Motor stalled after rebuild - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Rick-s · 09-22-2009, 09:32 PM

I recently purchased a 93 corolla with a 1.6 4afe motor. It had a blown head gasket and had filled the cooling system with oil. It was also blowing oil from the tailpipe when started (yes it did run and not too bad considering!)

I'm 44 yrs old and hadn't rebuilt an engine since I was 17 so I was quite rusty. However, I took it on and stripped the motor down.

Here's what I did.

Removed the head and had it re-surfaced and a valve job done.

Pulled the pistons thoroughly cleaned them including the oil weep holes replaced the rings and bearings.

Replaced all main bearings and thrust bearings.

Replaced the water pump

Replaced the timing belt and idler

Thoroughly cleaned and re-assembled everything.

I was thrilled when 2 days ago when I finally got everything back together and it fired up and ran and sounded pretty good.

I let it run for about 15 minutes with gentle revs made sure the coolant was flowing and everything seemed good.

Today I got plates on it so I decided to do a test drive. I took off and about a block and a half down the road it stalled. Like I turned it off. No weird noise, no warning, just dead.

It would not re-start. Turns over but absolutely doesn't even try to fire.

Any ideas??

I've searched the forum here and hadn't seen anything like it

Rick

kevmac · 09-22-2009, 09:45 PM

check all fuses in the bay and cab. like am2, etc. guarantee you blew one. I bet you $2

Quote:

Turns over but absolutely doesn't even try to fire.

how do you know?

sounds like am2 which is ignition and injector related.

edit: in other words, I bet you screwed up the ignition some how.

Rick-s · 09-22-2009, 09:50 PM

Thanks, I'll check the fuses. I was quite frustrated (and tired) after pushing the car back to my house.

Is there something I may have done to blow a fuse?? The motor sounded fine until it suddenly died.

Quote:

how do you know?

It just turns over and makes no sounds of firing. The fuse would make sense as it sounds like either no gas or no fire.

kevmac · 09-22-2009, 11:28 PM

I'm guessing, so check before planning the solution. If the fuses are all good, then do a spark test by pulling a plug wire and connecting a plug to it and grounding it to the block while cranking to see spark.

The fuel system could be the issue but I doubt it

You could also spray starting fluid in the throttle body and then crank to see if it will begin to start. Just a few thoughts.

Rick-s · 09-23-2009, 05:53 AM

I'll look at the car after work today. What is so odd is that it ran fine after all the work I did in the garage. Made no indication of any issue at all. Drove down the road fine, turned the corner and got about 50 ft down the next road and it was like I turned off the key. I coasted off the side of the road and while the engine would turn over fine, it makes no attempt to fire. I'll look over all the wiring connections as well as the fuses. A quick scan after I pushed it home had shown nothing irregular - all the injector wires and distributor wires were all connected firmly.

Hopefully later today I'll have better news. The car had 174,500 miles on it when I got it. But I had read several places (including here) that those motors are good for a lot more. The previous owner had (at a local mechanic) new front brakes, rotors, full rear suspension, new starter, and tires put on all within the past year. When the head gasket blew he was done... so I got what I felt was a good deal. I will admit, I was quite surprised with how little wear there was on the bearings and cylinder walls for a motor with this many miles.

I plan for this to be a car for my son to use when he starts driving within the next year. So I'm hoping it's something simple.

Thanks for any help,

Rick

speedy25 · 09-23-2009, 09:16 AM

I've noticed on jobs like you described, they typical problem is something not reconnetted properly, or something dislodged during work under the hood.

Check all your connectors that you may have come in contact with. You will probably find one you didnt push back together all the way.

-SP

TI-CAVA · 09-23-2009, 10:46 AM

any check engine light??? pull the code then post it here...

maybe a faulty sensor -not connecter properly

Rick-s · 09-23-2009, 04:40 PM

Check engine light didn't come on prior to the engine stalling. I don't have a code reader to check it with even if it had though.

I checked the fuses and all look good. Even the one's in the drivers side kick panel. I'll probably push this thing back into my garage and work on it this weekend. Got several activities during the week so I won't have time to really dig until then. I also unplugged and re-connected both plugs on the distributor to no avail. I'll update once I get a good look.

Thanks so much everyone. This is obviously a community of helpful souls and I do appreciate the input.

Rick

kevmac · 09-23-2009, 05:20 PM

1. spark test
2. check wires to fuel pump, injectors
3. check the cap and rotor

no reader for a 93'; there is a way to read codes though.

iToaster · 09-23-2009, 07:18 PM

If the CEL does come on, it's easy to get the code. On vehicles 1995 and older jump terminals TE1 and E1 in the diagnostics connector under the hood and turn the key to on to get the CEL to flash your code(s) (first digit, short pause, second digit, longer pause, next code or repeat).

1jzdreamer · 09-24-2009, 12:13 AM

How is the sensor ground at the back of the block (behind the starter), comes down from the plastic wire tray under the intake manifold? Plugs all tight at the distributor?
Losing the tps or map sensor connection would potentially not let it run as well.

Rick-s · 09-24-2009, 05:59 PM

Well, I managed a few extra minutes between tonights scheduled tasks and pulled the code.

I only get a code 12 which according to my chilton book is distributor related if I'm not mistaken. That would definitely explain the lack of running. I'll have to pull the cap and dig deeper this weekend.

Thanks for the heads up on how to pull the codes.

Rick-s · 09-24-2009, 06:43 PM

That code got me thinking and --- I in my deep thoughts --- it dawned on me.

I FORGOT TO TIGHTEN THE CAMSHAFT PULLEY BOLT!!!

Sure enough, I just ran out and popped the valve cover. The bolt was backed out all the way, the sheer pin was missing and the pulley was just spinning freely on the cam!! THANK GOD IT'S A NON INTERFERENCE ENGINE!!

Looks like Saturday I'll pull the timing belt covers, see if I can find the sheer pin, check my new timing belt (hopefully the pin didn't get caught up between it and the crank pulley), and put it all back together -- this time remembering to tighten ALL the bolts !!.

I'll let you guys all know how it goes after I'm done.

Thanks again for all the info and help. Had I not pulled that code, I'd still be wondering what went wrong.

Rick

BTW, no laughing

1jzdreamer · 09-24-2009, 10:32 PM

When I rebuilt my 20v, I lined the timing belt up wrong and almost was in tears before realizing it. I know how frustrating it can be. Glad you found it at least and that it fell apart near home. Easy fix.

Rick-s · 09-25-2009, 12:22 PM

If I can't find that camshaft pulley pin, any Ideas on where to get one? I just called the Toyota dealer on my lunch and they told me they'd have to buy an entire camshaft to get that pin. Autozone doesn't list it on their site... Hopefully it's still floating around in the lower cover.