aisan surging and sputtering

[82Wagon]

Have an '82 wagon with 3tc and auto, rebuilt the carb recently but to no avail... float level is set good already checked several times
off idle very light throttle works alright, cruise throttle surges and sputters and higher throttle picks back up but is not as powerful as it was when i got it in april.. and every once in a while for several seconds at idle it will sputter and just barely run around 400 rpm then pick back up to normal and stay there
not sure if this is carb or something else hooked to it, today i pulled out all the vacuum lines and EGR save for auxilary accelerator pump line, pcv and vacuum switch on passenger side fender, but it now backfires decelerating so if anyone knows where i can find the idle mix screw to readjust it i would appreciate that info as well
still has same poor acceleration and surging after vacuum lines were plugged off, and i know the original car owners they never tampered with anything, it was maintained as-is and driven politely
compression is good across all cylinders, 130 original k's, all new plugs/wires/cap/rotor, air filter, fuel filter and lines to auxilary accelerator pump and vacuum advance diaphragm recently blew and was plugged but changed nothing in the running of the car

sorry for lengthy post i wanted to cover all angles, i'm pretty tight for cash so i won't be gettin a weber unfortunately... never got to clean the carb on rebuild very well either, just compressed air and aerosol carb cleaner... was some dirt in the float and secondary venturi
when i look down the barrel the fuel seems to flow sporatically and accelerator pump does little unless activated very lightly

anyone still think this is the carb, maybe vacuum leak i haven't found?

[anthonynami2]

did you unplug the fuel cut solenoid if its bad pull it and cut off the end and secew it in

[82Wagon]

actually no, never even thought of it... the black or green-wired one?
the black one is so hard to twist in without wrecking the wire, it's been done before because the wire is halfway torn off and i nearly broke it on the rebuild

[anthonynami2]

Originally Posted by 82Wagon

actually no, never even thought of it... the black or green-wired one?
the black one is so hard to twist in without wrecking the wire, it's been done before because the wire is halfway torn off and i nearly broke it on the rebuild

my unc is toyota mech he told me about this when y truck would not idle u run a wire from the pos on the batt to the pos on the fuel cut and try running it and does your choke open up when its running it sopposed to do tht and if it isnt its bad or u can try hot wiring it

[anthonynami2]

The idle cut solenoid's job is to cut gas flow to the carb at idle with the ignition off. This is to prevent your engine from "dieseling" (sputtering to a stop) when you turn your key off. I have noticed my engine to do this if I rev it real high and then turn the key off. Since there is still a lot of gas flowing through the carb, the engine continues to sputter for a few seconds before it finally dies. The idle cut solenoid does its best to stop this.
The solenoid has two wires going to it. One is the black ground wire and the other is the white with black-striped power wire. When you turn your key on, this power wire goes hot which opens the solenoid which opens your idle jet. If your key is off or your solenoid is bad, then the solenoid is closed as is your idle jet. Your engine will NOT idle for more than one second if this is the case. Of course the solenoid can become stuck open, which may cause your engine to diesel.
To test the solenoid, simply ground the black wire and apply voltage to the white/black-striped wire. You should here a very faint click from the solenoid, similar to the click of a mechanical pencil. If you don't here a click then the solenoid must be replaced.
Replacing the solenoid is straight forward - the solenoid itself is basically a bolt if you look at it. What makes it a little tricky is the fact that its two wires are connected to the same green connector as your choke coil and outer vent control valve (I don't know what this does but your carb doesn't need it to run). Probably the easiest thing to do is to cut the two solenoid wires and splice in the new one. Otherwise, you must replace the choke coil at the same time and the choke coil can be a little tricky and is better left untouched.

[82Wagon]

awesome, would that cause a 5 second idle stumble at random every few minutes? i know nothing about electronics so i would have never considered that
could it affect the surge at all? the surge is at 15-45% throttle or so. its a bit weaker up near WOT as well

[anthonynami2]

i dont think it would let me talk to my uncle when he comes in hes a 35 year toyota mech he was fix the 3tc when they where new so he probably had this problem before try changing your fuel filter and checking your fuel lines makingshure shure none of them are crimped shut because tht can cause it to run like crap

[anthonynami2]

Originally Posted by 82Wagon

awesome, would that cause a 5 second idle stumble at random every few minutes? i know nothing about electronics so i would have never considered that
could it affect the surge at all? the surge is at 15-45% throttle or so. its a bit weaker up near WOT as well

btw that long post was a copy paste from a toyota truck website lol u might wanna read up the truck carb look diffent but their operation and compotns are the same http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/ read this

[82Wagon]

oh right on thanks bud!
i had that fuel line prob with an old jeep back when, line kinked above the filter on the pump side and gagged it out
this one's got a new filter and the lines are good, plus if it had a bad pump it wouldn't get power back when higher throttle was used... altho it does have less top end than before
it also seems to run unbalanced now, i should mention... and there's an exhaust leak i can't find, it used to be a manifold bolt but its fine now and this new leak is constant... the pipe is fine front to back, might be those stupid ones that go around the block... is there a way to plug the manifold without taking it off and remove those pipes?

[anthonynami2]

my unc say tht inside the fuel bowl there is two jet where they taken out and cleaned also theirs 2 brass screws ones got a spring and a ball and the outer has a ball or a passage way where the screws taken out and cleand the passage ways

[anthonynami2]

how did you rebild your carb

[82Wagon]

took it apart on a beer flat, sprayed carb cleaner all over it and blew compressed air thru all the passages.... took out the main jets, but after taking out the needle valve i couldn't get the seat out... the screwdriver stripped it
i couldn't get all the check balls out either, and i didn't have a soaker to leave it in... nor did i take off the base plate
there was some brown nasty stuff in the bottom of the bowl, are you saying there's more things to disassemble and clean in the bowl then just the needle and main jets?
i also noticed a passage near the pump plunger that had a 3 stage tapered needle, spring and ball in the diagram but mine only had a small square shaped brass bar in the hole, with some kind of cap over it... not sure why that would be either

[anthonynami2]

al right imma talk to my unc tonight he also said to pulg all the vacume lines back in thts why it back fires pull the line iff the egr and block the line did you take the intake off?

[anthonynami2]

join this website its a foum that speacialises in 3tc motors btw i own 2 82 wagons and a 83 wagon the 82s are parts and the 83 is the one i am fixing up when i have the money http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3268089 check it out can u post some pix of yours hers me and my dad and uncles cars http://www.cardomain.com/id/1971cadillacblu

[82Wagon]

the intake manifold? no it's still on
i took off the lines cause there were so many leaks and the valves they went to were mostly plugged or cracked, so i sealed em up and got the rat's nest out
the backfiring started after i pulled the EGR off but its only when i first start it then it goes away, and it runs better now so i'd rather keep the lines off and prevent a nightmare if i'm honest lol
it does run alot worse cold, and acts as if the accelerator pump is non-existent until it warms up then it behaves alot better, choke works fine but i'm going to adjust it a bit more... runs its very best when it's halfway warm then gets a little soft at full runnin temp
i don't see a forum on cardomain, just individual car blogs... where abouts is the 3tc discussion?