I got my rims today...

[Sine Deviance]

I went with these:



I'll get some pics of them on the car later, I just had too much stuff to do today.

Anyways, once I paint the car black there's a few ways I can paint the wheels. Here's some variations:







I'm feeling the second option right now, but all black might be good too. What do you guys think?

[1jzdreamer]

For some reason im liking the first option. But otherwise I would go with the last option in a gloss black. Too many people on wheels with a polished lip imo (around here anyway)

[Chunky_rolla]

i like the second one

[Sine Deviance]

All black would definitely be the easiest because the center caps pop out and I'd only need to mask off the tires. I think it'd work better with gloss black paint, too. The 'murder' look.

Then again, the 'machined' lip would contrast the gloss black paint and spokes nicely. I could always paint the lip a totally different color, too. Like a dark metallic blue. I always liked black and blue.

EDIT: Here's what I was talking about with throwing a little color/variation into the mix.







Bronze-ish:


Gunmetal:

[PhatRoyale]

black with blue lip since your wagon's blue.

[Sine Deviance]

Originally Posted by PhatRoyale

black with blue lip since your wagon's blue.

My wagon is actually green, and soon to be gloss black. But blue goes well with black, so maybe.

[Kiwi-Corolla]

I like them how they are (such as in the first photo you posted). Coloured wheels are tacky in my opinion.

[stanmalu]

second one for sure

[modernage]

matte black...or bronze would be kinda cool.

[GTChink]

first option or all black. May I ask what your plans are for painting the car, as in the process? I am debating on painting mine black or blue..getting tired of the gold, and I think I am going to go for the $50 rolled on paint job

[Sine Deviance]

Finally got some pics of the Wagon with the new shoes. I also pulled the bumper off and knocked the pole dent out, and when I put it back on I lined it up a lot better than it was before, so now it doesn't look nearly as ghetto. Bodywork and possibly paint are next, stay tuned.

Originally Posted by GT*****

first option or all black. May I ask what your plans are for painting the car, as in the process? I am debating on painting mine black or blue..getting tired of the gold, and I think I am going to go for the $50 rolled on paint job

Yeah, if/when I paint the car I'm probably gonna do the same thing, except I'm going to use Interlux Brightside Topside paint in Black instead of Rustoleum Gloss Black. The drawbacks to the roller method are that it's a lot of work and there are no real metallics or pearls, however methods are being developed to get a good-looking metallic or pearl finish with Rustoleum and Brightside. Brightside is more expensive (about twice the cost of Rustoleum) but it is much better for lots of reasons.

First, it's a polyurethane, whereas Rustoleum is enamel (polyurethane is ALWAYS a better choice for autobody panels.) Second, Brightside requires less coats, 4 or 5 coats and you're done as opposed to Rustoleum which needs 8-10 and possibly even 12 coats, meaning much less work. You still only have to wetsand after every two coats The reasoning behind less coats is because you don't need to thin Brightside out nearly as much as Rustoleum to get an even coat with little/no orange peel. Third, unlike Rustoleum, Brightside has UV inhibitors and extra chemical resistances because it's made for boats (which tend to spend lots of time in the sun and/or dirty polluted water) and it's just as strong as Rustoleum when it comes to resisting scratches and chipping.

Fourth, a Brightside paint job has a much longer life expectancy than Rustoleum (5-10 years, whereas with Rustoleum it's around 3-5 years.) The fifth reason is that Brightside is actually made for vehicles (boats) unlike Rustoleum, and it is actually meant to be rolled on, this is the STANDARD application process. And finally, Brightside's Black only comes in Black (no gloss, satin, semi-gloss or matte variants) but depending on how you prep the body and work the paint, it can polish out to a mirror reflection. If you're wanting a satin/semi-gloss/matte finish I'd go with Rustoleum. I'm not kidding about the mirror reflection by the way; I've seen pictures of body panels a guy in Australia painted with Brightside Black cut 10% with Mineral Spirits and a little bit of Penetrol, and it's so mirror-like you could shave off of it with confidence. Proof:







Those are panels from the same car. Note that the third panel was just after the last coat of Brightside and before wetsanding or polishing of any kind. Brightside is a naturally glossy paint and if you're able to keep orange peel down it can come out looking really amazing without any extra steps. Pretty crazy, isn't it? The threads with all the details are here, I suggest you start reading:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1 <-- Part I

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...=0#Post2655425 <-- Part II

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...=0#Post3493382 <--Part III

Start at Part I if you like, but Parts II and III have most of the good Brightside info. Part I is mostly the Rustoleum method, but it is still good reading considering that the application methods are basically the same between the two. The member that painted the car shown in the pics above is called Aussie Driver, and I'd definitely look up his posts as he's one of the leading authorities on the Brightside method right now. You should also check out a member called Marq, he's the main source of Brightside info. He also has a page dedicated to the method here:

http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page...urethane+Paint

Good luck! This method will be a lot of work for both of us, but with the money we save it will be totally worth it. That's basically what this is, anyways; trading our time for the money we would have spent on a $2500 two-stage urethane job.