I have a 1996 Corolla DX, 1.6 L, manual transmission
as far as I remember, my car has always used up some oil for the last 10 years. I usually change my oil every 5,000 km. Midway through the interval, around 2,500 km, I have to add about half bottle (one pint) to bring the level to the full mark on the oil stick
I have read some oil comsumption is common and considered normal. Is half liter per 2,500 km normal?
the car runs perfectly, I don't see any blue smoke or anything
I have been assuming that the 1.8L are oil burners compared to ours. Can someone confirm or is this just talk? Sometimes my car seems to be low but I haven't pinpointed if it was from oil or spent additives. Right now at 135k miles, I don't think I go through more than 8 ounces if even that in 3k miles. The oil is decent color now at 2k miles (med brown). I would recommend a purolator filter if you don't have a preference. I don't know if it matters for burning but when my color changed at about 100k miles I started to get a little paranoid and got rid of the fram. You can also increase viscosity to 40 weight if you want. It might help on burning. Mix one quart of 40 weight with two quarts of 30 weight to be crazy Don't listen to foolish talk about mixing weights as long as you aren't arbitrary about it. The higher number (40) is going to have a greater bang than the 30 and that is why people say don't mix but it's fine.
My car 1.6L engine has almost 200,000 km (120,000 miles) that is considered low for a Corolla but I live in the northern climate too where it is very cold in the winter so engines wear out faster
BDSL: your mom's car at 300k did it have the timing belt replaced? at what mileage was it replaced?
I have been assuming that the 1.8L are oil burners compared to ours. Can someone confirm or is this just talk?
Never noticed any problems out of the ordinary on my 7A-FE. Note that some oil consumption is normal on all cars, even new ones. It will consume more if you're constantly running your engine at high RPMs. Just top up as necessary.
I'm currently running a thick 30-weight full synthetic oil (that's closer to a 40 when operating temperature is reached).
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My car 1.6L engine has almost 200,000 km (120,000 miles) that is considered low for a Corolla but I live in the northern climate too where it is very cold in the winter so engines wear out faster
BDSL: your mom's car at 300k did it have the timing belt replaced? at what mileage was it replaced?
Make sure you use the proper grade of oil (i.e. 5W30 or 0W30) for the winter.
Timing belt was replaced every 100k as per service manual. The last time it was replaced was 200k. It is now approaching 300k. I am planning to replace all the seals / gaskets, idlers, tensions, belts, water pump, etc....
Make sure you use the proper grade of oil (i.e. 5W30 or 0W30) for the winter.
Timing belt was replaced every 100k as per service manual. The last time it was replaced was 200k. It is now approaching 300k. I am planning to replace all the seals / gaskets, idlers, tensions, belts, water pump, etc....
I am due soon for timing belt, water pump is still original so it would be a good time to change it too right?
are you going to do the timing belt and water pump yourself?
I am due soon for timing belt, water pump is still original so it would be a good time to change it too right?
are you going to do the timing belt and water pump yourself?
Yes, change it. The seals/gaskets and all the components are likely to be 14 years old. And they are labour intensive to get to.
I did timing belt, water pump, seals, etc on my 97 Lexus ES300 and 91 MR2. The Corolla should be straight forward. I was told Corolla is easy. So I guess I will save my mom some $$$$. Make sure you get yourself the Toyota service manual.
I have the Haynes manual, that should be good enough right?
I attempted to do the timing belt a couple weeks ago but I could not remove the valve cover, it was so stuck. I removed the couple bolts on the cover, removed the spark plug wires, the alternator wire and used a wooden block and hammer to tap so hard but the valve cover did not even bulge so I got discouraged and stopped.
The other thing I am concerned is to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off. The Haynes manual says to remove the starter and jam a big screw driver into the fly wheel to prevent it from turning when you remove the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley. Also, I have read about the trick of jamming a breaker bar against the frame of the car or the floor and crank the engine for one second or two to loosen that bolt, what do you think? As I understand, you need a pulley puller to pull that crankshaft pulley off. I have never used a puller but I guess I will find out
if you do it soon, please document the process with pics for all of us
so the breaker bar trick works for you every time? does this method risks damaging something like breaking bolt itself or the crankshaft ? if the bolt head break, that is a major headache to drill it out right?
how long do you have to crank the engine? I assume you have to unplug the spark plug wires first to prevent engine from running ?
as for my head cover, I remove the fasteners but the thing did not move. With a bit of searching on this forum, someone posted that you have to remove the rubber grommets too otherwise the thing would not move, I will try that on my next attempt
I have only done timing belt on 2 vehicles: 97 Lexus ES300 and 91 MR2 turbo. Both times, I used the breaker bar without any issue. But you have to make sure you know which way the crank turns. Bolt comes out counter-clockwise....and I only crank the engine for a slit second. You can remove the EFI fuse so the car will not start.
I will probably do the timing belt next summer....
I have a 1996 corolla 1.8 auto transmission (approaching 144,000).
One cause of not so much burning oil, but rather oil consumption it is possible that your oil seals/gaskets are wearing out. I used to replace a pint to a quart between oil changes (after replacing them all, except the rear main seal), I haven't had to add any oil between changes (and I just had the 3rd one done last month).
I'd say a pint is normal between changes otherwise (good option is to buy oil in bulk in the containers like they use for antifreeze) and keep it in the garage (I've not had to use the one I purchased in the time I had the seals replaced).
I had the seals done between 130-140K miles...so they should be good for the remaining life of the car...
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Sometimes my car seems to be low but I haven't pinpointed if it was from oil or spent additives. Right now at 135k miles, I don't think I go through more than 8 ounces if even that in 3k miles. The oil is decent color now at 2k miles (med brown). I would recommend a purolator filter if you don't have a preference. I don't know if it matters for burning but when my color changed at about 100k miles I started to get a little paranoid and got rid of the fram. You can also increase viscosity to 40 weight if you want. It might help on burning. Mix one quart of 40 weight with two quarts of 30 weight to be crazy
Don't listen to foolish talk about mixing weights as long as you aren't arbitrary about it. The higher number (40) is going to have a greater bang than the 30 and that is why people say don't mix but it's fine.
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