It just started this morning and for no apparent reason, but in idle, acceleration to about 35 and after getting to 50 and taking my foot off the gas, the car stutters and harder at 50 mph.
It seems as if the engine is not getting enough air or fuel, although it kinda smells like it's running rich which makes me think it might be the TPS.
I'm stuck. I've cleaned everything I can see and the check engine light is still on and the car is still idling rough and seems to be lacking power. I have also been burning off oil, mainly in the morning, there will be a decent sized cloud after I start the car.
Get your codes read. Free at Autozone/Advanced Auto.
__________________ Corolla Number TWO OLD: Corolla 1- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 225k Miles orig. motor, 129k trans. - TOTALED. NEW: Corolla 2- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 161k Miles on motor and trans.
Autozone will only do '96 and above (OBD II), for your Corolla (OBD I) you can open the diagnostic port under the hood and jump TE1 and E1 with a paperclip and turn the key to on (don't start the engine) to get your check engine light to flash your code (flashes the first digit, pauses briefly, flashes the second digit, pauses longer, repeats or goes to the next code). Write down your code(s) and post it(them) here and someone should help you out.
Autozone will only do '96 and above (OBD II), for your Corolla (OBD I) you can open the diagnostic port under the hood and jump TE1 and E1 with a paperclip and turn the key to on (don't start the engine) to get your check engine light to flash your code (flashes the first digit, pauses briefly, flashes the second digit, pauses longer, repeats or goes to the next code). Write down your code(s) and post it(them) here and someone should help you out.
Cool. I didn't know I could do this for this problem. I did it in the past (enrolled in the Toyota program at my communtiy college) for my ABS code.
Will try on break in about an hour or so and post the numbers. Does anyone have a pic of the locations of those 2 ports I need to jump? I lost my paperwork that had it. Will check google, if I have a minute. Found it. No need to post pic.
Thanks all.
-Sec
Last edited by Secundinius; 09-22-2009 at 09:58 AM.
Could this issue still be caused by the distrubitor? Or should I be looking into fuel pump/injectors? MAF, possibly? Trying to narrow it down by the cheapest fix first cause money is kinda tight at the moment.
Last edited by Secundinius; 09-22-2009 at 12:20 PM.
I just pulled the dist cap off. The rotor tip seems to be a bit burnt. There are visable marks/divits on the tip and there are two surface cracks on the inside of the dist cap, going thru 2 posts. I cleaned the rotor button and inside tips of the dist with ele parts cleaner and started the car. It ran smoothly for about a minute and a half, then started to stutter, *slightly* less then before, although still persistant. I drove the car for about 4-5 minutes and the check engine light turned back off, and is still off.
In park, the stutter is only at low RPM, im guessing >1K, since I don't have a rev gauge. In drive it's about the same as before just slightly less of a stutter. I seem to have a little power back. I also noticed the last tune up was performed in 11-02, at 146K miles and 7 years later the car now has 173K miles. Unfortunately, the tune up will have to wait till Friday for me to get paid.
If anyone thinks it may still be something different or I possibly overlooked something, please let me know. As I said eariler, I'm in school to learn about this stuff, so any adivce will be a great help to me.
I just pulled the dist cap off. The rotor tip seems to be a bit burnt. There are visable marks/divits on the tip and there are two surface cracks on the inside of the dist cap, going thru 2 posts. I cleaned the rotor button and inside tips of the dist with ele parts cleaner and started the car. It ran smoothly for about a minute and a half, then started to stutter, *slightly* less then before, although still persistant. I drove the car for about 4-5 minutes and the check engine light turned back off, and is still off.
In park, the stutter is only at low RPM, im guessing >1K, since I don't have a rev gauge. In drive it's about the same as before just slightly less of a stutter. I seem to have a little power back. I also noticed the last tune up was performed in 11-02, at 146K miles and 7 years later the car now has 173K miles. Unfortunately, the tune up will have to wait till Friday for me to get paid.
If anyone thinks it may still be something different or I possibly overlooked something, please let me know. As I said eariler, I'm in school to learn about this stuff, so any adivce will be a great help to me.
if you found that the distributor has cracks in it, replace it.
__________________ Corolla Number TWO OLD: Corolla 1- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 225k Miles orig. motor, 129k trans. - TOTALED. NEW: Corolla 2- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 161k Miles on motor and trans.
Yeah, I am replacing it this weekend when I get paid. I just replaced the PVC valve cause the old one was looking really bad.
I still don't get why it is running lean. I'm starting to think it has something to do with the MAF. I'm thinking it got gunked up, so I'm gonna try to locate it (can't figure out where it is and I can't find my Chiltons manual) and clean it out. I'm figuring that it's gunked up, getting a bad reading, although air flow is still good, and causing less fuel to be pumped into the engine, causing the lean reading.
And of course the tune up will be done this weekend, probably Friday either during lunch or right after work. The check engine light came back on this morning as well.
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