Toyota Nation Forum banner

Intermittent starting problems 95 Corolla ... Stumped, tired and confused.

2K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  colej2016 
#1 ·
Hi, I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla 1.8L that I got last year for next to nothing. However I've put more money into this thing to keep it running that what I paid for. Here's my problem; The car will crank and run, I'll drive it around for a period of time and then I'll turn off the car. If I try to start the car after shutting it off, the car will crank but won't run. If I wait for a period of time (30 minutes to an hour) the car will crank and run. Sometimes the car will crank and run but die immediately.

Here's what I replaced in the past:
Fuel pump (replaced by previous owner)
Fuel filter
Battery
Alternator
Denso O2 sensor x2 (before and after catylitic converter)
Plunger/contacts inside Starter
Ignition switch
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Distributor cap
The rotating piece inside the distributor.
The coil (non-denso) for the distributor (11/29/2015)

Checks done for starting issue:
Measured 10-12 volts at electrical connector going to fuel pump underneath rear seat when starting.

Disconnected fuel line at fuel rail when starting to see if fuel was squirting out. Fuel did pour out.

Connected an in line spark plug checker that illuminates a bulb (flashing). Bulb illuminated/flashed when trying to start the car.

I read the thread about the distributor issues but after replacing the coil today, I'm still having the same issue....so I'm a little stumped. The issue is related to heat because it seems like when the car warms up it won't start. The car always starts when it's cold. Car has radiator fluid in it and I've replaced the thermostat in the past. Put some fuel injector cleaner in it recently.

I saw where someone said it could be related to the crank portion sensor but not sure if that's it.

Any ideas?
- Dan
 
See less See more
#2 ·
#4 ·
You might be able to do a quick confirmation of the above diagnosis, by pouring water over the distributor the next time it fails to hot-start. If it fires right up after the water, then you have a heat-soak problem inside the distributor.

I think it was our own V8440, IIRC, who cured his car of this, by relocating the ignition module IIRC to outside and away from the hot distributor.
 
#5 ·
I'll try out an OEM coil and the water trick. This is the coil I swapped into it yesterday.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IK...rolla+coil&dpPl=1&dpID=41GXJkmVNYL&ref=plSrch

Good ol Amazon ratings.

Placing the ignitor circuit outside of the distributor? I guess I would just extend the leads off the circuit and run them into the distributor. The leads were 20 or 22 awg.

Thanks for the ideas and comments. I'll update when I work on it again.
 
#6 ·
I think the '95.5+ OBD-II cars already have external igniters. So perhaps Toyota learned something from miniaturizing parts too much and stuffing them into tight spaces without ventilation for cooling. The early '95 OBD-I adjustable-distributor car still had igniter inside.

For the coil, OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer and Denso. Not the "OEM" brand of parts, which should be avoided.

The only brands that doesn't have a bad-rep for these coils are:
- Denso
- Bosch
- AC-Delco
- Delphi
- Beck/Arnley (hit & miss, some of their stuff will work, others not so much)
 
#7 ·
By replacing the coil, you replaced 1 of the 2 components inside the distributor known for doing exactly what yours is doing. Like someone else said, pour water on the metal part of the distributor when it's failing to start. If it starts, you've confirmed the diagnosis. My method of relocating the ignitor probably doesn't require one of the "good" brands listed above, because the ignitor is so much cooler that it basically can't possibly get very hot. I relocated it to inside the lid of the air filter box, right in front of where the air rushes into the hose to the throttle body. The harder you drive the car, the more air blows over the module.
 
#8 ·
Dont even bother with pouring water or any of the other things, just get another OEM distributor. Used is fine. You also may have a failing crank sensor. I thought my distributor crapped out since the car started right up when I changed it after a no-start, but it died again a week later and the crank sensor was dead.

-SP
 
#9 ·
So don't bother trying the extremely easy water pouring test, just go ahead and replace the distributor, but oh by the way, it might be the crank sensor instead? I'm not trying to be a dick here, and maybe I'm misunderstanding what you said, but you seemed to (rightfully so) negate what you said about not pouring water by pointing out that the crank sensor might be the source of all the trouble. How about this: Just try the water on the distributor test, and go from there?
 
#12 ·
So don't bother trying the extremely easy water pouring test, just go ahead and replace the distributor
True the water pouring may be easy, but its also ineffective. Heat transfer is very low and would take quite a while to make a difference. If any of you have actually done this and had it work I will change my mind.

Crank sensor is easy to check with a multimeter. Mine was open. These do have a higher than typical ohms, so set your meter to K ohms.

The distributor is a common and well documented problem on these cars. Hours to months have been wasted trying to return corollas to reliable running condition by changing internal parts or aftermarket parts with a very low success rate. While you may spend a little more for another distributor, your stress level will be greatly reduced. Isnt that worth paying a little more?

-SP

heehee, try unfiltered water next time! :)
 
#11 ·
Water test did not work. I grabbed a 3 Liter jug and filled it with water that's been sitting in a fridge via brita pitcher. Maybe I should try unfiltered water instead (jk).

What really sucks is that at this moment I'm stuck in the parking lot at work but I got a plane to catch in 3 hours. Car worked like normal driving to work.

DannoXYZ did you really have to spell out what OEM means? Come on man lol but thanks for the list of alternative brands.

Btw I "gifted" this car away to a family relative however every time they have a problem they bring it back. So at the moment I'm driving the Corolla around trying to figure out this problem.

I'll do the junkyard corolla distributor swap when I get back. Maybe the crank sensor also at the same time. Thanks for all the comments everyone.
 
#13 ·
Maybe I should try unfiltered water instead (jk).
Correct. The filter stripped away all of the good thermally conductive particles in the water and there you go...:lol: JK...

I learned the water trick from reading here, and thought I remembered it working for someone. Definitely worth a shot, although I would've used water which was less potable...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top