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Tips for removing a transmission from a junker

5K views 47 replies 8 participants last post by  Pete Suhman 
#1 ·
So with PicknPulls Memorial day sale, I am planning on going to get a new(used) transmission for my car.
I wanted to ask a couple questions and get some advice.

So about a month ago I did some scouting and found a 93 corolla with 176k miles that was relatively untouched. I plan on getting the tranny from this one.
I didn't actually look at the fluid or took anything apart from that car as when I looked at it I had no tools.
So before I start to take that one I was gonna check some things..
Fluid, metal shavings, etc
Axle play at the transmission(the problem my tranny has)
Any signs of removal or replacement.

Anything else I should add to that list?

So when I go to remove it I have 2 options.

1. Remove the engine and tranny as one unit. I like this option because I don't have to crawl around removing the subframe.

2. Remove the subframe and drop the tranny out the bottom.


I am leaning towards option 1, but I need more advice. Is there anything preventing me from removing the engine and tranny as one?

I think the only crawling around underneath with option 1 would be removing the axles, unbolting the rear mount, and possibly starter wires? Is this all?
 
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#2 ·
Was this car smacked in the rear at all to indicate it wasn't sent to the junk yard for an engine or transmission issue? I can't offer advice on removal, but if your PicknPulls are anything like the ones here, make sure that car is stable before you go under it.
 
#4 ·
So when I go to remove it I have 2 options.

1. Remove the engine and tranny as one unit. I like this option because I don't have to crawl around removing the subframe.

2. Remove the subframe and drop the tranny out the bottom.


I am leaning towards option 1, but I need more advice. Is there anything preventing me from removing the engine and tranny as one?

I think the only crawling around underneath with option 1 would be removing the axles, unbolting the rear mount, and possibly starter wires? Is this all?
I pulled my original engine and installed my replacement with the transmission attached both times so there's nothing stopping you in that aspect other than your normal stuff like the plumbing and electrical. As for the subframe/crossmember, you still have to unbolt a great deal of it to get the engine out anyway so option 2 may end up being a little less work intensive because of that.
 
#6 ·
You need to unbolt the suspension arms as well for removing the drive axles so what I mean by a "great deal" of the subframe (if I recall correctly) is once you do that and unbolt everything required for the lower motor mounts, there's not much left to drop the entire subframe out! And I knew what you meant about pulling the engine and tranny from the top. That's what I did.
 
#10 ·
Oh, I was going to mention if you don't have a fancy transmission jack it might be less of a hassle to go with route #1 . Because pulling the engines in these cars are so straightforward, I think I would actually prefer to pull the engine and tranny in one piece myself. Plus - you might make someone's day looking for an engine ;)
 
#12 ·
You have a manual transmission correct? Assuming that the rest of it is fine, have you considered popping that thing open and replacing the differential portion with the sockets that the drive axles slide into? I understand that time is probably money but if you get yourself some good instructions/diagrams, I don't think it would be that bad. I'm pretty sure you don't even have to touch a majority of the transmission to accomplish this.
 
#14 ·
I thought about it, but to take the diff apart requires taking the tranny out. Easier to replace the whole thing.

I was there earlier today to take the sunroof assembly for my 92 ES300. There's a few Corollas that has many parts left.
Which junkyards did you go to? I went to the Springfield ones.

Anyway pulled the tranny today.
Everything went well.
Donor




This is NOT how you fix a hole in the oil pan.




Not too bad..


Took 2 hours flat.


Anyway, fluid was dark but no metal shavings. No axle play. Shifter felt fine.
Hopefully it's a good tranny.
 
#19 ·
Seems like what you just stated might be a possibility.

Me and my brother took the 5th gear cover off to take a look. Turns out two of the 5th gear keepers are missing. I found one just sitting there, and the other one is MIA.

The junkyard said I can exchange it, but there's only 1 Corolla out there that I haven't looked at, so finding another suitable donor is unlikely. Or I could get store credit but I need a transmission.

Very good possibility of taking the trannys and making one good one out of them.


