I have a '96 that just picked up a severe vibration, only when at speeds above 60 to 70 and mph, and only when under load.
The instant I let off the accelerator, no matter the speed, the vibration stops.
It definitely feels like it's coming from the left side, probably the left front side. The vibration is a lot worse when turning to the right. It's also worse up hill (under more load).
I've searched the forum; suggestions range from motor mounts, wheel balance, wheel bearings, to CV joints.
I don't think it's wheel balance, I've had that happen before. Bad balance keeps shaking for at least a short time after lifting off the gas. This stops the instant I lift off the gas.
190,000 miles, but the vast majority of them are highway miles (70% +)
I don't think it's the engine because the vibration definitely feels like it's coming from the left side, also because it happens more when turning right.
I'm also leaning towards it being a motor mount, but I don't have any significant vibration when stopped. Looks kind of expensive to change all the mounts, but that's what seems to be recommended everywhere I look, especially for a car with this many miles.
Its almost as if when you load the front axles up and they are pulling the car something is loose. When you release the axles are slowing the car so they sit back in the chassis.
How are the control arm bushings? Is the lower ball joint ok?
I assume under braking this vibration does not reappear...
Is it felt in the steering? As in a wobble/shudder, or does it feel more as if there was metal on metal from engine rpm/load?
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20v, 6 spd lsd
Boost, may you RIP.
Has to be a mount then. Id look at the mounts because at this point, id think it would be visually obvious if it was torn or shifted. Could even be the bolts for the mount at the subframe came loose.
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20v, 6 spd lsd
Boost, may you RIP.
I have the same problem and I have narrowed it down to the trans mount I have a 5 speed. Also because I have not dealt with this in a timely mannor I think my rear engine mount and axel is going as well. Sucks!
Quick question can you just jack up the car and pull off the crossmember to replace the trans mount?
That sounds kind of extreme. If you are talking about the mount that's under the air filter box, it is very easy to do from up top with a little support of a jack on the pan. You need to lower the crossmember and remove bolts from the front mount for the rear mount but don't need to remove crossmember.
edit: I'm not familiar with the manual trans mount if it's a different removal than the automatic.
The rear mount hes refferring to is under the steering rack bolted to the subframe. It goes from the rear of the bellhousing on the transmission to the subframe. You can drop the subframe to do that one, but be forewarned that you mess with your alignment when you do that, as the control arms attach to it and any sideways shift can play with camber angles and your steering center.
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20v, 6 spd lsd
Boost, may you RIP.
You know, check the cv joints. You can just reach in and try wiggling the shaft at the inner and outer joints. If the inner is worn, it could be a sign of it. I would check that before ordering mounts as the others suggested. Another way to check is lifting the car up on one side, putting the car in a high gear, and then see how much the wheel in the air turns each way. As you do this pay attention to the cv shaft and see where the play in the shaft is, if there is any. A little is normal, but if a inner joint is very worn it could be the issue. Outer joints tend to click in corners before getting to the point of vibration.
As for changing the trans mount, which one you referring to? Technically there are 3 bolting to the transmission.
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20v, 6 spd lsd
Boost, may you RIP.
I had this same exact problem except from 55-75 mph and dealt with it for a year!! I had to debate whether it was the motor mounts or the cv axles. I did a lot of research and finally decided to replace BOTH the cv axles. Don't replace them with auto parts store cv axles though like Autozone, Napa etc cause those suck and are cheaply made even though they're lifetime warranty but I would rather replace it once. I replaced mine with Raxles (www.Raxles.com) and they cost a little bit more but the cv boots are a lot thicker and better made and they use a special type of grease as well. Hope this solves your issue cause I know the feeling.
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