You can swap out your carb for a Weber. Which would give you better more power/ torque/ and throttle response. With the Weber 32/36 your fuel economy would improve as well. However if your aiming for all out power, then I would go with the Weber 38 DGES which is what I have in my AE82, the power you get from a Weber is amazing. My friend has a stock AE82 sedan, and once he sat in my car, he was impressed at the power/torque improvement. Throttle response has increase significantly as well. My 4AC is basically on steroids, compared to my friend's 4AC.
You can also swap in motorcycle carbs, just like this setup [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wuJDWowZ5o&feature=rec-fresh+div-r-3-HM"] Which would also improve the power and response of the 4AC.
In addition upgrades to the ignition system would also give you some horsepower.
I'm currently running a Tercel Dizzy w/ Magnecor Wires, NGK Iridiums, and Blaster 2 Coil w/ the ignition timing advanced, the engine is now a lot more responsive.
A higher duration camshaft will add significant power as well. Just my 2cents.
Do not do anything to the 4AC. It is not worth the time or effort. I can find my dyno sheet if you do not believe me. I purchased my first SR5 ae86 a few years ago, it felt so slow I entered into a Dyno event to achieve the lowest hp award, a 81 1.3L civic almost had me with his air conditioning on, but I turned mine own and killed him with my 38WHP.
My 4AC was NOT stock.
K&N drop in filter with modified housing (to allow plenty of breathing)
NGK wires/plugs
2'' cat back with a magnaflow muffler
I've driven a 4AC ae86 shnieder cam, double valve springs, ported head, 32/36webber, custom header, and it STILL was not as fast as the weakest 4age I've driven.
With A/C off I managed a 49WHP Run, this 4AC has 113,000 miles on it (at the time) and was dealer maintained all of its life, never abused until I received it.
finally someone who actually did something to their 4ac to attest to the fact that its a waste of time
Don't get me wrong, I still love the 4AC, it was the first engine I took apart and put back together all by myself when I was 16 but its only useful as a economy car engine, which is what Toyota designed it to be. The beautiful thing about the 4AC is the reliability with the low power output and simplicity of the engine itself.
Eventually I will build a EFI 4ac that is turbo charged but that is years away, 4A-GE is the way to go at this time for me, and if I had the money I would likely look for a SR20DET.
And for you picky 4AC folk like I was about 7 years ago, trust me its still a challenge with a 4A-GE, they are not power monsters like you think, look at drift championships, drag strips and tell me how many 4A-GE's you see out there?
this topic reminded me of this guy w/ a turbo 4ac that made 130whp (dont know if thats true) everyone was saying with that money he spend, he should have just swap a 4ag 16V motor and made same hp. 4ac was never been a performance engine its more for fuel saving like the 4afe or the 1zzfe, its not a bad motor its just not a good base motor if your going to start tunning a corolla.
You can bolt a 4AFE block up to a 4AC head.
End result, the 7AC. Port work, some higher compression pistons, cam, maybe a better carb you might get something decent and torquey.
The weber carbs are a good mod. They are super cheap, and will put a little more life back into the motor. If you just want a little more pep, and a motor that is going to last 3-400k miles without a rebuild, that is the way to go for sure. Anything else is overkill.
Shooting carb cleaner down the throat once a month is a good idea too, ethanol is **** on carburetors ... and all pump gas has it now.
If you want a fast car you need to start looking at F20c, 1UZ, etc swaps.
The weber carbs are a good mod. They are super cheap, and will put a little more life back into the motor. If you just want a little more pep, and a motor that is going to last 3-400k miles without a rebuild, that is the way to go for sure. Anything else is overkill.
Shooting carb cleaner down the throat once a month is a good idea too, ethanol is **** on carburetors ... and all pump gas has it now.
If you want a fast car you need to start looking at F20c, 1UZ, etc swaps.
Just get a 22RE and be happy.
No cutting required, get some side drafts and a W58, call it a day.
Just get a 22RE and be happy.
No cutting required, get some side drafts and a W58, call it a day.
The 22R-E has to long of a stroke to make any power, and makes less power stock than a 4a-ge ... 105hp to 112hp respectively.
So essentially you are talking about swapping a motor that is going to take a fair amount of fabrication and electrical work (all be it no cutting) all to replace something that has roughly the same potential...
Both 1UZ and F20c fit without cutting if you use a dry sump btw.
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