 
#28 ·
$300 isn't so bad though. I was also considering dropping $1k on a Euro 6 speed LSD transmission with a special 3.9 final drive, which is a sizable chunk of change. Worth it for such a well specced transmission, and it includes shipping which is awesome.
Yea, I thought about finding a 6 speed or an LSD, but way over my price range.


Gerson is the master transmission expert around here. :D
 
#29 ·
Yeah you just need the proper bell housing is all. A series engines and ZZ series engines have different bolt patterns for the transmissions, don't they? I mean the transmissions between the 7th gen and 8th gen Corolla are nearly identical (C50 vs C52) but the bell housings are different to match the engine.

The nice thing about the 3.9 FD Euro 6 speed is that it's built for the MR2 Spyder, which means no having to modify the shifting mechanism and replace things like the reverse lockout for a mid engine layout. Bolts straight up, whereas a Celica 6 speed won't.

This is relevant enough to this thread, because you can bolt up any C series transmission you want to the 7th gen Rolla with some modification.
 
#33 ·
Does that loose key fit in one of the slots? And the answer for being three slots could be that it's a universal part for C series transmissions such as the C50, C52, and C56 for simplicity and to keep costs down. The problem is the parts diagrams I'm finding aren't particular to one transmission and generally cover all the models I mentioned. So like I said, I think the only way to know for sure is to pop the cover on your other transmission and compare the two (assuming that they're the same).
 
#34 · (Edited)
Yea they are exactly the same, I think the only difference is that my car's a 94 and the donor is a 95. Otherwise both C50s.

I could fit that key in fine if I could push in the clip that holds it. I wish I could explain it better, there is a big C clip that's underneath that gear and holds onto it. You have to push it back to get the key to go into its spot.
 
#35 ·
That C clip you're referring to under the gear is called a key spring and there's supposed to be an additional one on the front of the gear as well (no doubt to secure the other end of the key(s)), and that's obviously missing in the pics. Did you happen to find it loose when you removed the cover? If you never removed it and it's gone, sounds like you do have a problem....
 
#36 · (Edited)
That key spring you were talking about may actually be the top one so you might be alright. I know these are slightly different from what you have but check out these C52's here and here. In the video, it has one key (with the key spring still attached), while the transmission in the other link has three keys. So yeah, I don't know man. :wtf:

Edit: I just noticed that the dude in the video has three keys inserted when he's done with the rebuild. So I think you were right about those missing keys.
 
#44 ·
I'll try that but I doubt I'll get anything because the transmission has been moved around alot and who knows where it is at the moment.


After recovering the missing key if possible to prevent additional damage (if any), would it hurt to simply put some new keys in it and give it a try? Is there a good chance it'll work? I understand that it isn't worth taking bets with transmissions because of the tremendous amount of work to get it in and out of the car, but that would be a cool deal!
If I put them back in I have to figure out how they fell out in the first place, otherwise I'll probably be in the same boat.


I'm not a transmission guy, but I'd be worried about the keepers getting chewed up but the other gears. From the rebuild pictures, that appears to be where they would go.
Yes, it's probably down in the gearbox somewhere.


So as of right now I am going to go back to the junkyard and look to see if I can find a replacement suitable donor. Does anyone know if the Celica with the 7AFE has the same C50 or C52 transmission? Or any other car with the C50?

If I can't find a suitable donor I have a few options.

1. Return the transmission, I only get store credit though and I don't know what I would do with $120 of store credit.

2. I could take the donor apart and try and fix it. I don't know a lot about transmissions and may not be able to fix it.

3. I could take both of my transmissions and make one good one. This is a good alternative, but it means my car would be out of commission for at least a week. It is my daily driver after all.

Let me know what you guys think and your opinions.
Thanks
 
#42 ·
After recovering the missing key if possible to prevent additional damage (if any), would it hurt to simply put some new keys in it and give it a try? Is there a good chance it'll work? I understand that it isn't worth taking bets with transmissions because of the tremendous amount of work to get it in and out of the car, but that would be a cool deal!
 
#46 ·
I'd return it for the credit, if they can source you a known good transmission sometime soon.
If not, I might take a shot at rebuilding it, or even carrying it in to a transmission shop, and having them rebuild it.
 
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