Thank you everyone for helping me out. This is the first time I ever done anything like this and it turned out pretty good. Here are a few pictures and key steps with some tips that I learned and could help the next person doing it. In my case, I only replaced the strut because my budget is limited. If you have money, this would be a good time to replace other components too such as the coil spring, the rubber seat, the strut bearing and sway bar link.
1- If you are in Canada, go to Canadian Tire and get their spring compressor. They will loan to you for 48 hours. You pay $90 for the tool and when you return it, they refund your deposit so it is free. I did not even buy the struts from them.
2- Once the car is on jack stands and the wheels taken off. Tackle the sway bar link first that is attached to the strut. It is pretty hard to remove. You have to use a 14 mm wrench and restraint the center bolt from turning using a 5mm allen key socket. It was so hard, I ended up stripping the allen key hole so ended up using a vise grip and grab the bolt from behind by pushing away the rubber boot.
3- next, loosen the two big bolts using a breaker bar and 17mm socket. You might need another one on the other side to prevent the bolt from turning. Even if I use super penetrating lubricant and let it sit for an hour, these bolts were very hard. I tried my electric impact wrench but no luck. It took me almost and hour to get these two bolts out.
4- brake line bracket: there is a tab similar to a C-clip that holds the brake line fitting to the strut bracket. Use a pair of plier and pull out on the clip. The factory bracket on the strut that holds the brake line is not slotted. You either have the choice of unbolting the brake line fitting and having to bleed the line afterward or you can take the easy way by cutting a slot in the old strut bracket with a hack saw and use a pair of pliers to bend away the bracket to free up the brake line
5- Unscrew the three nuts that holds the upper strut mount (behind the rear seat back), using 12mm socket. DO NOT UNSCREW THE CENTER BOLT OF THE UPPER STRUT AT THIS TIME. After you remove the 3 nuts, the whole strut assembly can now be pulled down through the strut well.
6- Use the spring compressor to compress the coil spring. Note that I took a black marker and made some marks on the upper coil and the strut mount to line up later. When the spring is sufficiently compressed, test to see if the the upper strut mount is unloaded and free to rotate before removing the center nut.
7- This is the coil spring alone, compressed state
8- Re-assemble the new strut: in my case, I reused the lower rubber spring seat, it was still good. I put a new accordeon boot over the new strut. Then inserted the coil spring over the new strut, lined up the lower end correctly so it sits in the recess part of the seat correctly. Finally, install the upper strut mount and center nut. Slowly release the coil spring evenly on each side and make sure the spring seats properly on the bottom and on top, use the pen mark made earlier to help align.
9- Re-install the assemby in the well: use a floor jack to help position the assembly and to line up the two bolts. Tighten them to specs and put back the three nuts that hold the upper strut.
10- the last step is to re-install the sway bar link and the brake line bracket. The bracket on the new strut is not slotted so I cut a slot and bend away the bracket to insert the brake line. Once the line is re-inserted, bend back the bracket and re-insert the clip.
This is the brake line re-installed through the slotted bracket and with the retaining clip. Easy, no need to disassemble the brake line and deal with bleeding the line.