What oil do you use?

[93geoprizm]

I am approaching 138K miles on my 93 prizm with the 7afe. Ive noticed oil burning recently and was wondering what should I change my oil to? So far its been the conventional autozone oil and stuff, but now I need to put something more reputable since oil is burning. yea i know the valve seals could be going bad but for now help me out on what I should put on my next oil change which is coming soon

[PhatRoyale]

I use Castrol Syntec 0W30.

[93geoprizm]

Originally Posted by PhatRoyale

I use Castrol Syntec 0W30.

oh ok, what good is 0 viscosity for?
I know i def cant go below 10 since i already am burning oil so is there a 15 out there?
What do you think of this for me?
http://advanceauto.shoplocal.com/adv...pagenumber%3d4

[PhatRoyale]

Originally Posted by 93geoprizm

oh ok, what good is 0 viscosity for?
I know i def cant go below 10 since i already am burning oil so is there a 15 out there?
What do you think of this for me?
http://advanceauto.shoplocal.com/adv...pagenumber%3d4

That's a common misconception that a lot of noobies have. Allow me to explain.

The first number indicates the viscosity flow @ startup. Considering that you're located in Michigan where the winters are cold, this is what you want: to reduce stress on a high mileage engine to allow for easier starts.

However, you will need to read the full manufacturers specifications of the oil to understand it's properties in more detail, the cST @ 100*C (viscosity when running hot) is 12.1, which indicates that under full engine operating temperature, it's closer to a 40 weight oil, so it's easily thick enough to reduce your oil burn off.

I'm at a little over 138K on my Corolla, and after much research, I came to the conclusion that this is the ideal oil for older cars like ours. It's also has excellent shear-resistant properties and is a group IV oil, which indicates that it's a full synthetic. However, make sure that you buy the European formula that says made in Germany on the back of the bottle in small writing to make sure that you're getting the real thing.

[93geoprizm]

Originally Posted by PhatRoyale

That's a common misconception that a lot of noobies have. Allow me to explain.

The first number indicates the viscosity flow @ startup. Considering that you're located in Michigan where the winters are cold, this is what you want: to reduce stress on a high mileage engine to allow for easier starts.

However, you will need to read the full manufacturers specifications of the oil to understand it's properties in more detail, the cST @ 100*C (viscosity when running hot) is 12.1, which indicates that under full engine operating temperature, it's closer to a 40 weight oil, so it's easily thick enough to reduce your oil burn off.

I'm at a little over 138K on my Corolla, and after much research, I came to the conclusion that this is the ideal oil for older cars like ours. It's also has excellent shear-resistant properties and is a group IV oil, which indicates that it's a full synthetic. However, make sure that you buy the European formula that says made in Germany on the back of the bottle in small writing to make sure that you're getting the real thing.

ok while researching, thats what i had heard which at that time made sense to me, hence my reason. What I was told was that since youre already burning oil, going lower would make it burn more and if you try to come back to the higher viscosity, your engine would not be able to operate as it did before and would burn even more oil. Now what youre saying is new to me so thats why im just trying to do more research on what would be a good fit. I see youre pretty much in the same boat as me as far as the mileage goes. Why Castrol? What about other brands?
As far as recommendation, this is what ive gotten so far
Mobil 1 10w40
Valvoline 10W30 high mileage which is a synthetic blend
Mobil 1 10w30 high milage
And whats up with Synthetic and Synthetic blend? I see conventional 10w30's and then synthetic 10w30. Whats the difference, which should I put?

[Bitter]

5w-30 valvoline max-life blend would be fine, is cheap, readily available, etc etc. its good oil. you might even be able to find the full synth max-life in 5w-40 weight.

[kevmac]

get a good filter to help filter the burnt crap/ blow by contamination. I recommend synthetic because it tends to last longer between changing and since the oil is burning and polluting itself, I think longer life oil will help preserve the components better. Get the 5w 30 and some extra bottles of 10w 40 to add as you are topping the burnt oil regularly. Or you can mix it up or add 10w40 alone but I would not personally because it is very thick for our designed engines. Mobil 1 is at costco and sometimes on sale. It is also part of great deals at autozone periodically.

[Rip The E Brake]

I use 5w-30 Penzoil High Mileage. The car has over 220k miles on it, and I fear it is too late to make the switch, along with the Fram ToughGuard filter.

[93geoprizm]

Originally Posted by Rip The E Brake

I use 5w-30 Penzoil High Mileage. The car has over 220k miles on it, and I fear it is too late to make the switch, along with the Fram ToughGuard filter.

yea i think im gonna get this from advanced auto parts since its on sale and theres a $10 MIR for it too. Im gonna try the 5W-30 out, thanks guys

[ford_jj]

Originally Posted by PhatRoyale

I use Castrol Syntec 0W30.

I use the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 synthetic motor oil from Germany year round.
& so do others...

It is actually better suited for summer; than winter usage.
While it meets the cold crank rating for -35°C/-31°F (Castrol says it will cold crank at -40°C/F).
It is a real thick 30 viscosity oil; almost a 40 viscosity motor oil.
(viscosity @ 100°C is 12.1 cst, HTHS at 150°C is about 3.5)
ACEA A3 spec rating.

[fraso]

I like 0W-30 oils too. I'm running Esso XD-3 Extra 0W-30 in my wife's 2002 Sienna right now and will be be switching my aunt's 2004 Corolla over to it at her next oil change.

ACCCC Engine Oil Article

[PhatRoyale]

Originally Posted by 93geoprizm

What I was told was that since youre already burning oil, going lower would make it burn more and if you try to come back to the higher viscosity, your engine would not be able to operate as it did before and would burn even more oil. Now what youre saying is new to me so thats why im just trying to do more research on what would be a good fit. I see youre pretty much in the same boat as me as far as the mileage goes.Why Castrol? What about other brands? As far as recommendation, this is what ive gotten so far
Mobil 1 10w40
Valvoline 10W30 high mileage which is a synthetic blend
Mobil 1 10w30 high milage
And whats up with Synthetic and Synthetic blend? I see conventional 10w30's and then synthetic 10w30. Whats the difference, which should I put?

[/quote]

I'm not burning oil at the moment. I merely said that a bit of oil consumption is normal.

I've had good results with that oil, it's a genuine group IV synthetic, not group III like Mobil 1 is now.

It's not a thin oil at all, it's only thin at startup. It's not energy conserving either. It's not the cheapest either, but it's one of the best oils that money can buy, in othe words, the price-performance ratio of it is top notch.

Go and ask some of the guys on BITOG and see what they come up with.

Full-synthetic > Synthetic blend.

[gameguru1360]

for my 7th generation rolla, I've been using castrol synthetic as well, but have been testing Marvel's Mystery oil in the crankcase. I have noticed a small boost in performance, but not really convinced it works in the crankcase. Mostly I've been using it in the gas tank. Since I usually fill up when the tank gets to half full, I use 2 ounces between fill ups. Recommended dosage is 4 ounces for every 10 gallons of gas, but at half full, it comes out to about 5.8 gallons at fill up, so 2 ounces works. When used in the gas tank, it acts as a fuel injection cleaner and I have noticed much smoother idling and acceleration and about 1-2 more mpg.

[Flashmn]

20W50 summer 5W40 winter

[93geoprizm]

ok so i bought the penzoil high mileage 5w 30 for $10 and a tough guard oil filter cause, well $10 bucks, so why not