Well the one I tried on 6gc didn't work, and Apex'i doesn't think the AE101/102s are cool enough to have a guide, I will give you my own. This guide works on California spec corollas as well. I've done it on 4 different Corollas from different years and Cali spec also. So here you go. This guide was set-up as if you were looking at your ECU.
Please note the SAFCII does not have an O2 sensor connection, I added that to help out all the people who put in A/F gauges.
Also note, if you have an automatic, The IG power wire, will still be on the bottom right corner.
whats everyone else getting for knock values? mine are really low, i was surprised! once i had it set i get maybe 1-2 at idle in gear, goes up a tiny bit then the fans kick on and it drops, then under load at part throttle its very low, usually under 10. at WOT in 2nd pulling its still well under 100.
as per the instructions in the manual, held at 1550 rpm in nuetral and set it, then held at about 3700rpm in nuetral and set it. how did you set your knock?
keep in mind that i can READ the stamped marks on the tops of my pistons when i look down the plug holes, its CLEAN in the head of my engine and piston tops are spotless. i've done some magin in a bottle a couple times to get it really clean. couple treatments of ATF and seafoam and my lead foot probably are what has it soo clean inside the combustion chamber.
i'll be hitting the highway tomorrow, maybe i'll make some high throttle pulls and keep an eye on knock. i've been running in the cool night ari mostly also, either morning or night driving. i know ambient air temp can really influence knock, but i think that i just have a really knock frree tune with my timing where its at. the engine runs real smooth also, so i dont think i'm getting any mechanical sounds interfering. maybe i should tap near the sensor to make sure it is indeed working correctly? since i am seeing knock readings and dont have a CEL, i assume it is.
its possible my engine wasnt ALL the way warmed up, it had been off and on several times and had reached operating temp within about an hour of when i set the knock. the guage was at the normal spot, but i'll try setting knock again after some highway time when i KNOW its warmed up good and see if i get any different readings.
Put it in neutral and give the block a couple light taps with a metal hammer, that should trigger the knock sensor. (It should also severely pull timing for a bit, if you've got any way of monitoring that.)
Hmm seafoam, I've always wanted to do that. Any tips?
its not hard to do, dont put it in your oil unless you're about to change it, like going to change it that day. just find a vac line that looks like it'll spread out to all the cylinders evenly and then suck some in. i grabbed a can of deep creep (seafoam in spray can) and sprayed in and around the TB and IAC. that smoothed my idle a little more and gave me a more stable warmup idle speed on colder days. you can suck in 1/2 can through the vac line, then let it sit. the longer it sits the better. start the car, let the engine warm, then drive the piss out of it. gotta get everything good and hot so the stuff burns out.
Hmm seafoam, I've always wanted to do that. Any tips?
The PCV line between head and manifold works perfectly for this. Keep the engine RPMs as low as possible--you don't want to burn it off, you just don't want to hydrolock it. Once it's all in, let the engine stumble and die (or kill it from inside the car if you've got a helper) and let it sit for as long as you can get away with. If you pull the key and the engine starts dieseling, IMMEDIATELY point the end of the PCV hose outside the engine compartment and away from anyone/anything that might take offense to or damage from a fine scalding spray of kerosene steam and carbon bits. When you start back up, though, don't do it in public areas where you might get hassled by cops or local security. This is less than fun.
Another thing that'll have much the same effect is sucking steam-distilled (has to be VERY pure) water through the PCV valve--again, slowly. After a good seafoaming or 'steam cleaning' , it's probably a good idea to change the plugs--there may be a lot of blown-off carbon deposited on them. Additionally, if you get a CEL during the process, it's probably something pretty understandable. I ran a half-gallon of water through the mani and the only CEL code was that one cylinder had misfired once.
Sup all,
I'm definitely a noob because I have no idea what you guys are talking about but it sounds like I should do it for my 96 rolla.
Sounds as if this "foam" cleans out your intake and cleans all the nasties. Where can I find it?
Could someone educate me as if I were a 16 yr old learning, please.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piloter
Once it's all in, let the engine stumble and die (or kill it from inside the car if you've got a helper) and let it sit for as long as you can get away with. If you pull the key and the engine starts dieseling,
What do you mean by "starts dieseling?"
Last edited by costadragon220; 09-09-2007 at 12:09 AM.
Sup all,
I'm definitely a noob because I have no idea what you guys are talking about but it sounds like I should do it for my 96 rolla.
Sounds as if this "foam" cleans out your intake and cleans all the nasties. Where can I find it?
Could someone educate me as if I were a 16 yr old learning, please.....
What do you mean by "starts dieseling?"
Generic auto parts stores should have it in the cleaning isle. Depending on where you live, it may be hard to find, but check http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm for possibly helpful information.
By 'starts dieseling', I mean the engine continues to run after you've removed the key from the ignition. I've only had it happen once in 15 or so treatments among various vehicles, but it can be a little scary.
ok, highway cruising and most cruising im seeing around 19-10 knock and none at idle out of gear, 1-5 at idle in gear. are these acceptable numbers? under WOT my knock count is at its highest just over 100.
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93-97 Corolla/Prism 7AFE SAFCII Wiring Guide
, it's probably a good idea to change the plugs--there may be a lot of blown-off carbon deposited on them. Additionally, if you get a CEL during the process, it's probably something pretty understandable. I ran a half-gallon of water through the mani and the only CEL code was that one cylinder had misfired once.
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