79 corolla project, pictures

[isopycnic]

Here is an album of pictures of my 79 Corolla
https://picasaweb.google.com/1006696...634/79Corolla#
Feel free to comment on the photos, or leave comments here. I have a mechanic friend walking me through some of these issues, and I will be taking pictures and videos as I go along.

It currently runs fine, but has oil all over.

79 Toyota Corolla Wagon Purchased: 12/31/11 $800 cash
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Corolla_%28E70%29
automatic
2tc engine 1.6L http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_T_engine
79toyt 4d

• All T engines utilize a timing chain and have a cast iron block with an alloy cylinder head with hardened valve seats and a hemispherical combustion chamber design (HEMI)..
• All T engines are carburated except those with electronic fuel injection, "E" designation.
• All T engines use a 2 valve OHV design except those with a DOHC performance head, "G" designation.

• The larger 1,588 cc 2T was produced from 1970 through 1984.
• Cylinder bore is 85 mm and stroke is 70 mm.
• A40 3 speed automatic transmission.
• 75 hp (56 kW) at 5,200 rpm and 87 ft.lbf (117 Nm) at 3,600 rpm.

An overhead valve (OHV) engine, also informally called pushrod engine or I-head engine, is a type ofpiston engine that places thecamshaft within thecylinder block (usually beside and slightly above thecrankshaft in astraight engine or directly above the crankshaft in the V of aV engine), and uses pushrods or rods to actuaterocker arms above thecylinder head to actuate thevalves. Lifters ortappets are located in the engine block between the camshaft and pushrods.[1] The more modernoverhead camshaft (OHC) design (still literally overhead valve) avoids the use of pushrods by putting the camshaft in the cylinder head.


Repairs To Do
a. initial maintenance

1. check oil
2. radiator coolant. put water in to get to store. measure volume, fill radiator not reservoir. until hits very top of grate. turn heat off and check gage.
3. don’t push the throttle!
4. don’t drive anywhere w/o coolant!
5. i'd start just with a couple rolls of paper towels and wipe it as clean as possible
6. reattach metal air hose, temporarily w/ electriacal tape

b. necessary repairs
do this when I have a week or 5 days to do engine repairs
must get new plugs and wires, because they won’t be able to clean off
valve cover gasket and cylinders
check thermostat and other parts as i go along, try cleaning up test in pot of boiling water, is near water pump, will have to pull most off during disassembly, a lot they won’t tell bc they want to sell new stuff

when i pull valve cover off, remove ALL old gasket, etc. off, w/ razor blade
clean w/ purple power or super clean, use hi temp silicone sealant use colored stuff easier to see

make sure i note which part goes where in which order, take pics.

c. maintenance
brakes $?
shocks $200

KNOWN ISSUES http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/129-older-generations-1969-1987/

• Engine
  • exhaust smell in oil- head ok?
  • exhaust smell from oil cap, and from the dip stick
  • needs valve cover gasket- 3 days free
  • 1 quart oil/ 3 mos.
  • fuel filter+hoses (clamp off first)
  • some water in oil
  • vaccuum hoses?

• Handling
  • pull to front left when braking (alignment, brakes?)
  • drives straight
  • steering is a little loose
  • bad shocks
  • does 65mph ok, hills a little weak, weak acceleration

• Maintenance
  • coolant is very low
  • oil change in 1-2 months
  • hoses
  • tires need air
  • air filter
  • fuel filter
  • clean carbeurator- stuck open when cold
  • pcv valve

• Interior
  • no radio
  • seat covers needed
  • window seals
  • moisture buildup

• Body
  • rust spots on roof rack mounts
  • roof rack needs repair (pcs in car)
  • rust through on floor @back door
  • Bondo on front right fender
  • one bumper cap missing

Here's the original Ad when I bought it.
79 Toyota Wagon



79 wagon, looks a lot like the older datsun wagons. The exterior is fairly straight for the most part. The interior is really clean, except for wear from use on the seats, and a previous owner cut out the stock stereo. Other than that the interior is almost show room. Everything works including the original rear window defroster! Engine still runs strong. It is 30 years old after all. Was used as my daily driver for a few years for most of the time I have owned it since it is pretty good on gas efficiency. Would be a great first car, or runner.

JUST MOVED INTO AN APARTMENT AND I HAVE NO WHERE TO STORE THE CAR. MUST SELL ASAP, MAKE ME AN OFFER!

Brand new tires. (Checked the receipt and they have around 3400 miles on them)
Averages 26-32 mpg
1.6l engine
Automatic trans
Breaks and rotors changed not all that long ago
Has had regular up keep done
I have owned it for around 5 years

****

[isopycnic]

https://picasaweb.google.com/1006696...11347524818930

[hardtopte72]

Wow very long post.

A few things I noticed off the bat.

1. What makes you think the carb sticks when cold? The car is supposed to rev to around 1500-2000 RPM when cold. This is an automatic choke and is necessary or you would not be able to drive off when cold.
2. That is not the EGR valve. The EGR valve is located on the left side of the water neck area. That valve is the thermostatic valve and works with issue #1.
3. As for your valve cover gasket do not use silicon. They make a Valve Cover gasket kit for it that comes with tube seals. It can be purchased at any autoparts store or rockauto.com. It is also recommended to change the PCV valve and grommet.
4. It is a good idea to replace the thermostat all together (it is only a few bucks for cheap insurance)
5. As for your left pull when braking this is most likely caused by a Caliper that is seizing on the left side. I have seen it plenty of times. My advice is to replace both calipers, and all the flexible brakes hoses on the car (Around 5-6 in total and flush the whole system with new fluid)
6. Shocks should be much cheaper than 200 bucks. Your major issue is going to be the springs (over 30 years old). You can buy those new on rockauto.com as well.
7. As for your oil burning issue it is most likely caused by faulty valve guides and seals. These can get very gunked up over the years and need replacing. It is actually a very easy job except 99% of the time the head will have to be removed as the valve guides will break into pieces. I recommend to also replace the timing chain and get a valve job while you are at it.
8. For the steering being loose this can be caused by a number of issues. Most likely it is loose front end parts (idler arm, pitman arm, tierod ends etc.) These parts are all easy to replace. If none of them are bad and it is still loose you can adjust the tightness on the steering box by loosening the locknut up on top of the steering box and turning the screw in to help with the wearing of the gears in the steering box.


All in all it just needs a little maintenace. It should honestly take less than 1000 dollars to bring this car back to the modern day.

Some things I do to all old Corollas I ever bought. I will add numbers 1-3 in order of importance. 1 being most important 3 being least important.

Oil Change-1
Water Pump-1
Thermostat-1
Valve Cover Gasket-2
Spark Plugs-1
Spark Plug Wires-1
Distributor Cap and Rotor-2
Fuel filter-1
All Brake Lines-1
Fuel pump-3
Rear Main Oil Seal-2
New Clutch-3
Valve Adjustment-3
Struts-2
Front End Replacement if it is worn.-1 (you can use 83 Corolla Control Arms as they don't list the control arm for 79)

I then almost always add a Weber 32/36 carb, add an exhaust header, remove the air pump, block off the EGR, and remove the charcoal canister. This gives me the extra power I need to keep up with cars today.

Hope this helps.