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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 02-26-2010, 12:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation DIY Coolant Flush & Maintenance Corolla 93 - 97

This DIY is for replacing the radiator hoses , thermostat and flushing your coolant . Especially if your hoses been on you car for at least 5 yrs and you haven't flushed your system out or you haven't been using proper coolant and using water . Plus check your heater hoses to .





First you should remove the distributor cap so that you can have more room to get to the thermostat . You do not have to remove the wires .






After that then you can remove the air filter box completely . While you have this off it's best that you clean the inside before putting this air filter box back on .




Then you put a oil pan under the radiator drain plug and then unscrew the plug and let the radiator coolant drain into the pan .




Then remove the pan, Do not close the drain plug yet . Now if you weren't gonna replace the hoses or thermostat then you would put your water hose in the radiator and start your car and put the heat on inside the car and flush the whole system out until you see clear water flowing out the drain plug . The reason you have the car running is so that the thermostat can open up and the reason you have the heater on is so that the heater core is opened up and you can flush the heater core at the same time . Once you see clear water draining then shut your vehicle off and your hose and just let the rest of the water run out completely . Then see below on how to fill up your radiator .







Now with your pliers you then remove the hose clamps around the upper and lower hoses . Some people might have the one's with the screw driver then you would unscrew them . Some people replace the OEM hose clamps to the screw one's and some people reuse the OEM clamps . In this case I will reuse the OEM clamps cause there not rusted and they look fairly new .







To get to the bottom hose clamp for the lower hose you have to remove the water shield first . It's like three bolts holding it . You do not have to remove it completely just unbolt it enough to see the bottom hose clamp .




Then you can remove the thermostat housing . First you have to unplug the temperature switch wire . Then with a 10mm you can remove the two nuts . Be careful don't lose these nuts .





Once you remove the thermostat housing it is important to remember how the thermostat sits . The deep part goes inside the block . You can reuse the rubber gasket for your new thermostat but inspect first . As long as the gasket isn't pinched or cracked you can reuse it . That's why when they sell you the new thermostat it doesn't come with the gasket .





Since you remove the hoses now you can put your water hose in the upper part and flush out the block . Do not run your car for this . Flush until you see clear water coming out of the bottom of the block . Then of course you flush out your radiator . Try not to wet your distributor since the cap is off and the inside will be exposed .





Then with your mini wire brush you can get any corrosion that is around the thermostat housing and around the all the areas that the hoses will be replaced .





Some people don't and you really don't have to but I put just a tiny bit of water pump/thermostat silicone only on the housing part . Make sure the thermostat area is dry before putting your housing back on . Very important when you tighten the nut for the housing that you DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN . This is only hand tight . The stud will break very easily if you over tighten .






Then with a pack of hose grease that they sell in the auto parts store you put some on the inside of the hoses you are replacing . This I recommend because the next time you replace your radiator hose or ever have to take it off to work on something else it will be so much easier to remove your hoses and your hoses will not stick around the areas you clamp . Then you can put your distributor cap back on and air filter box .




I use water wetter because you can use this in any type of climate or vehicle and in the summer when you use your A/C or if you run hotter spark plugs in your car this product is awesome . This is product is used for all water cooled vehicles . This will make your car run up to 20% cooler , improves heat transfer and lubricates your water pump seals and reduces rust . Can be used with all antifreeze coolants .




Then with in a few days of driving your vehicle check the over flow to see if you need to add any more coolant in your over flow tank . Now you are ready for long distance driving with out over heating or hoses bursting .



More DIY : http://rinconrolla98.blogspot.com





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Old 03-01-2010, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice post
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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nice.
I was thinking of changing the radiator in couple of weeks. This comes handy.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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well put together
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry I have to be the naysayer but your technique has a problem. The RIGHT way to flush a cooling system is a REVERSE FLUSH. Putting water in the top of the rad doesnt accomplish that. You also didnt mention using any cleaners which are necessary to remove oils, scale and other deposits.

The right way to flush is using a tap in the outlet of the heater core and hooking your hose to that. The forces water in the opposite direction of flow and forces stuck deposits out of the system instead of pushing them deeper where they can remain stuck and clog coolant passages, especially the heater core.

