I've been starting to hear an occasional tea kettle type whistling sound when I drive around. I've ruled out the ac blower motor, there is no evidence the radiator cap is releasing anything, over flow tank is normal, I can't find any obvious leaks/seeps aside from a slight seep near the timing chain cover. Alternator bracket is always damp. Any idea what I should look closer at?
Can you reproduce it when idling? Might need to pop the hood open. Could be a vacuum leak or a shot bearing perhaps? Check radiator fan, condenser fan, water pump, PS pump, alternator.
I can't reproduce it. . It's sporadic and occurs without the ac on. It doesn't really sound like a bearing, more like steam escaping a vent. I hear it more when accelerating, but sometimes when slowing down too.
And it's not wind noise? Does it happen if you switch the air to recirculate as well (regardless of fan running)? I guess it could be a bad radiator cap even it it appears normal?
As far as I can tell it's not wind noise. It is very noticeable with the windows down. The ac off, on low, med or high has no effect. I will probably order a new radiator cap just incase though.
Maybe it's from the air intake tract, although the fact that you said it occurs during deceleration kind of disproves that theory. Nonetheless, didn't you remove the snorkel or Heimholtz resonator?
My other car has a cheap aftermarket throttlebody, and it whistles under acceleration. I guess because of the IAC passages?
I did remove the snorkel but put everything back to stock configuration after I saw no improvement in mpg. I'd previously (3?) years ago cleaned the intake plenum, egr valve and throttle body. The paint was coming off the metal intake plenum gasket, but the engine ran fine when I reassembled everything. I'll give all the vaccuum lines a closer inspection. . . Might even try a smoke test with a cheap cigar. I never messed with the IAC becauae idle was fine, but I'm wondering if it is related since you said yours makes a whistling noise. It's not something I can reproduce because it comes and goes randomly, with varying noise intensity.
Wouldn't the belt screech all the time though? It seems to only occur if I drive 30+ minutes first. I'll try to get a sound recording of it. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the belt, or a bearing after my near flooding experience. To me it didn't sound like belt screech, but if I can record it I'll share. The timing belt cover is cracked, so I'm think the occasional drip of oil is getting out and onto the alternator bracket. The belt seems dry from looking at it.
The timing belt cover is cracked, so I'm think the occasional drip of oil is getting out and onto the alternator bracket. The belt seems dry from looking at it.
Yeah, and sadly it sounds like I am. . . Cam shaft seal was replaced a few years ago.
Well, my wife managed to record the mystery noise tonight as we got back from Houston. It only occurs in gear when moving at low speeds. Ac or cooling fan being on/off has no effect. Being in idle and manipulating the throttle cable has no effect either. So far it goes away, or gets lost in the wind noise above 35mph, or at a stop. You can hear it more clearly about 20 seconds in. It doesn't last very long though.
So the moment I uploaded and posted, I saw this video in the suggested selection. . . Sounds like the same thing? I wonder if that's my alternator going out.
Sounds like it could be a squeak rather than a whistle - especially after you stopped and started moving again. You can cross that fake turbo-whistle off of your Christmas list now.
Did you have a baseball game on the radio? It could've been someone in the audience whistling...
That looked like some nice stuff around that dumpster at 1:06.
Did a smoke test by blowing smoke from a black and mild into the line the from the intake plenum to the pcv valve. Smoke came out of two spots, the intake entrance, and the elbow that connects the breather box to the throttle body. It appears the side near the throttle body has a hairline crack near the clamp. Could this be my issue? I'm also wondering if a brake caliper slider pin is starting to seize, as I occasionally notice what feels like a slight pulsation when braking. The car doesn't pull to either side if I let go of the steering wheel and brake, but there is a groove worn into the driver side rotor. It doesn't feel like it's getting any deeper.
Did a smoke test by blowing smoke from a black and mild into the line the from the intake plenum to the pcv valve. Smoke came out of two spots, the intake entrance, and the elbow that connects the breather box to the throttle body. It appears the side near the throttle body has a hairline crack near the clamp. Could this be my issue?
