I've got a sheered off crankshaft key wedged between the timing gear and the crank and I cannot get the timing gear off, mostly because there is barely any room behind the gear to use a conventional gear puller.
called a big ole flat head... jk i have no idea... but it might be worth a try?
__________________ Corolla Number TWO OLD: Corolla 1- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 225k Miles orig. motor, 129k trans. - TOTALED. NEW: Corolla 2- 96 4AFE, AE101 w/ 161k Miles on motor and trans.
try this link below ,shows a pic. of a steering wheel puller being used.
i had the same problem and made a puller at work. steering wheel puller is the best way to go.
If it's just the pulley then yeah, any puller will work. But you've got a broken key, so you MUST get the gear itself off to replace the key. In which case a puller by itself won't work.
My key broke when the bolt on my main pulley backed out and exited the engine bay doing 115mph at 6800rpm. Not fun. lol
The timing gear has a VERY small clearance with the crank AND it's got some kinda adhesive on it, so it's a bitch to take off!
I used copious amounts of WD40, a crowbar and two flathead screwdrivers trying to walk it out enough to use a conventional puller. Be careful you chip the flanged inside end of the timing gear (I did, but I used a dremel to clean it up so I don't risk shredding the timing belt), and be careful not to wear down the timing dot on the block. It's cast iron, so it can chip easily, but you'll need to line it up with the little groove on the gear to set back your cam timing when you're putting the belt back on.
If you so wish, you can turn the crank a few degrees so you don't risk chipping off the timing mark. Once you set engine at TDC before starting then you won't have a problem turning the crank.
When the timing gear was out, I used a 3/16" flathead screwdriver to chisel out the key. Remember the key has a hemispherical shape, so if you tap one end, the other end should raise off enough for you to use a vice grip and pull it out.
Tap the flanged end of the timing gear on a flat surface to flatten it out before reinstalling, or else it'll make an awful rattling noise at low rpms (yeah, I forgot to do that and had to take the whole thing back off to flatten it).
Put the key in, then slide the gear on, then set TDC on the crank, line up the cams on the timing marks, put on belt, set tensioner, put back on timing belt covers, pulley and belts etc.
The pulleys are not glued in, they just slide on. However after all the years of banging around and other wear problems, they can get seized to the shaft. A large screwdriver or two should be the solution, but it might take some careful hammer application too.
The pulleys are not glued in, they just slide on. However after all the years of banging around and other wear problems, they can get seized to the shaft. A large screwdriver or two should be the solution, but it might take some careful hammer application too.
-SP
Quote:
Originally Posted by seek007
I've got a sheered off crankshaft key wedged between the timing gear and the crank and I cannot get the timing gear off, mostly because there is barely any room behind the gear to use a conventional gear puller.
Cool, thanks, I'm gonna try that out as soon as the weather breaks. My neighbor told me he had this problem once and custom made a gear puller out of L channel steal, if I can't get it said he might weld me up somethin
Cutting the gear off the crank is an impossible adventure without heating up the crank and potentially destroying it in the process as well.
I had this issue on my 20v, I bought a cheap steering wheel puller and ground down the two hooks that went behind to fit in. Was 10 bucks and Ill never have the issue again.
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20v, 6 spd lsd
Boost, may you RIP.
How about cutting a piece of the old timing belt so it wraps around the diameter of the timing gear,then clamping a radiator clamp over the belt (real tight). Then try using the puller by hooking behind the clamp and belt. .................. ITS WORTH A TRY..........let me know how dumb this idea is if doesn't work. lol
^^^^ Naw, the force required to pull it will simply cause that contraption to slide right off.
The issue really isn't the puller or the gear itself, but rather the clearance required to get all three ends of the clamp behind the gear because of the contours of the block around the gear. You need a puller with straight, thin lengths on the hooks.
At best, with a standard puller even if u walk it out a half inch with the screwdrivers (which takes considerable work, mind you) you can only fit two hooks in so it isn't very practical. You hafta get it out at least an inch, by which time you're almost done anyway.
If you're good with metal work or knows someone who is, you can have a custom puller made, but other that that, it's plain ol' brawn to get it out.
Hey, I just thought of another type of puller that would work in this problem. Use a bearing puller that has bolts holding the two halves together. Most of these also have threaded arms so you can attach a two bolt puller to it.
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