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Hose behind the water pump

53K views 82 replies 24 participants last post by  stevierayray 
#1 ·
1996 Corolla,1.8,113K miles
Has anyone replaced this hose before? Its about 1-1/2" in diameter and looks like a PIA to replace! :confused:
 
#2 ·
Never have seen one fail yet. Something punctured it or it was defective. Its not that hard but its not easy. PS pump needs to be swung back, upper bracker moved and then the water neck from the pump to the head needs to come off. Then the hose can be removed. Probably removed the dipstick tube while at it and plug the hole at the oil pump while working above it.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I had that hose replaced by a mechanic friend, along with the water pump, timing belt, and bunch of other things (serp belts, thermostat, exhaust man, radiator hoses, coolant flush, crank and camshaft seals).
I'm glad he was able to do it because there's was no way I could've done all that and he only charged me $200 for the labor.
All the parts I bought myself.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I had the hose clamp fail on me yesterday. I doubled up some small hose clamps that I had in the trunk but it's still leaking a little bit. Would doubling up the clamps cause a leak? Is it possible to change that hose without pulling the elbow off? It's possible that I didn't get the clamp tight enough since I didn't have the right tools, and it was raining out. How often do these hoses go? It seemed pretty solid still when I changed the water pump last fall.
 
#10 ·
I'm having all kinds of fun trying to hunt down one of those hoses too. From what I measured, it's 1-3/8" in diameter and about 3" long. Already called Kragen and AutoZone, and they have none, nor do they list any. I just found out NAPA has them for about $10, and they are cut to size. They are actually 2-3/4" in length.

I'll be getting those tomorrow while I'm changing out my timing belt, water pump etc. Going to try and clean out all the grease and grime that built up behind the belt. Looks pretty bad. Might have to tackle it with degreaser and some brushes, then find something to seal up the timing belt covers when it's all back on. Maybe some silicone. What do you think?
 
#11 ·
Just replaced the one on our 7A-FE a couple weeks ago. It is indeed 1 3/8" ID and 2.75" long. Don't expect to find one in the exact length.

I went to O'Reiley's and had to buy a foot of Gates 1 3/8" coolant hose at a cost of nearly $14, just to use a 3" piece of it.

And yes the old hose looked pretty bad on our car with 219K on it. It looked like it was bulging pretty bad and ready to burst. New Gates hose was pretty thick, and I actually had a bit of trouble getting the old hose clamps back on in place, but I finally got it on. This was on a new water pump and the original water neck, both off the car. There was also quite a bit of old coolant and rubber residue on the old water neck which I removed with my Dremel with wire wheel bit.
 
#13 ·
Can I also just say that this water pump design is ridiculously dumb. Trying to maneuver the whole water pump/hose/neck assembly into and out of the engine bay is next to impossible.

They should have kept it simple like Honda!
 
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#69 · (Edited)
1993-1997 Toyota Corolla Water Pump Inlet Hose/Gasket

The hose that you need (water pump inlet hose) can be purchased at the Toyota Dealer and also the gasket for the flange end. The part number on the hose is 16262-16030 and the part number for the gasket is 16347-15010. The hose is 2 3/4 inches long and 1 1/4 inches inside diameter. You can find a picture of the hose on ebay by doing a search with the above part number,BUT they want almost $20.00 for that little hose,or see my picture/part number in this post. I went to the Toyota Dealer and bought both the hose and gasket for $8.69 out the door,although they did order them and came in the next morning. 1/16/2019
 

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#20 ·
well that's another thing about the Honda engines - they're interference design so if the TB breaks usually valves get bent or worse, whereas Toyota engines are non-interference design (most of them anyway I think).

But I still think it's easier to work on my Integra than the Corolla is. :D
 
#22 ·
There is a groove on the engine block where the pump goes. The old O-ring is pretty much cemented into that groove so it is difficult to see. I had to dig it up with a screwdriver, be careful not to damage the metal surface though. When I finally got it out, it was hard as rock and just broke into pieces.
 
#25 ·
For some reason the water pump kit I installed on our 7A-FE came with 2 identical o-rings. Most of the pictures of kits I see for this engine online also show the 2 o-rings. I'm not sure why, unless it's just provided as an extra or something. I didn't find any place for another o-ring to go, nor was there any mention of it in the Haynes manual.
 
#28 ·
For some reason the water pump kit I installed on our 7A-FE came with 2 identical o-rings. Most of the pictures of kits I see for this engine online also show the 2 o-rings. I'm not sure why, unless it's just provided as an extra or something. I didn't find any place for another o-ring to go, nor was there any mention of it in the Haynes manual.
I've come to learn the Haynes manual is not always entirely accurate. Especially in this instance. I mean, looking at Chapter 3 section 7, "Water pump - removal and installation", I don't see any easy way to remove the water pump without removing the timing belt tensioner (since that is mostly covering one of the bolts that attaches the pump to the block. Mind you, the middle timing belt cover doesn't come off easily either, not without some twisting and pulling. Also, the water pump neck doesn't come off easily without first loosening (removing) two more nuts that retain the plastic bracket that holds some of the upper wiring (since the plastic bracket goes over one of the bolts that makes up the neck).

It would do well for the Haynes authors to pick up some tips from these forums and then make the appropriate updates to their books :D
 
#27 · (Edited)
I got my parts from Toyota dealership and there was just one o-ring. This was for 4AFE engine, but I cannot imagine why or where one would need another o-ring for 7AFE.
Unless the second o-ring goes where the elbow attaches to the head. But as far as I remember it is just a metal-sheet gasket with rubber-ish coating that sits between the head and elbow. I only replaced one o-ring where the pump is attached to the block. Did not have any leaks.
 
#33 ·
I figured it all out last night when I changed the hose. The hose I got has a 33mm I.D. Since the parts department didn't have a gasket in stock, I cut one out of rubberized fiber sheet. The original's coating(which I suspect is nitrile) was actually brittle and flaking off around the outer edges, so it was probably pretty old.

The hose was NOT cheap, BTW. For the same $15, you're better off buying a foot of universal hose and having enough for four Toyota equivalents. The gasket was only going to be $0.98, though. :rolleyes:
 
#35 ·
Im trying to find out if it's possible to remove and replace the water pump bypass hose without having to take everything apart. I replaced every water hose on my rolla with a silicone set and in the package it comes with this hose the takes place of my bulging one
 
#36 ·
Like waking old treads up from dead, huh?

Yes it's possible. I did it. The elbow pipe needs to come off. You will also likely have to cut the old hose in two as it's hard to get off until the elbow is off.

I did it without lifting the car but it would have been much easier if I had lifted it and had access from below too.

I have since replaced the water pump.
 
#37 ·
That's my job (; lol but I was thinking is it possible to put in the new one without removing the elbow. The new one I have is much more flexible since it's silicone and I was thinking of folding it and getting the hose to align on both of the ends and throwing some worm clamps in place. I feel maybe too confident from yesterday since I changed all the heater hoses and the throttle coolant lines (which were kind of a bitch) but went down perfectly. I had to disconnect the throttle body for those tiny hoses
 
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#39 ·
I was thinking is it possible to put in the new one without removing the elbow. The new one I have is much more flexible since it's silicone and I was thinking of folding it and getting the hose to align on both of the ends and throwing some worm clamps in place.
Nope. Not a chance in [pick your favorite hot destination] you'll be able to do that. The reason is the flanges between the elbow and the water pump are so close to each other that you literally only have less than 1/2" gap. I don't care if it's silicone, you will NOT be able to thread a new hose on without disconnecting either the pump or the elbow or both.
 
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