Also a reminder about water wetter. DO NOT USE if you live in a climate where the temp goes below freezing. While this product is a WONDERFUL heat transfer agent, it has NO antifreeze properties. It also lacks other additives to lube the water pump seal and prevent corrosion that commercial antifreeze/coolant products have.

-SP
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
Sorry I have to be the naysayer but your technique has a problem. The RIGHT way to flush a cooling system is a REVERSE FLUSH. Putting water in the top of the rad doesnt accomplish that. You also didnt mention using any cleaners which are necessary to remove oils, scale and other deposits.

The right way to flush is using a tap in the outlet of the heater core and hooking your hose to that. The forces water in the opposite direction of flow and forces stuck deposits out of the system instead of pushing them deeper where they can remain stuck and clog coolant passages, especially the heater core.

Also a reminder about water wetter. DO NOT USE if you live in a climate where the temp goes below freezing. While this product is a WONDERFUL heat transfer agent, it has NO antifreeze properties. It also lacks other additives to lube the water pump seal and prevent corrosion that commercial antifreeze/coolant products have.

-SP

Ok bro your the expert , Thanks for the bump
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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where can i get that water wetter? thanks for the advices!
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photo_wed View Post
where can i get that water wetter? thanks for the advices!

I got mine from Auto Zone but I'm sure any auto parts store should have it
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Old 03-21-2010, 11:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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DONT use water wetter in your daily driver. I gave good reason previously.

-SP
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Old 03-22-2010, 12:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I would also be hesitant about the water wetter. You don't want the engine to run too cool or the engine won't run at peak efficiency. This is the reason for having a thermostat in the first place. If you really wanted a cooler-running engine you could just swap out the thermostat with one that opens earlier, say 170* F instead of the typical 185-190*.

Speedy, any more info on this "reverse flush" thing? It seems to me if you had the water going in through the heater core outlet, the water wouldn't reach and flush out all areas of the cooling system. At least if you put it in the upper radiator hose (the way I've always done it), the water will reach all areas of the cooling system via gravity.

Also, what about draining the block of coolant and later draining the excess flush water out of the block? I don't have my Haynes handy, but my Integra has a large block drain bolt on the front of the block, behind the exhaust header. It's necessary to remove the bolt to drain the coolant out of the block, and later the hose water you flushed the system with. Otherwise you only drain half the coolant, or you end up with hose water sitting in your block, which is NOT a good idea (read: corrosion!).

I always mix Prestone green coolant 50/50 with distilled water to ensure there aren't any impurities in the cooling system. My Integra has been on its current radiator for 6 years and it still looks clean as a whistle inside (clear green coolant color). Our Corolla's radiator is pretty nasty inside, but I have a new one sitting in the garage, ready to go in.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Water wetter wont make your engine run any cooler than the thermostat allows. It DOES increase the efficiency of heat transfer so it can be helpful in cases where the engine is being run for long periods at heavy loads. (Like... Racing!)

The reason for reverse flushing is to force out deposits and grunge that have entered the cooling system and gotten in a fixed position for one reason or another, like large deposits getting stuck in the small passages of a heater core. If you dont reverse the direction of flow those particles will be forced deeper and can make blockages happen easier. Dont forget water does go in both directions with a flushing "T."

Different brands have different fittings. I havent seen any block drains crawling under my Toyota, but if you find some opening them to aid flushing is a good idea.

I pull the lower hose from the radiator and most of the tap water siphons out. The little bit left can be handled by the additives in the anti-freeze.

I'm with you on the last paragraph. Anything I have cleaned has stayed clean. I have no idea what people do to screw up coolant.

-SP
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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there is a block drain, toyota usually has them on the exhaust side of the 4 cylinders from what i've seen. its just an odd bolt head sticking out and looks like a 14mm.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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14mm would be nice. Most Hondas have some crazy huge bolt with a 40mm thread and a 21mm hex head size or something! Now if I could just keep the coolant from GUSHING out when I remove that bolt...
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I plan on doing this this weekend. Can I just drain from the rad and eng. block, close em up and fill with distilled water? After that, I'd run the car with the rad cap off and heater on for a few minutes. Then I'd drain and fill with coolant. Good way to do it?
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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just drain and fill with new coolant, no need for the middle step.
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