First time poster here, just wanted to get some opinions on what might be wrong with the clutch mechanism on my corolla. When I first purchased it last year we noticed that the clutch was letting out very late, which is often time an indication that the clutch is going.
5 months ago the clutch was replaced and everything felt good, the friction point was where it should be and such. However, that great feeling didn't last too long. About 1-2 weeks after the new clutch was put in, I noticed that the friction point has returned to what it was originally (really really late).
This problem has only gotten worse, every time I start from a stop I almost stall if I am not careful.
Key points to consider:
-The fluid was not changed when we put in the new clutch. How might one go about doing that? Is it similar to flushing the brake fluid?
-Is there a physical clutch pedal adjustment that can be made to fix this issue? If so, how?
Any help and recommendations are greatly appreciated.
There is an adjuster on top of the clutch pedal and on the clutch slave.
How many miles on the car?
When you replaced the clutch, did you also replace the clutchmaster and slave?
You can bleed the system pretty much the same way you blled brakes. There's a bleed valve on the clutchmaster and one on the slave.
Chances are, since it's a '95, the fluid is dirty/contaminated. If the cylinder seals in the clutchmaster and slave are worn, the new fluid will more easily slip past the seals giving you even less pressure.
There is an adjuster on top of the clutch pedal and on the clutch slave.
How many miles on the car?
When you replaced the clutch, did you also replace the clutchmaster and slave?
You can bleed the system pretty much the same way you blled brakes. There's a bleed valve on the clutchmaster and one on the slave.
Chances are, since it's a '95, the fluid is dirty/contaminated. If the cylinder seals in the clutchmaster and slave are worn, the new fluid will more easily slip past the seals giving you even less pressure.
I forgot to mention that the clutch isn't as easy to push down as I think it should be. Is that a signal of old fluid?
As for the clutch adjustment, is there a more visual tutorial somewhere? I am more of a visual learner.
I forgot to mention that the clutch isn't as easy to push down as I think it should be. Is that a signal of old fluid?
No
Quote:
As for the clutch adjustment, is there a more visual tutorial somewhere? I am more of a visual learner.
Thanks.
I don't have one. Maybe one of the other memebers do. There should be a bolt at the top of the cluch pedal up under the dash.
The one on the slave is on the slave shaft on the side of the transmission.
Have the clutchmaster and slave ever been replaced?
Did you just replace the clutch disc or the whole clutch?
If the whole clutch was replaced ,were the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced ?
Sorry I don't have pics to help you but if you get underneath and have a look with a flash light, things should be obvious
If I remember right, you need to remove the clevis pin that secures the pedal to the push rod. You need to play with the travel distance of the push rod.
Sorry I don't have pics to help you but if you get underneath and have a look with a flash light, things should be obvious
If I remember right, you need to remove the clevis pin that secures the pedal to the push rod. You need to play with the travel distance of the push rod.
Do I need to take off the plastic dash beneath the steering wheel to have access?
Do I need to take off the plastic dash beneath the steering wheel to have access?
It would be alot easier, but if your small, and can work upside down, go for it.
__________________ Corolla Number TWO OLD: Corolla 1- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 225k Miles orig. motor, 129k trans. - TOTALED. NEW: Corolla 2- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 161k Miles on motor and trans.
It would be alot easier, but if your small, and can work upside down, go for it.
How might I go about taking off the panel?
I took some pictures of the pushrod earlier today. Would someone be so kind to detail what needs to be done where? From the looks of it there appears to be two nuts?
In addition, I noticed that the clutch pedal is sort of loose and squeaky, is there a separate adjustment for that?
It's been a while, I don't remember exactly 100% but maybe someone else can confirm:
1- the flat head screw on the left of your picture is the clevis pin. It secures the push rod to the pedal. You need to remove this pin by pulling on a small clip located on the other side using a long nose plier (that clip is not visible on your pics)
2- There are 2 adjustments you can make
a) freeplay of the pedal: unlock the small bolt on the push rod and turn that big thing that the small bolt rested against. Don't turn the push rod itself. The owner's manual says there is a couple mm freeplay on the pedal between the moment you press the pedal and the moment you feel resistance.
b) travel distance of the pushrod relative to the friction point: grab the pushrod itself and turn it toward or away from the firewall. Make sure to turn the whole pushrod. In your case since your friction point is to high, it means your pushrod is to much engaged so you need to back it out a few turns away from the firewall
oh yeah also if your clutch pedal makes squeeky rubbery sound when you press it, you need to tighten the whole pedal bracket that rests agains the firewall. In my case, the squeeking was caused because with time, the pedal bracket got a bit loose (there is a plastic liner that is squeezed between the pedal bracket and the firewall)
Thanks for the instructions hungt, now once I take out the clevis pin will it be hard to put it back in after i make my adjustments?
it is not hard by itself. It is tricky because the of the tight space and because you will be laying on your back with your hands stretched up
In my case, I remember I had to remove a couple of relays (those blue cubes thingy in your pics) to fit my hands in that space
I forgot to mention there is a 3rd adjustment you can make: pedal height. It is achieved by playing with that screw that is visible on your 2nd picture (the screw on the far left), this screw dictates how high the spring can pull on the pedal on its way up. I don't think you need to mess with that unless it is way out of specs.
I forgot to mention that the clutch isn't as easy to push down as I think it should be. Is that a signal of old fluid?
As pointed out there is possible mechanical reasons on the outside of the bellhousing. Old fluid wont cause your problem. It does help to further deteriorate the hydraulic system.
I think you have a bad pressure plate. I have had a handful over the years that didnt go "overcenter" and the force to make the clutch release was enough to damage the pedal box. When you push the pedal down it gets harder and harder to push as the pedal gets near the floor. Sorry I cant describe it any better. I hope you find an easier solution, but this may be it after you check everything else.
UPDATE: I was able to successfully adjust the pushrod and now the clutch engages much sooner (where it should)! Thanks hungt!
As for the squeaking issue, I tried tightening the 3 bolts mentioned but they were already pretty tight. Squeaking is still present.
Another minor issue that I failed to mention earlier is the fact that my clutch pedal has always been a little loose, aka. you can rattle it back and forth. Is there a bushing of sorts that is worn? Or can I fix it with one of the adjustment bolts?
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