Ignition timing

[awildman]

Just got done changing my timing belt. When I got that wrapped up, I checked my timing. It was 13 degrees BTDC. Book calls for 10. I usually drive between 50 and 200 ft above sea level. Is 13 OK, or should I move back to 10?

I wanted to adjust it, but I couldn't get the distributor to rotate. For some unexplained reason it's stuck. I ran out of daylight and gave up on it for tonight. Anybody else have this problem? Solution?

[Bitter]

you checked it with the diag port jumpered and engine hot right? 13 won't really hurt anything beyond the fact that you may....
1. get some ping/knock under heavy loads with 87 octane fuel
2. not pass the NOX part of an emissions test

fill it up with 89 octane and just drive it, i drove mine for years set to ~15 deg advance and using 89 octane without issue. if anything i felt a little more torque at part throttle than i did before.

[awildman]

Yes, I tested it hot and jumpered. The timing jumps around way too much to get a good reading otherwise. I'm more concerned that I can't get the dist to rotate than the actual timing. Would it be stupid to use penetrating oil around the base of the dist housing?

[Bitter]

what year is your car? its only adjustable on the 93-95 model years and even then theres a couple 95's which are not adjustable.

[awildman]

It's a 94. It's irrelevant now because in better light this morning I found a second distributor housing bolt. Way back under it in a not-easy-to-access place. Loosened up both of them and voila!

I test drove at 10 degrees and at 15 degrees. 15 seemed to have more power. Is this true or am I smoking crack?

[Bitter]

not on crack, you get a little more torque at the cost of emissions and engine wear and some top end power. its a little tougher/hotter on the pistons/valves/head. if you're going to leave it at 15 or even 13 i really suggest you run 89 octane fuel.

read up some on ignition timing and knock/preignition. it can get pretty complex!

[speedy25]

The more advance you have, the more power you get.

Well in theory that is. There is a point where you get diminishing returns, like when the engine knocks itself to death.

If there are no issues with knock I would have left it at 13.

-SP

[kevinwatson]

Originally Posted by awildman

Yes, I tested it hot and jumpered. The timing jumps around way too much to get a good reading otherwise. I'm more concerned that I can't get the dist to rotate than the actual timing. Would it be stupid to use penetrating oil around the base of the dist housing?

Can you please tell how to check the timing or point me to some internet resource where I can read myself? My car is a 1996 standard. I want to check the degrees for a long time. Appreciate you help.

-Kevin

[awildman]

It's in the Haynes manual. In the chapter about ignition systems.

Tools necessary: timing light, white paint pen, 12 mil combo wrench, and a paperclip.

If you have OBD II forget about it. Your timing is not adjustable.

I'm off to play music with friends now. If I'm awake enough I'll spell it out for you when I get back. Maybe tomorrow. Cheers.