My g/f and I went home back to Michigan last week for Thanksgiving and instead of taking my tacoma we drove my g/f's 97 corolla which gets A LOT better milage (I figured I saved >$120). Anyways, somewhere on the trip up it started to get cold out. I went to crank up the heat and all that was pushing was cold air. So fast-forward to this past weekend. I went to change the thermostat and looking in the usual location (upper radiator hose) I could not find it. I did notice that the location where the lower hose meets the engine is large enough to house the t-stat. Before I take this off can someone tell me if this is it or is it in another location? Please dont tell me its somewhere like behind the waterpump!
If I remember correctly, follow the lower radiator hose toward the engine and you will see a housing. The thermostat is located inside that housing.
Be careful when removing the housing bolts. I broke one of the screw inside the engine block and had to drill out the screw, lots of pain. So be careful, don't over torque it when you remove it, if it is tight, try liquid-wrench or the alike first
get the oem thermostat if you can, I heard some aftermarket ones can have a different temperature match. The oem one is pretty cheap, less than $20 if I remember right
also when installing the new thermostat, align the notch correctly (take note of the original notch position when removing your current thermostat)
you will need also to purchase a tube of RTV sealer for the gasket
of course, it goes without saying that prior to removing the housing, you have to drain the radiator first otherwise coolant will spill all over (even if you drain, some coolant from the engine block will spill so be prepared to collect it)
when refilling after you are done, you must purge the air out by running the engine COLD with the radiator cap removed and add more coolant as the air is being pushed out
Have you considered that the thermostat might not be the culprit? changing the thermostat after a while is a good thing to do anyway so that is not wasted. If changing the thermostat does not solve your problem, look at the heater core as the next possible culprit
As others have mentioned, it's at the top of the bottom radiator hose (directly beneath the distributor). Its got two bolts holding the housing on, which resembles the shape of a flange. I recently replaced mine when I swapped my engine. They're extremely cheap and easy to change. Just make sure you get the right one for your engine - My thermostat had a rubber o-ring type gasket that came included in the packaging.
hungt1999 is rite if your not getting any heat in the car then its probaly the heater core the thermostat manily deals with keeping a constant temperature reading in the engine by allowing coolant to flow in when the temperature goes above normal operating temperature.
when u buy put the t stat in align the jiggle pin with the top stud and torque the nuts to 82 inch lbs. then follow hungt1999's steps for purging system of air
As others have mentioned, it's at the top of the bottom radiator hose (directly beneath the distributor). Its got two bolts holding the housing on, which resembles the shape of a flange. I recently replaced mine when I swapped my engine. They're extremely cheap and easy to change. Just make sure you get the right one for your engine - My thermostat had a rubber o-ring type gasket that came included in the packaging.
Is it necessary to remove the distributor or can you work around it?
Also, I am pretty sure its just the T-stat and not the heater core. The engine temp gage always reads low (almost bottomed out) while running. The temperature will reach about mid way between center and cold when you are in traffic or idleing for a while.
And for the gasket replacement, I have a replacement fiber gasket. Is the RTV also needed?
No need to remove the distributor to change the Thermostat
now that you mentioned the gasket. I don't remember exactly if I used the gasket or the RTV sealer on this car as I have done this on several other cars in which I had to use RTV sealant
maybe can someone check what the Haynes manual says?
you mentioned the temperature gauge reads low most of the time. This means the thermostat is stuck open (unless you have a defective temp sender) which causes the engine to run less efficient, which should have resulted in worse fuel economy, was it the case?
Is it necessary to remove the distributor or can you work around it?
Also, I am pretty sure its just the T-stat and not the heater core. The engine temp gage always reads low (almost bottomed out) while running. The temperature will reach about mid way between center and cold when you are in traffic or idleing for a while.
And for the gasket replacement, I have a replacement fiber gasket. Is the RTV also needed?
Thanks for all the help,
MITAC
u just need the rubber ring gasket that fits around the t stat, no RTV. also i ended up having to remove the entire air filter cover assembly including the intake tube and air fliter housing to access the lower nut on the housing t stat. its not neccessary really to remove all that but u have more room to swing the torque wrench. make sure the housing is clean around the gasket area.
MITAC
Did you replace the thermostat yet? I'm getting ready to replace mine (as soon as the temps gets above 40F for more than an hour), and I'm wondering how much time it'll take. I've done some basic maintenance (oil, tuneup, starter, battery, etc), but I don't know how long a coolant flush and thermostat would take a relative novice like me.
You should have no problem with the T-stat. Just remember to drain about 2 quarts (I'm guessing) out of the radiator or else it will dump out into your engine compartment when the T-stat is removed. Fill radiator when t-stat is replaced.
Go with OEM parts (t-stat and O-ring) Tighten nuts evenly and do not over torque.
Also, there is a lot of ignition & sensor wires in the way. Work around these and be careful not to damage them.
That's about it. Should take you less than an hour.
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