I searched and found a few threads that were some what similar but could not find an answer. Here are the specs on my car ;
95 corolla dx
1.8
Auto
230k miles
Just changed :
Plugs
Plug Wires
PVC
Previous owner did :
Timing belt
water pump
reg oil and tranny fluid changes
When I am slowing to a stop at a stoplight or red light, the car begins to almost buck and stutter/stall to the point that it feels like its going to die. It has actually died a few times.
What can be causing this?
I have a new IACV and passenger front motor mount that I will be installing on Saturday but was unsure what could be causing this? Not only is it embarrassing , I am also preparing to sell this car and cannot sell it doing this. Thanks!
Last edited by redlobster; 02-25-2010 at 09:48 PM.
you should have replaced the distributor cap/rotor too, that might be the problem. or it could be anything from a bad ground wire to camshaft position sensor or even a crank sensor or etc.....
you should have replaced the distributor cap/rotor too, that might be the problem. or it could be anything from a bad ground wire to camshaft position sensor or even a crank sensor or etc.....
Ill probably do the cap and rotor saturday.
Trying not to just throw parts at this car though. Didnt know if this was a common toyota or corolla problem
Last edited by redlobster; 02-25-2010 at 09:48 PM.
Tune consists of : Plugs, Wireset, PCV Valve,Fuel Filte, Distributor cap/Rotor, and Air Filter. Also cleaning the throttle body, replacing most of the fluids etc... If you dont wanna have any problems with car then I suggest you do these.
Remember a car is only RELIABLE if you take care of it. Good Luck!
Does it do this when it is warm? If it does it could be your TCC (Torque Convertor Clutch) It is a solenoid type device that is used for better mileage (especially on the highway). When it starts to fail or fails all together, when you go to slow down, it will not unlock, which will cause the bucking you described (it is like driving a manual transmission car, and forgetting to let out the clutch). There is a way to check if it is working, by checking the electrics and making sure they are in spec with what is normal. From what you described, this may be your problem. Good luck
The Following User Says Thank You to zythr For This Useful Post:
Does it do this when it is warm? If it does it could be your TCC (Torque Convertor Clutch) It is a solenoid type device that is used for better mileage (especially on the highway). When it starts to fail or fails all together, when you go to slow down, it will not unlock, which will cause the bucking you described (it is like driving a manual transmission car, and forgetting to let out the clutch). There is a way to check if it is working, by checking the electrics and making sure they are in spec with what is normal. From what you described, this may be your problem. Good luck
yes it does it when it is warm. Is this a replaceable part or serviced by replacing the tranny?
Yes this part is replaceable. It can even be done with the tranny still installed in the vehicle. If you can get a hold of a service manual, it should have more information. My understanding of it, is it is a solenoid, just like the ones used to control shifting.
Yes this part is replaceable. It can even be done with the tranny still installed in the vehicle. If you can get a hold of a service manual, it should have more information. My understanding of it, is it is a solenoid, just like the ones used to control shifting.
Is the car idling where it should be when the car is warmed up and parked or does it seem like the car is lagging a bit under acceleration? Your ignition timing could be a bit off and it's a free fix. Just mark your distributor cap and block with a marker and loosen the 2 bolts on the distributor and twist it clockwise to advance the timing a bit, counter clockwise to retard the timing. That will bring the idle up slightly but also improve performance a bit as well. Just adjust it in small increments and take it around the block and see if there is any improvements, it might take a few tries to get it where you want it.
look
Yes, that looks like the little bugger, lol. Just to be sure, if you go with Autozone, ask them. The part is not expensive, but the labor to do it can be.
look
Yes, that looks like the little bugger, lol. Just to be sure, if you go with Autozone, ask them. The part is not expensive, but the labor to do it can be.
Ill try to find a write up or something online, I guess in comparison to a new tranny the parts not expensive but 100+ dollars to me is a lot as I have a tight budget.
Found a great write up on the TCC. Sounds almost like what mine is doing, the only question is where is it to unplug to test?? If anyone can post a pic or location that would be awesome!
Heres the main meat of the info. http://www.misterfixit.com/tccstory.htm
Here is a little story about a customer who came into our shop with a complaint of her car stalling. The car was a late eighties model Buick with four cylinder, automatic, and throttle body fuel injection. Two of our young tune up techs, who shall remain nameless, had a go at solving this ladies problems. At first the stalling problem would not show up but the car was scoped and a fault code check showed no fault codes. A minor tune up was recomended along with an injector flush and cleaning of the I.A.C. motor, which controls idle speed and can become contaminated with carbon. After these repairs and much money spent the customer picked up her car only to return in a few days with the same stalling complaint.
Again a fault code check showed "no codes" and the car would not stall on a road test. This time the car got a rebuilt computer and road testing again showed no stalling. To shorten this sad tale, the customer, by the way was going around the bend at this point and who could blame her. The customer was given a loaner vehicle and I was asked to drive the car home one night to see if it would stall. I only live about ten or fifteen minutes from work so guess what?? again no stalling. The problem finally showed up with myself and the service manager going on an extensive drive wich lasted about thirty minutes at various speeds, we were almost back to our shop and thinking this customer was crazy when the car not only stalled but on start up stalled again and could not be moved. After cooling down for about five or ten minutes the car started and ran fine all the way back to our shop.
The cause of this problem has probably been already diagnosed by any tech reading this, a little thing called the T.C.C. solenoid caused this ladies problems. A T.C.C. is in plain english a solenoid that locks up the torque converter in your transmission to give you better gas mileage and is found on most cars to-day. This lock up must occur with the car fully warmed up and at higher cruising speeds or stalling will occur. The T.C.C. is located in your transaxle and has a wiring connector in plain view and can be disconnected and the car run like this without causing any problems other than a little higher fuel consumption for a few days and if your stalling problem disappears voila problem located.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
