheaper, sounds like youre in a pickle for this head bolt, that sucks man, you could try drilling the head off the bolt and sliding the cylider head off and check it out from there
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