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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 03-12-2010, 10:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation DIY Front Wheel Bearing Corolla 93 - 97

This DIY is of the front wheel bearing , These year vehicles do not have a HUB sealed bearing they have a bearing only and the HUB is sold seperatly only if needed . These must be pressed on and off .





First make sure you secure your rear tire and you use jack stands . Then once you jack up the vehicle you can start removing the tire and wheel .





Once the tire is off then you remove the cotter pin that holds the CV shaft through the bearing and the nut lock .



There are many ways you can remove the CV shaft nut . Since I was working alone I put the tire back on and lowered the car and then with my torque wrench I removed it . you can use a air gun , you can have someone step on the brake , You can do one side at a time but in this case I was doing both sides .



Then I removed the bolt that holds the brake line .



Then I removed my brake caliper and set it some where so it doesn't interfere or stretch the brake line .



Then I removed the break caliper bracket or the torque plate as the book calls it . Some people remove the whole bracket instead of the caliper but since I'm not in a rush I removed it in this order .



Then I ONLY loosen the nut on the bottom strut .



Then I ONLY loosen the top nut on the strut .





Then I removed the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the nut for the tie rod .



[img]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_
Q2B2pa6pitU/S5gUf8tTGRI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/nC5MaiCIcH8/s320/bearings+015.jpg[/img]

Then you remove the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the ball joint nut . The reason I say to loosen only these nuts cause you still have to remove the strut .



Once you have everything loosened up then you can put something on the bottom of the strut and lower the vehicle so that it presses the spring smaller . Then with your spring compressor you can put it on . this way makes it easier then having to compress the spring you have some added help here . Once you have your spring compressor secure then you can raise the vehicle . Remove the strut bolts and nuts .







Then you can gently start tapping out your tie rod , your bearing and your CV shaft .



Then there you have it the whole spindle and assembly . Ready to take it to a shop to have them press it on and off .



This is basically what you need a inner and outer seal and the front bearing if your hub is damaged then you have to purchase that .



The red arrow is the hub part and the yellow arrow is the bearing and the blue arrow is the outer seal .



The yellow arrows show the hub and the inner seal .







The first two pictures are what it should look like when you have the new bearings and front and rear seal pressed in . Then you press in the hub and then this is what it looks like when it is completed .



Then you put everything back together . Before you put your tire back on check and recheck all your bolts , nuts , cotter pins .



Then put your tire on lower your vehicle check and recheck your lug nuts .

More DIY http://rinconrolla98.blogspot.com



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Last edited by RinconRolla98; 03-12-2010 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hammering on threaded metal parts to free them is a bad idea if you intend to use those parts over again.

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Old 03-13-2010, 02:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
Hammering on threaded metal parts to free them is a bad idea if you intend to use those parts over again.

-SP


If you would have read correctly it says TAP not hammering , There is a difference . TAPPING will do nothing you can use a lead or brass hammer if you arent mechanically smart . Thanks for tip bub
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Old 03-13-2010, 05:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I just did this about a month ago, I agree this is a great DIY guide.
One thing I didn't do was loosen the top strut nut, what is the reason for doing this?
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlinerev View Post
I just did this about a month ago, I agree this is a great DIY guide.
One thing I didn't do was loosen the top strut nut, what is the reason for doing this?

I removed the strut so that I have room to work with some people don't and some people do it's all how you work on your vehicle .
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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except you should remove the 3 nuts to drop the strut assembly, not the single nut in the middle, the spring can shoot the assembly apart.
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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except you should remove the 3 nuts to drop the strut assembly, not the single nut in the middle, the spring can shoot the assembly apart.

Good point , what I did was lower the car to give it pressure then I slowly raised it up so that the spring wouldnt bounce , or you can use spring compressor
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Did mine at school. It was easy when you have all the tools and a hydraulic press.
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What was axle nut torgue specifications to tighten?
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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when i do my bearings i take the whole strut assembly out including the ball joint. 2 nuts and one 17MM bolt on the bottom. that way i don't need to do alignment once i get it all back in. it might cost you more when you take it to a machine shop to press them though(extra crap to move around the press) but now that i have my own press and made my own "specialized" tools for it, life is easy. and i'm willing to do it for my friends too.

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