Fuel and spark, no start

[john]

My sister's 93 Corolla will not start. I have checked spark and fuel delivery. I changed the fuel filter and pump. I will check the timing next. My question is what should a healthy fuel pump deliver? I need a volume over a length of time because I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. What do I need to do to active only the fuel pump electrically? Any other ideas gladly accepted. I wish I had a manual!

[ganda1f]

Is it getting flooded? Spark plugs wet from fuel.
Perhaps idle air control valve (IAC) is stuck? It is located on the throttle body and eventually it gets clogged by the oily residue coming from the crankcase ventilation which is released into the intake. The IAC is operated electrically by the ECU. If the valve is stuck it won't open up during start-up. Have you tried starting with a little throttle?

[trife96]

Originally Posted by john

My sister's 93 Corolla will not start. I have checked spark and fuel delivery. I changed the fuel filter and pump. I will check the timing next. My question is what should a healthy fuel pump deliver? I need a volume over a length of time because I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. What do I need to do to active only the fuel pump electrically?!

The fact you changed the pump recently tells me it's most likely not the pump. Did you change it your self? I don't know what the "volume over time" is or if that's even possible to figure out. The fuel system is pressurized, with unused fuel returning to the tank. Fuel pressure should be around 40psi. Need a bit more info as to why her car wouldn't start initially. What made you decide to change the parts you did?

[speedy25]

I recently repaired an earlier corolla that was messed up by the owners buddy who said the fuel pump was bad. Haha! It was easy to check removed from the tank! It wasnt the problem. I DID have to hook it up to a battery charger to keep it spinning longer than the initial start sequence to get the car running again, since I also replaced the filter and ALL the fuel lines. (rust never sleeps!) If you really think the fuel pump/pressure is to blame, unhook the return line and see if a steady flow goes into the bucket you put under it. Of course standard safety rules apply to playing with flammable liquids. BE CAREFUL!

-SP

[john]

The volume flow over time according to a website (the website seemed to be reputable) was 1 liter every 30 seconds measured directly from the input line to the fuel rail. The car ran perfectly, back and forth to Maine (350 miles) the day before it would not start. More background, the car is rusting badly (230K miles) and I replaced all brake lines and fuel lines underneath the car about 2 months ago. The smaller diameter fuel fill line was rusted through and I plugged that. Yes, that needs to be replaced along with the tank! I'm wondering if somehow the plugged fuel fill line is affecting vacuum to the tank and/or fuel pump pressure since it is dead ended? I will unplug and see if it runs and run code check although the check engine light has never come on in this car. Only other issue I can come up with is timing. I will check that too!

[Flashmn]

The smaller diameter fuel fill line was rusted through and I plugged that. Yes, that needs to be replaced along with the tank! I'm wondering if somehow the plugged fuel fill line is affecting vacuum to the tank and/or fuel pump pressure since it is dead ended?

Well that is the breather line to the cap. So you might want to check what happens when you open the cap, does the problem go away.

As for measuring quantity of fuel, that wont help, it would if it was a carb engine you'd work with, but since its an EFI engine, you need pressure to the injectors. Pressure is developed by restricting fuel flow via the fuel pressure regulator. Now your pump may flow freely just fine, but if its broken, it might not be able to supply the correct pressure when in the system. Get where I'm going? Only way to check for fueling on an EFI car is to either hear the pump turn on (well you know it works) or attaching a fuel pressure gauge and checking for the correct fuel pressure.

[Jimp]

I had the same symptoms on a 93.
The timing belt had slipped - no broke. So there was fuel and spark and everthing turning the way it should be.

Take off the top cover of the timing belt and turn to TDC. Then the timing marks on the lower pully and the marks on the cam pulley.

[Bitter]

Originally Posted by Jimp

I had the same symptoms on a 93.
The timing belt had slipped - no broke. So there was fuel and spark and everthing turning the way it should be.

Take off the top cover of the timing belt and turn to TDC. Then the timing marks on the lower pully and the marks on the cam pulley.

thats probably whats going on.

[tangopampa]

If you do have spark, then it is probably something with the timing belt or fuel pump. But if you have no spark i would say change the distributor(the condenser goes bad). Replace the distributor and get peace of mind. If the car suddenly stopped while driving i would check with a used /new distributor). I have already changed 2 distributors in 2 different used cars.
I would not mess with the timing belt; that is the first thing i change when buying a used car. Break the timing belt=loose the engine.Timig belt replacement($200); broken timig belt(b elt replacement+ valve replacement+removing camshaft cover+camshaft+cover gasket;$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$)