I know Techno Toy Tuning has a 4 piston setup for the front end. I havent seen too much about ht rear.
But I was going some scrap yarding, and found that older Volvo V70/S70 have twin piston rear breaks, that looks like they could EASILY fit on the rear Corolla discs. Didnt get a good look at the fronts (as I only thought of the idea after I had left the yard) the fronts are only single piston. BUT the rears are twin piston. Which I find interesting.
There are a few brake upgrades you can do to the stock system to make it work better than stock.
1. brake master cylinder stopper
2. overhaul calipers, and replace brake m/c if required. Consider new brake hoses.
3. run PERFORMANCE brake pads. None of that raybestos stuff. Go for real brake pads made by Porterfield (R4S) or Hawk (HT10, Black, Blue)
Porterfield R4S pads front and rear work fine for track days, they don't fade until around 8-10 laps depending on how brake intensive the track layout is.
yeah, FC rx-7 turbo II front calipers are common enough. T3 has a wilwood big brake kit. and with some fabrication you should be able to get any front or rear caliper to work, if you try hard enough.
but why upgrade your brakes? everyone i've talked to, online or in person, agrees that the best brake upgrade for the 86 is stainless steel lines (all 4 corners and the fifth line from the body to rear axle), a new MC, fresh rotors, and good pads.
but if you wanna go a little more crazy, i've heard about swapping s13 front spindles, brakes, and suspension onto the 86. The s13 front brakes are bigger than the 86 anyway, and open up the nissan parts bin considerably. infinity q45 brakes bolt with little effort and i believe those are 2 piston front brakes that work on stock rotors (I could be wrong. it's been 4 years since i seriously did any nissan research. selling your s13 will do that...)
I'm doing some research into this s13 front swap just b/c brakes and coilovers are cheaper for the nissan than our corolla. let me know if you want any info i've found.
some pics of my brakes i put on.
^^ front ^^
^^ rear ^^
^^ 5th brake line from the chassis to the rear axle. sorry about the angle ^^
A brake master cylinder stopper makes MORE difference than ss brake hoses.
Sticky old brake calipers won't stop as well as freshly overhauled calipers. And overhaul kits are available from Toyota still, for less than $100 for front AND rear kits.
Brake pad compound makes the most difference for initial bite and temperature.
ariel_86: You seem to know a bit about brakes. What about those of us who are doing road coarse? I hear from Gabe at T3 that with the stock rotor size the brakes will only last 8-10 laps of hard driving. So a larger brake rotor would help dissipate heat. That is the one bennifit to larger brakes. Oh... and your rotors are on backwards
ariel_86: You seem to know a bit about brakes. What about those of us who are doing road coarse? I hear from Gabe at T3 that with the stock rotor size the brakes will only last 8-10 laps of hard driving. So a larger brake rotor would help dissipate heat. That is the one bennifit to larger brakes. Oh... and your rotors are on backwards
I've done some research about brake kits and what not. one of the free things i can do for my car
As for road driving, I'm not sure. i personally have never taken my corolla to a track day. I've just done a few drift events, and there was usually a 10 or 15 min wait between runs, and runs only lasted a minute at best. I've never experienced brake fade. but i also look around at club4ag, and all the guys there seem to say you just need fresh parts and good pads.
How long are your track sessions? 8-10 labs sounds like a solid 30-minute session, which is what seems to be the average session length advertised for my local track. if you're doing autoX, then you'll never overheat the brakes b/c you run such a short track and have a few minutes between runs.
...and i don't think my rotors are on backwards. pretty sure the boxes with the rotors were labeled left and right, but it's been a long time since i put them on, and i haven't had any problems or noise or even gone through my first pair of pads yet. meh, whatever.
I do have to say that I like the ss brake lines and like that you went far enought to enclude the 5th line as well that is often overlooked. Going to ss lines was always one of my favorite and more noticeable upgrades.
On the issue of brake fade... I haven't been able to compare how the ae86 brakes do in stock form vs. modified. I can only refer to my experience with the crx a put together years ago. Everyone on the forums criticized me for wanting larger rotors/brakes. I ignored them and after the larger brakes were done I could brake later coming into corners, no longer had fade issues and had no problems with proportioning (the first comment usually made when larger brakes are brought up).
I'm not trying to completely disagree with everyone who says you just need to do some good maintenance on your braking system... just trying to show that for some there may be a good reason to want larger brakes.
i think the reason the larger brakes helped on the crx was because it was FWD, and the front wheels get overworked pretty quick during track driving, from what i hear. larger brakes have more area to soak up heat, and more area to dissipate heat, and i bet you went with a better front caliper with the larger brakes, maybe a larger single piston or a dual piston front caliper. that does give better braking force.
to me, mr hondarue, you don't sound like your really disagreeing with anyone, you just have experience that others don't. i suggest (and it's only my opinion and i won't whine if you disagree or disregard it) that you do freshen up your stock brake system with some SS lines, new fluid, pads, and rotors. try that out, and if you experience the brake fade you abhor, then either change pads or start putting together your "big brake" kit.
but have some fun with it and be careful. you know how important brakes are to stopping the car
as a road racer you probably already know, but different types of brake fluids have higher boiling points as well, and a soft pedal can be the result of bubbling fluid. try some higher rated brake fluid as well as some drilled and slotted stock rotors from napa or similar parts shop and some good pads, you should be good.
240sx stuff works, but it gives you a wider track stance in the front end, which allows for more camber as well. however a few altercations are required.
if you go with 240 lca's, steering knuckles, and struts or coilovers, you will need to do these things.
Drill your lca bolt hole. ae86's te72 ke70 ect have a tapered lca bolt hole, you will need to drill it out so it will allow for the 240bolt thru.
and your strut tower will need a whole drilled to mount the 240sx strut..
But im running camber plates so when i toss this into my car im going to attempt to keep my stock camber plates
240sx stuff works, but it gives you a wider track stance in the front end, which allows for more camber as well. however a few altercations are required.
if you go with 240 lca's, steering knuckles, and struts or coilovers, you will need to do these things.
Drill your lca bolt hole. ae86's te72 ke70 ect have a tapered lca bolt hole, you will need to drill it out so it will allow for the 240bolt thru.
and your strut tower will need a whole drilled to mount the 240sx strut..
But im running camber plates so when i toss this into my car im going to attempt to keep my stock camber plates
I've wanted to do the 240sx brake/suspension swap for a while. Getting a job might finally allow that.
As far as the camber plates, just bolt some AE86 plates onto your 240 struts. Tein and T3 both sell just the AE86 camber plates, and they should bolt up no problem to a 240 strut. I had a buddy that made 240 camber plates work on a AE86 strut in his SR5, but he only did that because he had extra 240 stuff lying around.
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1987 AE86 brake upgrade
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