I'm no expert but it might just be that there is air or moisture in the clutch lines, which would require bleeding. Otherwise there's a good chance that it could be the clutch disc that needs replacing, but first there are a few simple things you can check. Start by checking the fluid level of the clutch master cylinder in your engine bay. It'll be located next to brake master cylinder (closest to the firewall). Then check the fluid level of the transmission by undoing the drain plug on the side and putting your finger in the hole. The fluid should be sitting just below the hole (make sure you do this on a perfectly flat surface by the way or the reading will be inaccurate).
I wouldn't take too much notice of the reverse gear, mine is a little stubborn at times too. It's been that way on all the cars I've owned. One of the quirks of owning a 5-speed, lol. The climate can make a difference to the way the gears change too. If it's freezing cold where you are then there's a possibility that there isn't a problem at all and it's just the temperature which is causing the gears to appear 'heavy'.
There could be other reasons such as the selector forks, clutch linkages etc, but I haven't had experience with those so don't want to go into detail in case I give you misinformation. There are bound to be other suggestions though. Good luck bro.
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Sometimes the cables can get gummy, and begin to seize up if the boots at the transmission tear and moisture gets in. Also the linkage levers on the transmission (pivot points for the cable ends to the shifter arm) can be lubricated with dry lithium or some light oil. Id disconnect the shifter cables and see how the cables look. At the same time lubricate the joints.
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As long as you do not hear grinding while shifting gears, I would not think there is any problem with the clutch. A little grinding while putting it in reverse can easily happen if you are rolling a bit, or if you are too quick stopping and immediately putting in reverse. Not a good thing to do, but not an indication of a problem either.
As for the cold weather, there is definitely a noticeable difference if the car has been sitting for a couple of hours in -10 degrees Celsius. Go below -15 and you can still feel it a bit even while driving with the car warmed up. Went on a ski trip once, friggin -25 Celsius and both the clutch and gear lever felt heavier than normal.
thanks pal. Its not beacuse of the cold... here its summer now and we have temperatures over 45º celcius!!!! Winters are not cold either... some day we can have -5ºC as the coldest day...not more
Ill do this:
1- check the clutch fluid level
2- try to lubricate all the moving parts, both under the sear gaitor and also at the engine bay.
thanks pal. Its not beacuse of the cold... here its summer now and we have temperatures over 45º celcius!!!! Winters are not cold either... some day we can have -5ºC as the coldest day...not more
Haha, that rules out the temperature as a cause. I don't think I could handle 45ºC heats. It's summer here right now too and it's bad enough when the temperature gets to around 29ºC, LOL. The lowest it gets here in winter is around 2ºC first thing in the morning, which doesn't seem to affect the gearbox, but makes the engine perform a hell of a lot better .
All the best with diagnosing your problem dude, I'll keep an eye on this thread and have a think about any other possible causes.
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Not only check the clutch fluid level but what color is the fluid? If its anything less than clear change it! Moisture in hydraulic systems is BAD.
Linkages get seized up form corrosion and lack of lubrication, so that advice is great to follow too.
Last problem is you may be at the end of your clutches life. There also could be dumb problem like I once had with a damper spring falling out of the disk. Disengagement was almost impossible with that spring bouncing around!
maybe you should post this in a "common problems and solutions" thread...
I took the car to the Official Service to hear another oppinion (and also, to check how much sincere those people are
- the clucth fluid level was ok
- the clutch fluid was in perfect conditions
- the clutch disc was in mint conditions (the car has only got 80.000Kms, less than 50.000 miles)
-the clutch fluid lines were also in mint conditions, no moisture, leaks or anything)
- the selectro travel was correctly lubricated.
So..
The repair took less than a minute, and 100% FREE OF CHARGE
SOLUTION: They regulated the clutch cable!!! They told me in 7th. gens Corollas the clutch pedal must have -when pressing it- a shot traver where "nothing happends", after that short travel, the clutch begings to work normaly.
The problem is that the clutch cabe was too tigth, that caused the gears to be hard to engage.
100% free, 1 min work, and is like brand new...REALLY, LIKE NEW!!!!
Clutch cable?? The clutch on 7th gen is operated by hydraulic pressure. You've checked the fluid yourself didn't you? What am I missing here? Or do you mean the pushrod that goes to the master cylinder?
Clutch cable?? The clutch on 7th gen is operated by hydraulic pressure. You've checked the fluid yourself didn't you? What am I missing here? Or do you mean the pushrod that goes to the master cylinder?
MY MISTAKE! Exactly as Grandaf1 say... in the translation of technical issues and parts from spanish to english, I commited a mistake.
What I meant is the pushrod that goes to the master cylinder... exactly!
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