Howdy from California - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

ruprickt · 09-16-2009, 04:53 PM

Hi all,
Nice Forum! I have been searching it today because I just inherited a 1993 Corolla automatic with 150K on it. It had been sitting for six months and it just started right up. Engine light is on and i am in California so I gotta fix it to get it smogged. So I am going to use the forum to see if it is something I can fix. So far I found this:

You can access the code by jumping diagnostic terminals TE1 and E1

Now I just gotta find out where those pesky terminals are....

Cheers

gizzer777 · 09-16-2009, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruprickt

Hi all,
Nice Forum! I have been searching it today because I just inherited a 1993 Corolla automatic with 150K on it. It had been sitting for six months and it just started right up. Engine light is on and i am in California so I gotta fix it to get it smogged. So I am going to use the forum to see if it is something I can fix. So far I found this:

You can access the code by jumping diagnostic terminals TE1 and E1

Now I just gotta find out where those pesky terminals are....

Cheers

Nice Find!That probably uses OBD I diags. Kragen or autozone should be able to help you out for free (I know they will read the newer OBDII codes so it should be no problem!
Good Luck

ruprickt · 09-16-2009, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gizzer777

Nice Find!That probably uses OBD I diags. Kragen or autozone should be able to help you out for free (I know they will read the newer OBDII codes so it should be no problem!
Good Luck

Hi, Thanks for the tip on OBD1! I found my answer:

The diagnosis system is located under the hood next to the air filter housing. You will need to bridge connections TE1 and E1 with the paperclip to test the check engine light.

This forum rules!

***zythr*** · 09-17-2009, 08:42 AM

Hi: That is a nice find. If you have not done so, Change the oil, With the car sitting so long, the protective oil would have a chance to settle back into the pan.

iToaster · 09-17-2009, 03:23 PM

TE1 and E1 under the hood in the diagnostic connector. Turn the key to on (no need to start the engine) and the check engine light will flash the number of the code (generally a few flashes followed by a short pause, then a few more flashes, followed by a longer pause and then it repeats or goes to the next code). Write down the code number and post it in this thread so we can help you with it.

ruprickt · 09-17-2009, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iToaster

TE1 and E1 under the hood in the diagnostic connector. Turn the key to on (no need to start the engine) and the check engine light will flash the number of the code (generally a few flashes followed by a short pause, then a few more flashes, followed by a longer pause and then it repeats or goes to the next code). Write down the code number and post it in this thread so we can help you with it.

Thank you for offering to help!

I just drove it home this morning and pulled the codes. Here is what I got:
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal

I called Toyota and verified that the car does not have California emissions which means there is not a second O2 sensor after the Cat, this made me happy haha. Rock Auto has the BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1562002 for $27 shipped. Or should I spend the extra money for the DENSO Part # 2342055 $50 shipped.

After I pulled the codes I reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. The car had been sitting for a long time so I wanted to see if it will throw the codes again. Then I drove it for 5 minutes and the light did not come back on. As far as the Throttle Position Sensor I am not sure what it does and if it should be replaced if the code is sent again, or if it just needs to be adjusted? The car did fast idle when I put in neutral at a stop light. Rock Auto has the Throttle Postion Sensor AIRTEX Part # 5S5172 $76. I will change the O2 sensor as it may help with economy and save the Earth.

Thanks again!

speedy25 · 09-17-2009, 09:52 PM

There are "soft" and "hard" codes. Soft ones expire and can come back or never come back. Hard codes are always there and you can be sure when the CEL goes on right away you will have something to fox.

Pull your O2 sensor and give it a wire brushing. Many times cleaning deposits off them will make then useful for a bunch more miles.

-SP

Corpsey · 09-18-2009, 02:25 PM

I would change your fuel filter as well. I parked mine for 2 years and I couldn't figure out why it was running lean. The fuel sitting in the filter had gelled and was choking the engine. Causing an engine light.

ruprickt · 09-22-2009, 03:03 PM

Hi,

So I broke a 5 wheel studs taking off the lug nuts. The car has generic steel wheel with a large center hub. I think the lugs were not torqued correctly and the wheels shifted and bent the studs.

Update:
I just bought some 1992 Mazda Miata wheels for $200 with good rubber on them. They have a 54.1 center hub so they fit good and snug. The back wheel studs were easy to replace. I can't get to the front ones because the two 17mm bolts holding on the brake caliper are frozen. So I have 3 lugs on each of the front tires. I am going to ask the garage that is doing my smog test to loosen them for me then I should be good to go.

Thank you,

ruprickt · 10-28-2009, 08:49 PM

So I finally got it registered and started driving it to my new job this week. I commute five miles each way to work. It ran fine on Monday and Tuesday. This morning I started it up and it was idling rough as in the car would shake when stopped at a light. It also lacked power by about 30-50%. About half way to work it died on me at a light when I gave it throttle. I started it at the light about three more times each time it died when I gave it throttle. I pushed it to a parking space on the side of the road and walked to work, late of course.

The engine light did finally come back on yesterday after I had originally cleared the codes about 20 miles ago. It came back as a 7 i believe this is a "Throttle Position Sensor" error.

I went back after work and put some dry gas in it, thinking that it may be water in the tank as it had sat a long time before I owned it. It started up a few more times but died when I gave it throttle. I let it idle the last time until it died on its own and now it will not start. It does turn over.

The short question is if I can find out how to replace the TPS will it bring the car back to life? It is parked on the side of the road so I won't be able to troubleshoot it that easily. So I was wondering if the TPS could be responsible for it not starting, and not being able to run when I give it throttle. If so then I may give it a shot. If not then I will get it towed to a shop.

Thank you!

iToaster · 10-28-2009, 09:27 PM

If the TPS is bad it definitely won't respond correctly when given throttle (as you describe). If you can get a new TPS (or one from the junkyard) and hook it up it should fire right up and run as it should. If you don't know where the TPS is, it's the plastic black thing on the back of the throttle body.

ruprickt · 10-29-2009, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iToaster

If the TPS is bad it definitely won't respond correctly when given throttle (as you describe). If you can get a new TPS (or one from the junkyard) and hook it up it should fire right up and run as it should. If you don't know where the TPS is, it's the plastic black thing on the back of the throttle body.

I went to try and start it up this morning but no go. I was able to locate the TPS on the throttle body so thanks for your post! The TPS is about $100 new so I am going to get it towed to a garage to troubleshoot it before I spend the money. Also read on some other posts about listening for the fuel pump to turn on. I could not hear the fuel pump. I will post more when I figure out what the problem is.

Thank you!

1jzdreamer · 10-31-2009, 11:37 AM

A wrecker should have a tps for practically nothing.

Bitter · 10-31-2009, 01:26 PM

a new TPS has to be calibrated when installed.

ruprickt · 11-04-2009, 07:15 PM

Mechanic said it was the distributor. I asked him to find a used one if possible. He said he was able to fix the coil on the distributor and changed the plugs and wires for a total of $250. He said the water pump is making noise and should probably be replaced. I am going to look and see how hard it is to change the water pump on this engine. I have changed a few in the past on my Jeep Cherokee.

Not sure about the TPS yet. Maybe he calibrated it. I will find out more soon.