It's possible... You could try taping it up until you can procure a replacement. Good thing it's not Mass Air, or it would really be running poorly - if the leak were between the MAF and the throttle body.
I'm also wondering if a brake caliper slider pin is starting to seize, as I occasionally notice what feels like a slight pulsation when braking. The car doesn't pull to either side if I let go of the steering wheel and brake, but there is a groove worn into the driver side rotor. It doesn't feel like it's getting any deeper.
Your brake rotors are probably glazed. This usually occurs during heavy braking and the rotor doesn't cool sufficiently, changing the surface characteristics of the brake rotor. Either have them turned or buy new rotors and pads and bed them correctly
I do pretty much only city driving, so I can see that. I had them resurfaced last year when new pads went on. New brake fluid too. Would they appear glazed, or would they look normal? Mine look pretty shiny, or rusty if It rains an the car sits for a day.
Usually it doesn't have the same mirror shine you are used to seeing, more like a darker tint. The pads themselves may be the culprit; for me it's a bit more difficult to tell if the pads are glazed and because they are so cheap I usually just buy new ones. If you really wanna stretch your dollars, you could try sanding the pads with some sandpaper (use a block) and hopefully they will rebed to the old rotor correctly and you can see if that helps lessen or remedy the whistling. If it doesn't go away, you may want to just get the rotors turned and buy new pads
Best to lay a sheet of 220-grit sand paper on a flat surface like a glass coffee table. Then slide the brake pad back & forth on the sandpaper. Angle the pad 10-20 degrees and add a little bevel on the leading edge to prevent squealing.
For the rotors, clean off both sides with acetone while looking for deposits. Then sand by hand in a radial direction, in-and-out perpendicular to rotation (outer edge towards centre and out).
To bed in pads, do easy braking for about 100-miles. Then do a series of about 5 repeats with increasing effort braking from about 50mph. The first one at about 50% effort with the last one at 100% braking force. The pads & rotors should be optimally matched at this point.
Also check your wheel bearings and caliper pins while you're there. Good luck!
Danno- Not sure what pads, this was done at the Toyota dealership when we moved to Corpus Christi. I'm honestly not sure when I'll actually get around to pulling everything apart as I still avoid doing almost any maintenance in the apartment complex. I like to do maintenance when I've made a trip back to Houston (not to mention my tools are there). Can I check wheel bearings by jacking up one wheel at a time, or is it best when the car is in the air? I've noticed an mpg drop, despite a recent tune up and switch to synthetic oil, so I wouldn't be surprised if a wheel bearing is bad. Only one has been replaced since I bought the car (front, but I forgot which side).
Edit: I forgot to add, my wife is completely fine with me leaving car parts in the sink, so I don't think she'd care if I sanded anything down on the kitchen table. lol
Can I check wheel bearings by jacking up one wheel at a time, or is it best when the car is in the air? I've noticed an mpg drop, despite a recent tune up and switch to synthetic oil, so I wouldn't be surprised if a wheel bearing is bad. Only one has been replaced since I bought the car (front, but I forgot which side).
- jack up corner
- remove brake-pads & caliper to R&R pin & seals
- put wheel back on and grab top & bottom
- vertically rock wheel, push in top while pulling out bottom, then reverse. Note any kind of play
The trick is to not have the pads pushing on the rotor, this masks any looseness in the bearings. Kinda sucks that the wheel-bearings are about the size used on bicycles. Would be nice to have tapered roller-bearings in an adjustable design. We can remove the play and re-grease as the bearing wears and never have to replace it. While these cars are inexpensive and parts are cheap, I can't believe the incredible amount of maintenance needed!
Hey, that's a great idea! Tea kettle noise is hot gas escaping through a small hole. Perhaps Chris has an exhaust leak through a tiny hole somewhere? Perhaps a gasket has a crack?
Maybe clamp a microphone near each exhaust flange and record the sounds.