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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 04-13-2010, 02:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Thumbs up busted n broke

In the past month my car had developed a noise in the belt area. I was leaving a convocation ceremony at my school last Wednesday when I heard a loud "pop" like something broke under my car. I saw my check engine light come on and suddenly I had no power. All this was accompanied by a horrible metal clanking noise. I limped it to a parking lot until I could get a chance to put it up and figure out what broke.

I decided this was an opportunity to fix other stuff because I suspected the worst; a spun bearing. This whole ordeal sounded very similar to when my Storm spun a rod bearing. Fast forward to Sunday when I finally pulled the engine. It turns out the only thing that broke was the timing belt tensioner pulley. It fragged my timing cover too so now I need a new one.

I also pulled the clutch and I am surprised that thing held any torque. I will also use this opportunity to replace the clutch/flywheel and piston rings since I was knocking under loads. I'm not sure how much I really want to spend to rebuild this motor.

246,xxx miles when this happened. I think it's awesome that the tensioner pulley failed before anything else in the engine. That is all. You may return to reading posts with a purpose.
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I guess thats the upside about non interference engines... 30 bucks and your back on the road.
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Good to hear that it was something simple and relatively inexpensive .
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Anyone else who reads this thread...

Replace your tensioner when you replace your belt! They dont last forever.

Infinity- Rings have NOTHING to do with knocking. If you had spark knock its because your ignition timing was not set properly. Occasionally heavy deposits on the piston crown can cause this too, but usually when that happens the engine has become a mosquito fogger.

Do a good job on your rebuild!

-SP
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Old 04-17-2010, 11:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
correction: I hate Isuzus
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
Infinity- Rings have NOTHING to do with knocking. If you had spark knock its because your ignition timing was not set properly. Occasionally heavy deposits on the piston crown can cause this too, but usually when that happens the engine has become a mosquito fogger.

Do a good job on your rebuild!

-SP
cylinder #1 tested 25% lower than the rest on a dry test; a wet test brought it up to almost normal

knocking under load indicates worn compression rings

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
Replace your tensioner when you replace your belt! They dont last forever.
absolutely! they're cheap and right there.
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I pulled my head today. Everything underneath looked "okay" except for one of my #1 combustion chamber exhaust valves. It appears the detonation has taken its toll. It isn't cracked but it does look damaged. I'll probably leave it in because honestly this motor doesn't mean that much to me.

As I rotated the block upside down to pull my rod caps AT LEAST two tiny ball bearings fell out. My question now is does anyone know what these go to?
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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There is nothing internal that has ball bearings. Are you sure they didnt come from your failed tensioner?

If you are going through this much work to change rings, you might as well freshen up the head too. You can probably get away with replacing the damaged valve, but put some new valve stem seals in while you're at it.

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Old 04-19-2010, 12:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
correction: I hate Isuzus
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
There is nothing internal that has ball bearings. Are you sure they didnt come from your failed tensioner?
I can't believe I didn't think of that. You are awesome!
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Would anyone trust a heli-coil in a flywheel bolt hole in the crankshaft?
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ouch! I wouldnt do it, but by the book it should be safe.

To keep from changing the crank, I would tap the hole to use the next slightly larger USF size bolt, IF you can get good threads on it. If not theres still room for that helicoil.

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Old 05-10-2010, 08:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Question Plz Halp!!!!!!!

After all this time I finally have everything back together but I cannot get the engine properly timed. I know for a fact that I am getting spark and fuel. With that said....

The directions I've gone off are from a GM shop manual for a '94 and my Prizm is a '96. I do not have the 2nd book which has the procedure for setting the timing. The installation/timing marks on the drive gear for the exhaust cam don't match pictures in my manual (the cam pulley pin is at a different location in reference to the two marks.) There is one mark each on the back of both cam gears which I assume are installation marks. I lined up these marks when installing/engaging both camshafts. The other marks on the front which were not lined up at this time are timing marks right?

The second issue comes in when trying to line up the marks on the crankshaft timing gear and oil pump body. There isn't one single notch on the timing gear to line up. Instead there is a flat surface which spans across a few of the gear teeth.

My questions are:
  1. Where do the TIMING marks on the cams point when trying to time the cams to the crank?
  2. Instead of using the timing gear to position the crankshaft, where should I point the notch on the crankshaft pulley? 0°, 5°, 10°, etc...
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Also... the cam sprocket has two ways to install on the cam. One hole has paint and the other one doesn't. Which way does the sprocket go on, knock pin through the hole with paint or the other hole. FWIW the hole with paint is marked K and the other hole is marked A.
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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BUMP

anyone???
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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XXX

Thanks guys!!!!

I got it running but the running is a little rough. It could be from not having other accessory belts hooked up yet. I have the crank set at 10° BTDC. It seems that last time I had it set at 0° but it wouldn't start. I know the ECU automatically retards the ignition timing to 10° but I can't figure out if I set the crank at 10° or 0°. I'll know more later on when I get back out to the car.
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:34 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Cool da shizzzzzzzzzzzzzz

The engine runs smoother than I ever remember. This is awesome. I had a mishap with a rubber coolant cap and ended up losing a good bit on the ground but thankfully I was only a block from my house when the thing popped off. I had extras from my Storm project. There are no other visible leaks after fixing this.

65 miles and so far, so good. DAMN this thing is quiet! The timing belt gets noisy around 3000 rpms so I have to loosen it a little. No big deal after what I just went though.

I replaced: clutch/pp/throwout bearing, water pump, oil pan gasket, rod bearings, piston rings, valve cover gasket, head gasket, timing belt tensioner, timing belt, exhaust front pipe gasket and fluids @ 246,xxx miles.
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